Truck won't start anymore, no fuel out of ip

chillman88

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How long has the ""new"" pump been sitting? I've heard of people having issues with the fuel metering valve varnishing and sticking after sitting for extended periods.

I couldn't tell you specifics, but it's been mentioned on here before that there's a way to pull the top off the IP and make sure the metering valve is moving freely.
 

Clay46

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How long has the ""new"" pump been sitting? I've heard of people having issues with the fuel metering valve varnishing and sticking after sitting for extended periods.

I couldn't tell you specifics, but it's been mentioned on here before that there's a way to pull the top off the IP and make sure the metering valve is moving freely.
That is something i don't know, i think the guy i got it from had it sitting on a shelf for a while so ill look into that too this morning and see what i find
 

chillman88

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That is something i don't know, i think the guy i got it from had it sitting on a shelf for a while so ill look into that too this morning and see what i find

For what it's worth, I believe the metering valve is what the shut-off solenoid pushes shut if that helps you at all.
 

Clay46

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For what it's worth, I believe the metering valve is what the shut-off solenoid pushes shut if that helps you at all.
I pulled the top of the ip off and the metering valve moved pretty freely although it looked like there was a little bit of crud at the bottom
 

Clay46

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It sounds like it's sucking air in the fuel lines.The easiest way to be sure of this,is to let it sit overnight,then in the morning,pull the fuel filter,and if it is not %100 full,that means there is a leak/pinhole some where,causing all the fuel to back drain to the tank,leaving you with a bunch of air in the lines when you go to start it up.I had this happen to both my trucks,so I just replaced the bad fuel line,and converted to an electric fuel pump,so there is no more cranking till' the batteries or starter die,you just turn the key on,and by the time your glow plugs have cycled,the fuel sytem will be primed,and it will start right up.Be sure not to overlook the metal fuel lines,especially the line that goes over the cross member right before the mechanical lift pump.All of the rubber fuel line on my f250 was in great shape (I replaced it anyways of course)but all the metal line was really pitted,and that one metal line before the lift pump had a bunch of pin holes in it causing air intrusion.

Rock
I just pulled the filter and it was completely full
 

IDIBRONCO

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Since you've determined that you have fuel to the IP but not after it, it seems like you've narrowed it down to this IP. I would be looking at putting one of the others back on. If, after three days of trying, you still don't have any fuel to the injectors, you should be considering the possibility that you're not going to get any from this IP.
 

Clay46

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Since you've determined that you have fuel to the IP but not after it, it seems like you've narrowed it down to this IP. I would be looking at putting one of the others back on. If, after three days of trying, you still don't have any fuel to the injectors, you should be considering the possibility that you're not going to get any from this IP.
Yeah I was really trying to avoid pulling the good one off my parts truck because i planned on using it to plow this winter but probably going to try the pump from that truck since i know that truck starts up and runs amazing
 

Clay46

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Since you've determined that you have fuel to the IP but not after it, it seems like you've narrowed it down to this IP. I would be looking at putting one of the others back on. If, after three days of trying, you still don't have any fuel to the injectors, you should be considering the possibility that you're not going to get any from this IP.
Yeah I was really trying to avoid pulling the good one off my parts truck because i planned on using it to plow this winter but probably going to try the pump from that truck since i know that truck starts up and runs amazing
 

quickster

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Take the fss off and bench test it. While it's open check out the metering valve. If fuel is going in but not out, it's in the pump. Did you try starting it with the jumper wire and not the wire in the harness?
 

IDIBRONCO

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Yeah I was really trying to avoid pulling the good one off my parts truck because i planned on using it to plow this winter but probably going to try the pump from that truck since i know that truck starts up and runs amazing
If the truck starts with that IP, then I'd suggest trying the one that was on there to see what happens. Before pulling the one off of your plow truck, mark the IP housing so that you can get the timing set back to where it is at now.
 

Erwin Romel

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Take the top cover of the Ip off, the metering valve has to move absolutely free. If it does not, suck the diesel fuel out, fill with WD 40 and Rock it back and forth until it moves absolutely free. Then try the fuel at the injectors with top cover off of the Ip, it will run with the cover off, just pouring diesel out.
Next time if u suspect problems with one cylinder, start with the compression check, valve train check before randomly throwing parts at it.
 

genscripter

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"Did you try cracking open an injector line while turning the engine over? Just to see if you get fuel out of the line. Either have someone turn it over or use a remote starter switch and press in the schraeder valve on the filter head to see if any fuel is coming up. Still sounds like the shutoff. Or you have a big air leak."

"Yes. This is how i have been doing this"





I know this is a dumb question, but when you were cracking the lines, did you give it FULL throttle?

You got power to the FSS. You got fuel to the IP. You have enough cranking power (batteries need to be over 12.0V with the key off or you are wasting your time). You manipulated the IP's metering valve. If you have all that, then you should be getting decent fuel to your cracked injector lines, assuming you are giving it full throttle.
 

Dane Rickford

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This sounds similar to what happened to me once. I just installed a new pump, and drove 20 miles. Suddenly the truck died and nothing I could do would start it after running some diagnostics, I figured out that the input shaft on the pump sheared. What happened was the bolts holding the pump to the timing gear inside the gear housing had vibrated out. Our pumps input shafts are designed to shear under a certain level of pressure. This is so if the pump seizes up, it won’t harm the timing or cam gears. To me it sounds like a sheared input shaft, which is why you aren’t getting any fuel to the injectors
 
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