Trust machine shop and buy new heads or hold out for a second opinion??

genscripter

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You ended up getting heads from diesel cast welding right? Do you remember what their price range was?


It was so long ago, but that sounds really familiar. Something about Diesel Cast Welding having a shop in Minnesota and another in Oregon? I'm pretty sure I called the MN office, and they directed me to Oregon. And they ended up sending me fully dressed heads for I want to say $550 a piece. EMS handled all the delivery and parts compatibility, I just paid for their inspection (of the old heads).
 

genscripter

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I would have to have a tall enclosure with 2 post lift to remove box from frame. Can't be that many frame bolts. I reek EASY, no matter the cost, sometimes. Only if it is repetitive usage tho


When I pulled my 6.9 from my other E350, I undid the body mounts on the front of the cab to give myself an inch or two extra, so that it would be possible to pull the block with the IP and injector lines still installed.

Turns out lifting the body to pull the engine or other tasks is more trouble than it's worth on a van. Just the two body mounting bolts I took out on the front were so rusted that it was exceedingly difficult to turn them even with copious amounts of penetrating oil. And if I were to try to lift the whole cab, I would just have to remove the chairs and carpet in the van first, disconnect dozens of electrical connectors, and remove tranny/steering/brake linkage... If i'm going to go thru all that, I might as well just forget all that and just pull off the IP and injector lines. For the next two times I pulled my engine block, I didn't lift the body ever again.

Same goes for the heads. It's much less work to just remove the opposite motor mount, rest the block on its side on the crossmember, pull the head, clean up the surface, install the new HG, and put on the new head.
 

IDIBRONCO

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When I pulled my 6.9 from my other E350, I undid the body mounts on the front of the cab to give myself an inch or two extra, so that it would be possible to pull the block with the IP and injector lines still installed.

Turns out lifting the body to pull the engine or other tasks is more trouble than it's worth on a van. Just the two body mounting bolts I took out on the front were so rusted that it was exceedingly difficult to turn them even with copious amounts of penetrating oil. And if I were to try to lift the whole cab, I would just have to remove the chairs and carpet in the van first, disconnect dozens of electrical connectors, and remove tranny/steering/brake linkage... If i'm going to go thru all that, I might as well just forget all that and just pull off the IP and injector lines. For the next two times I pulled my engine block, I didn't lift the body ever again.

Same goes for the heads. It's much less work to just remove the opposite motor mount, rest the block on its side on the crossmember, pull the head, clean up the surface, install the new HG, and put on the new head.
The method that we used with a cherry picker was to remove the hook from the end, take the oil fill off, then, while keeping the boom as close to the top of the engine as we could and keeping the chain as tight as possible, the engine would come out. A 7.3 had to be turned slightly to clear the oil fill. I do think that the removing a motor mount to R&R a head in the van is a good idea.
 

1mouse3

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5757fb0c-a1bc-4286-a818-48b1d829b12b-jpeg.132232


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Now that is good evidence there is more than one way to skin a cat :joker:
 

typ4

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If the intake SEAT has a crack thats not good, if its cracked OUTSIDE the seat, run it. Been down this road many times.
Only if it extends to the actual seat is it a problem.
Also, I hate to admit this, there are a few EV trucks out there still running with a couple cracks thru the seat.
Dont hate, bosses orders.
Exhaust guides and seats are critical on these
 

Grant Cdebaca

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The only crack that I could make out was on the intake seat. The crack on the other head was marked on an intake valve but I couldn’t see it.


I found a pair of rebuilt heads from a place in Grand Prairie, TX.

shop.headsonly.com

$400 each plus $100 shipping including a return slip for the cores. Not a bad deal if they’re legit and I figure they’re probably my best bet. They’re on the way plus $207 from rock auto for bolts, gaskets, and valley pan.

I’m taking my sweet time cleaning the block surface. It’s my first time and I already can’t afford this job. Plastic scraper, brakleen, really gentle and careful with maroon scotch brite...

both sides are at the point where the easy stuff is off and all that’s left are the stains that are barely risen to the touch and those upper corner passageways.

Anyone have a good example of an acceptable idi block mating surface?
 

IDIBRONCO

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Right, wrong, or otherwise, this is what mine looked like. Ignore the Lubriplate around the cylinders. Of course this is assuming that you're talking about the head to block surfaces.

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typ4

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cut slots in one of your old head bolts vertically to use that to clean the block threads with to not use a tap it will cut the threads in the block oversized.
Unless you happen to have an actual thread chaser then you can use that in the block.
 

IDIBRONCO

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here's what mine looked like prior to installing the HGs
The surface looks about like mine. I Think that as long as it's smooth with all of the gasket materials off, it's fine. About the only way to get it shiny would be to have machine work done.
 

genscripter

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The surface looks about like mine. I Think that as long as it's smooth with all of the gasket materials off, it's fine. About the only way to get it shiny would be to have machine work done.

I think it goes without saying to most of us, that it's imperative the block not be decked. The surface should be thoroughly cleaned (like in our images), but that's about it. This advice can't be expressed enough, especially for IDI newbies and anyone getting machining advice from a mechanic who lacks experience with IDI's.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I think it goes without saying to most of us, that it's imperative the block not be decked. The surface should be thoroughly cleaned (like in our images), but that's about it. This advice can't be expressed enough, especially for IDI newbies and anyone getting machining advice from a mechanic who lacks experience with IDI's.
The only thing that I'll add for the newbies is that it's also imperative to not take very much off of the heads either. That's why I had to overhaul mine with some decomp pistons.
 
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