if a glow plug is swollen get it out one way or another I like to remove them if they want to break off I use a magnet down the injector hole into the firecup in the head then try to force the glow plug out if it breaks off i push the section back into the glow plug hole and then remove it thru the injector hole in the head if you do not remove it you got a ticking time bomb because it will come apart in the motor eventually while running and likely destroy your motor.
I like to use a neodymium pencil magnet thru the injector hole as that hole is larger than the glow plug hole.
You want to get the swollen glow plug out otherwise it will split and melt into the engine itself and wedge into top of piston or run down cylinder wall gouging the cylinder wall also in alot of cases it leaves a weak spot in the piston that 1 day you will be towing all seems good then suddenly blow a hole thru the piston or piston just shatters.
I myself no longer use glow plugs in my motors I remove them and take the upper end and cut them off then knock the guts out then weld them on connector end with a tig welder. I then install a intake heater for a older duramax or power stroke 7.3 in the intake where the CDR originally goes. The reason being when you crank these 6.9 / 7.3 idi's up they tend to burn up the glow plugs or cause swelling even if not used and also by doing what I do I reduce compression allowing for more boost. I like to use 6.9 fire cups as theyre thicker and have a smaller chamber so they get the fuel out into the cylinder quicker and are less prone to cracking when you turn the fuel up.
The only down fall for me in cold climates is I need to use a block heater otherwise I need a slight bit of ether to start ( I have a homemade propane injection that works also ) but as long as is around 50f or so I start just fine using just the intake heater I have found I can run around 20psi boost with just head studs and my glowplug removal method and you want to talk about a big increase in power our motors going from 10-15psi to 20psi is very substantial as long as your intercooled and towing its night and day difference I can push mine with some other mods to around 25psi reliably without issues done so for around 200k miles almost daily with most of it towing heavy.
I like to use custom HX40 / HX50 turbos on our motors reason being theyre pre boost flow and low exhaust restriction yes we take off almost NA but as they spool they come on strong the thing is letting our motors breath if our motors cant breath pre turbo spool they are dogs and sluggish and accelerate super slow and spool the turbo super slow and just roll coal if we allow our motors to breath well pre spool they spool up faster and when the turbo comes on its comes on strong for a daily a modified HX40 is very good.
My HX40 comes on around 1500-1700RPM's pretty much where our power curve comes in so it lights off good and breathes well all the way till governor starts defueling the smaller turbos run out of flow around 2400rpms leaving them gutless in the main RPM you will be towing in which is 2000-3000 RPM's again yes my setup comes on a bit later but it does so in a good power curve and holds all the way to redline unlike the factory OEM's for our motors.
I want to say this take a factory turbo for one of our motors run it up to say 2000rpms then down shift from 5th to 4th and hop it to 2800rpm ish they got nothing the turbo is out of CFM flow and cannot feed the motor the HX40's I run flow all the way thru so they just pull like a mad dog and hold the boost the entire way from 1700RPM's upto redline.
my go to HX40 turbo mods are
Billet Compressor Wheel 60X86mm,7/7
Turbine wheel 67mm*76mm-10blades
and center section
water cooling Bearing Housing suit compressor wheel size 60x86
intake heater
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-GM-9...s=duramax+intake+heater&qid=1604326952&sr=8-3
The turbo mods just to give a idea are these I go thru turbo labs most of time again these are not advised to use the aliexpress parts but to give a idea of what my mods are that I like to use.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32943253058.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.2feb2e0eTzlSlS
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001125467490.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.2feb2e0eTzlSlS
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000344133924.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.2feb2e0eTzlSlS
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32958568987.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.2feb2e0eTzlSlS
The actual turbo labs link to what I essentially linked parts for http://turbolabofamerica.com/holset-hx40-super-40-turbo-specs/
video on it
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
I also use a 4inch I/O air to water intercooler with full 4inch piping from turbo to intercooler as short as possible and converted the factory A/C condensor core to a heat exchanger the intake I removed the cross bar section out of intake itself then ported anything blocking flow I used a 45 degree 4 inch elbow and welded it into the intake then put the intake heater in the port on back of intake where the CDR goes.