ground vs rust

1mouse3 · Nov 25, 2020

Im going to run my ground through the frame but unsure of what is best to keep it good. I do know need to clean off for ground points but what schmoo would be best to keep rust at bay on the bare spot of the frame for this task? Do I want to drill and tap the frame or would a through bolt suffice?

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chillman88 · Nov 25, 2020

Well... I'm an overkill kind of person. I'd drill and tap, run the bolt through, then put a nut on the inside as a lock nut.

As far as schmoo... A nice thick coat of silicone grease would probably be best. Up here the truck garages coat the battery terminals with regular grease. Anything to keep the water off is better than nothing.

Exhumis · Nov 25, 2020

That's what I'd do. Spray on electrical tape?

david85 · Nov 25, 2020

If you really want to go overboard, use this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-CK-CP8TB-COMPOUND/dp/B002KKW27M

It's expensive but what we use in heavy industry for safety grounds on junction boxes and high voltage equipment.

Alternatively, any copper anti-seize grease will help prevent rust. But realistically, that cross member is not staying clean and pretty for long.

My only concern is to double check that your power steering cooler loop won't interfere with that location.

1mouse3 · Nov 25, 2020

Exhumis said:
Spray on electrical tape?

I have brush on electrical tape that yes dose need to be put on the cable end.

david85 said:
But realistically, that cross member is not staying clean and pretty for long.

Dont care if it stays clean for long, think some mud and oil will add well to the 3d snow camo paint job Iv started on the frame. I am just trying to get rid of rust and pretty only happened because of a random selection of paint colors.

david85 said:
My only concern is to double check that your power steering cooler loop won't interfere with that location.

unsure at the moment if a cooler is need since have around a 2.5 gal reservoir that may add enough fuild mass to keep heat low. If I find the reservoir tank gets hot will add one of these between bumper and radiator.

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david85 said:
If you really want to go overboard, use this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-CK-CP8TB-COMPOUND/dp/B002KKW27M

will keep that in mind as a option if cheaper one dose not pan out like copper anti-seize. How well dose the copper anti-seize work out on electrical conections?

Clb · Nov 25, 2020

+1 on a nonox compound like nolox!

Kalmanto · Nov 25, 2020

david85 said:
If you really want to go overboard, use this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-CK-CP8TB-COMPOUND/dp/B002KKW27M

.

Thats not going overboard at all. Any connection will last a lot longer and not heatup.

1mouse3 · Nov 25, 2020

Clb said:
+1 on a nonox compound like nolox!

Kalmanto said:
Thats not going overboard at all. Any connection will last a lot longer and not heatup.

So the consensus is that I should ultimately get the CP8TB compound but will get the noalox for now since cheap.

Clb · Nov 25, 2020

Anything to seal, conduct flow, and just like anitseize get everywhere.
I have not used the cp8tb stuff but and if you need that much product ok fine.

1mouse3 · Nov 26, 2020

looking at specs I see the noalox is zinc with aluminum oxide, where if im correct aluminum and steel dont get along and could cause corroshion over time. So im unsure on this one for permanent aplication.

https://www.idealind.com/shop/noalox.html#description

Where in the specs for this one, it is a grease that contains copper and zinc with it saying "rust and corrosion inhibitors". So would think this one is more appropriate for permanent aplication between steel and tin plated copper trmanals.

https://www.elliottelectric.com/P/Item/TAB/CP8TB/

edit:Its not that I need that much product at the moment but since I do a lot of electical work on vehicles and machines, it would come in handdy else where. Say for example would be the wiring nightmare of some the trailers I am asked to fix, the grounds are rarlly in good shape.

chillman88 · Nov 26, 2020

1mouse3 said:
Its not that I need that much product at the moment but since I do a lot of electical work on vehicles and machines, it would come in handdy else where. Say for example would be the wiring nightmare of some the trailers I am asked to fix, the grounds are rarlly in good shape.

That's why I'm considering buying some too. Would be a great thing to have on hand. I'm going have to build some cables for the winch on my trailer soon and this would be perfect.

Clb · Nov 26, 2020

I think the copper product is superior.
Fwiw
Noalox is used all day long on residential pannels, a lot of bus bars are metal clad.

I have been using it for at least a decade on the harley that sees rain and marine environments.

Never seen any corrosion.
But as in my company motto "you only get one chance to do it right the first time"...

Knuckledragger · Nov 26, 2020

Spending plenty of money to solve a minor problem. If you figure to be working on the bits frequently, just use dielectric grease. If it is permanent, play that game and paint it. If you really want to go overboard, paint it twice.

RSchanz · Nov 28, 2020

Just curious, why are you mounting the batteries there?

1mouse3 · Nov 28, 2020

RSchanz said:
Just curious, why are you mounting the batteries there?

Because the power steering reservoir for the saginaw is going where one would be and cooling reservoir is going where the other is. Yes could had gone another route to crame more in the engine bay but would rather have everthing easy to access for now. Also looking to the future where I plan to run parallel hx35 turbos, that is still a long way off till I pick that ball back up.

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ground vs rust

1mouse3

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chillman88

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Exhumis

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david85

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1mouse3

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Clb

Another old truck

Kalmanto

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1mouse3

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Clb

Another old truck

1mouse3

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chillman88

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Clb

Another old truck

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blowing chunks and grabbing porcelain

RSchanz

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