7.3 Cold Starting

Booyah45828

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Both alternator and starter look newer. And as others have pointed out, that's the stock type alternator. At 13.8 volts, I'd say it's fine so don't mess with it. I think you're dead battery issue is just not running enough.

Pushing down on the throttle helps with cold starts, good to see that you're doing that.

I love my pushbutton and glow plugs. Mine is wired up like farmer rock mentioned so the light comes on when the plugs are on. That way I know if the relay is on in case something goofy happens with your button or wiring.

The problem with a push button, and you'll likely find this out, is that some members report that the stock glow plugs don't tolerate a push button all that well. Some have said they're 6 volt plugs so that they heat up faster, I have no idea, but just be prepared to check/change plugs when using a push button.
 

MtnHaul

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Unless I read right past it, have you checked your battery cables and grounds? I had an intermittent issue that was all due to one bad ground. Easy fix.

The problem with a push button, and you'll likely find this out, is that some members report that the stock glow plugs don't tolerate a push button all that well. Some have said they're 6 volt plugs so that they heat up faster, I have no idea, but just be prepared to check/change plugs when using a push button.

I would have to completely disagree with this^^^^, no offense. If you install the proper Beru/Motorcraft plugs, all wiring is proper and complete, and you don't glow the plugs for unreasonable durations(I go 10-12 seconds) you should have ZERO glow plug issues. The advantages of the push button, in my opinion, are that your glow plugs should last longer since YOU control them so once the truck is warmed up they won't be activated, and most importantly, if one or two glow plugs are malfunctioning you can still fully activate the remaining plugs while the factory controller will sense the extra resistance in the GP circuit and think the plugs are hot when they are actually not--this is the fast on/off clicking that some experience when trying to cold start. Yes the factory setup kind of acts like a diagnostic when it is activated but it also can keep you from getting your truck started if something is off in the GP wiring. For the first year I owned my truck I had a broken harness and only used 7 GPs but with a manual system I had no starting issues. Obviously both have their pros and cons but I will certainly advocate for the manual setup, plus I'm cheap and a momentary switch is a lot less than a new controller. YMMV
 

Cubey

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...but after replacing the regulator 5 times and the alternator 7 times in just the past 4 years....

Egads, sounds like something else was wrong in the wiring. I replaced the alternator and original voltage regulator (it didn't need it, was the alt that was bad) once on my F250. My RV still has the probably original regulator and possibly the original alternator.
 

Black dawg

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Egads, sounds like something else was wrong in the wiring. I replaced the alternator and original voltage regulator (it didn't need it, was the alt that was bad) once on my F250. My RV still has the probably original regulator and possibly the original alternator.


I have had nothing but trouble with the external voltage regulator and alternator on these trucks......this is over 25 years of working on my own and others. I really feel that the 3g is the single best upgrade for these trucks. The originals usually gave good service, but the aftermarket regulators are junk.
 

Cubey

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I have had nothing but trouble with the external voltage regulator and alternator on these trucks......this is over 25 years of working on my own and others. I really feel that the 3g is the single best upgrade for these trucks. The originals usually gave good service, but the aftermarket regulators are junk.

Odd. I put an OReilly one on my F250 in mid/late 2017 and it was still working when I drive it this summer. It sat for most of 2019.
 

frankenwrench

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Egads, sounds like something else was wrong in the wiring. I replaced the alternator and original voltage regulator (it didn't need it, was the alt that was bad) once on my F250. My RV still has the probably original regulator and possibly the original alternator.
The wiring harness came from a truck with no charging issues, just a bad auto transmission. Didn't have issues till it was on my truck. Even stole the regulator and alternator from the diner and still issues. Gave up right there. It's all now back on her truck and same issues again so I went with the 3g on both our trucks. Wasn't worth the effort or time. No charging issues since.
 

Steven Sochalski

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Unless I read right past it, have you checked your battery cables and grounds? I had an intermittent issue that was all due to one bad ground. Easy fix.



