Key gets stuck in "ON"

RSchanz · Nov 22, 2020

My key will intermittently get stuck in the "ON" position. The only way that seemed to free it up would be turning the engine on then off. I took the steering wheel off to check out the linkage and gears etc. Noting seems to be off to the un-trained eye. I've uploaded these pictures so maybe someone could tell if something looks off. The gear inside where the ignition switch is looked like it was in fine condition and greased very well. The key also spins fine when it's off the column.

I guess the only thing I could think is that the arm on the top looks very dusty and dry.

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1mouse3 · Nov 22, 2020

This go to a gear on the lock correct, what dose that look like? Also how hard is it to move the switch at the base of the column, follow the rod that gose down the top?

RSchanz said:
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franklin2 · Nov 22, 2020

Is that rod coming unhooked from the switch? That is all located behind the dash. The easiest way to take a look is to take the two bolts loose on the u-bracket that holds the column to the bottom of the dash , and drop the column and let it sit on the seat.

I see you have a manual transmission so you don't have to worry about this but everyone else with a automatic, MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE LITTLE PLASTIC TUBE WITH THE STRING INSIDE FOR YOUR PRND321 INDICATOR BEFORE YOU DROP THE COLUMN. You will break this little tube if you don't and it's very difficult to find another one.

RSchanz · Nov 22, 2020

1mouse3 said:
This go to a gear on the lock correct, what dose that look like? Also how hard is it to move the switch at the base of the column, follow the rod that gose down the top?

Yeah this is the gear for the ignition switch which does run along a gear. The gear it runs along seems fine and very greasy. I put it in it when it was taken apart and turned the key back and forth and it all seemed to go smoothly. I havent tried moving the switch at the base which I think it what franklin is referring to as well. I will say that when I push the actuator in and out it doesn't seem to go very smoothly. It takes a fair amount of force to get it to come back especially.

franklin2 said:
Is that rod coming unhooked from the switch? That is all located behind the dash. The easiest way to take a look is to take the two bolts loose on the u-bracket that holds the column to the bottom of the dash , and drop the column and let it sit on the seat

I suppose the rod could be. I'll lower the steering column and check it out. I don't think mine has a u-type bracket it seems to have about 4-6 bolts and its flat but I'm assuming if I remove these bolts it will lower.

Any thoughts on whether or not I should remove the rod from the actuator and inspect that?

The_Josh_Bear · Nov 22, 2020

$20 says it's the square part of the actuator rod that runs inside the column a bit. Needs greaseless lube that tolerates COLD. I used grease once and that was a mistake. Cleaned it off and used Boeshield and it actuates great now, 3 years later.
But I'm sure a modern graphite or some kind of dry lock lubricant would be fine too.

I broke this piece once because it became so hard to turn. I may or may not have used pliers to turn it harder, lol.

In my experience the switch itself doesn't get stuck but it could happen. I've had an 88 and my 89 and both had that square bit with old factory lube on it dried up and hard to turn.

And in both cases the tumbler and switch were great and easy to turn. The rack and square bit were the problem with the old lube.

RSchanz · Nov 22, 2020

The_Josh_Bear said:
$20 says it's the square part of the actuator rod that runs inside the column a bit. Needs greaseless lube that tolerates COLD. I used grease once and that was a mistake. Cleaned it off and used Boeshield and it actuates great now, 3 years later.
But I'm sure a modern graphite or some kind of dry lock lubricant would be fine too.

I broke this piece once because it became so hard to turn. I may or may not have used pliers to turn it harder, lol.

In my experience the switch itself doesn't get stuck but it could happen. I've had an 88 and my 89 and both had that square bit with old factory lube on it dried up and hard to turn.

And in both cases the tumbler and switch were great and easy to turn. The rack and square bit were the problem with the old lube.

I like this idea! White lithium do the trick?

Gotta love when internal "manliness" turns on and the idea for brut strength takes over. I think its usually frustration and happens to me nearly every time I work on this stuff. This is also probably why I don't golf... haha

The_Josh_Bear · Nov 22, 2020

Yeah I think I was in the "gotta get to work" mode and just tried everything. Except using my brain, lol! I had no idea how the linkage worked, Ford could have made it more complex geez.

I think a silicone based lube will work better, it'll operate much better at cold temps. Don't forget to remove the old stuff first.

RSchanz · Nov 23, 2020

Any thoughts on lubrication in here? This is the par that the rod attaches down under the dash. I'm thinking it wouldn't hurt... With it off it seems to run so smooth it makes me think the issue lies in here. Maybe di-electric grease since it has contacts?

At any rate I lubricated the actuator rod and pretty much everything else that seemed like it could use it

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I also don't want to get off subject but thanks to brute strength and old plastic I broke the piece that goes between the ignition cover and the long plastic cover that goes into the dash. LMC doesn't seem to sell the part any ideas on where I could find this?

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The_Josh_Bear · Nov 24, 2020

I've never lubed the switch or needed to so I'm not much help there. They do have an amount of resistance on purpose, and are cheap to replace if you think it's harder to cycle than it should be. You could always slap it back on and cycle the whole thing and see how it feels.

For that bezel I guess a pick n pull yard?

franklin2 · Nov 24, 2020

I would replace the switch. They do wear out mechanically and electrically also.

RSchanz · Nov 24, 2020

I threw it all back together and so far it seems to work fine. I decided not to lubricants the switch and if things seem to continue to be strange I can drop the column easily and replace that.

Yeah, I figure my best bet is a pick and pull.

Selahdoor · Nov 24, 2020

A little bit of care and patience with a good super glue will fix that bezel.

I've found that things like that require a good deal of time to cure properly. And usually a few applications, besides. But if done right, when you finally reinstall it, it will last.

If not... duct tape and baling wire!

RSchanz · Nov 24, 2020

Selahdoor said:
A little bit of care and patience with a good super glue will fix that bezel.

I've found that things like that require a good deal of time to cure properly. And usually a few applications, besides. But if done right, when you finally reinstall it, it will last.

If not... duct tape and baling wire!

I think I actually like the black duct tape baling wire idea better. I'm not sure if part of it was brittle plastic and part of it was my removal technique. I'm not quite sure how I'm supposed to actually get the bezel around column without breaking it. Therefore duct tape and wire will be easier to move around!

chillman88 · Nov 25, 2020

RSchanz said:
I'm not quite sure how I'm supposed to actually get the bezel around column without breaking it.

The honest answer could require disassembly of a bunch of the steering column which isn't terrible but is a nuisance. Slap it back on, glue it together and forget about it lol. If that ends up bugging you I may have a spare column I could look at and try to figure out.

RSchanz · Nov 25, 2020

chillman88 said:
The honest answer could require disassembly of a bunch of the steering column which isn't terrible but is a nuisance. Slap it back on, glue it together and forget about it lol. If that ends up bugging you I may have a spare column I could look at and try to figure out.

Maybe after this go around since the linkage seems to be working fine now I'll glue it. Then, when I have to break it again I'll use duct tape and wire - haha. Thanks for offering to check that out.

Now that the key works I got back to replacing the window seals (from LMC) and now the window doesn't really work at all - it's too much pressure for the motor. I think the motor is going to **** and the glass is placed in there incorrectly or the arm is coming loose. Something is going wrong. So, I've decided that replacing the power windows with manual windows might be the best idea https://www.oilburners.net/threads/power-to-manual-window-swap.87953/

I'm not really interested in "modern" luxuries with this rig

Key gets stuck in "ON"

RSchanz

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