I would have to completely disagree with this^^^^, no offense. If you install the proper Beru/Motorcraft plugs, all wiring is proper and complete, and you don't glow the plugs for unreasonable durations(I go 10-12 seconds) you should have ZERO glow plug issues. The advantages of the push button, in my opinion, are that your glow plugs should last longer since YOU control them so once the truck is warmed up they won't be activated, and most importantly, if one or two glow plugs are malfunctioning you can still fully activate the remaining plugs while the factory controller will sense the extra resistance in the GP circuit and think the plugs are hot when they are actually not--this is the fast on/off clicking that some experience when trying to cold start. Yes the factory setup kind of acts like a diagnostic when it is activated but it also can keep you from getting your truck started if something is off in the GP wiring. For the first year I owned my truck I had a broken harness and only used 7 GPs but with a manual system I had no starting issues. Obviously both have their pros and cons but I will certainly advocate for the manual setup, plus I'm cheap and a momentary switch is a lot less than a new controller. YMMV

I pulled off all the battery cables and cleaned posts and terminals and used dielectric when testing the glow plug system. I'm planning on doing the push button glow plugs tomorrow. I have extra red 10 gauge stranded, but I also used it for my push button start.
 

nitroguy

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I'll second the niceness of a push button full manual setup. Love the control, and I can glow a little longer on those cold mornings, or if it's not cranking quite fast enough.

One thing to look at, assuming everything else is good (and you seem very competent and thorough) is the starter. A gear reduction starter will spin that engine so much faster and make it fire up almost instantly. Not cheap, but if you're willing to part with a couple hundred bucks at Napa and an hour of work, I think you'll find your starting issues over, especially if you pair it with manual plugs.

Basically, gear reduction starter, push button plugs, and good batteries and no air and your starting issues go away.
 

IDIBRONCO

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One thing to look at, assuming everything else is good (and you seem very competent and thorough) is the starter. A gear reduction starter will spin that engine so much faster and make it fire up almost instantly. Not cheap, but if you're willing to part with a couple hundred bucks at Napa and an hour of work,
One misconception here is that only the Nippendenso starters have a gear reduction. The Mitsubishi starters also have one. the only ones that didn't are the old, heavy AC Delco starters that were used on early 6.9's but seemed to be gone by about 1985 (I'm not sure on when they were phased out). So most of the starters that came out on these truck were gear reduction starters. The ones from a parts store are hit and miss (like most parts these days). If you're going to drop $200 at NAPA for a starter, I'd buy a Powermaster 9050 for about the same price and have a quality starter. A NAPA one may last a few months or it may last for 10 years like the one that I bought from Car Quest back in about 2006 did. If you buy one from a parts store, ask for one for a F Superduty and you should get the Nippendenso style one. The one in your picture does look like a Nippendenso style starter to me.
 

Greenie

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After exhausting every other possibility I tried a DB starter - the original starter turned the engine over but not fast enough to start the truck quickly. I've had the DB for two years now - it's inexpensive, so who knows how long it will last but for now my hard starting problems are a memory.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I've had a cheap one on my truck since 2016. It still spins over just fine, but there's a Powermaster sitting behind the seat just waiting for an install.
 

Steven Sochalski

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I'll give the manual plugs a try first then the starter if needed.

I got it all wired up. It will get a test when we get colder weather. It's 66 today. Looks like Saturday is the next night on sub freezing temps.

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papadiesel

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Even after you’ve done all that if you have still have a starting issue the second most common problem is the return lines from the injectors even if they don’t look wet if they’ve not been replaced for a while it’s time to put a new Returnhose kit and plastic cover flow cap, Don’t go cheap oh because many of the plastic are not as smooth and do not fit as tight replace O-rings cabs and lions with a good quality kit like from classic diesel
 

Joseph Davis

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I replaced my Starter because it crank slower than normal on cold morning. I used the double warm up the glow plug method to resolved my starting problems for a year. When I put in a new starter, problem solved. Start in less than 2 second on cold 32 deg, mornings. you can also check the advance power up wire on pump too. If engines is warm and light for glow plugs come on then replace temp sensor too.
 

Toryho

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When using the push button for the glow plugs, How long do you hold the button for the GP's to heat ? I have this on a truck I purchased and it is being very hard to start when temps are in the 40's and lower. How many seconds should I depress the button. I do have new Glow plugs.
Thank you
 

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