Swollen Glow Plug Cheap Fix

Motorhome idi

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hey so I found out that if you have a swollen autolite and cant get it out the hole you can do the manual button wiring to bypass the resistance click thingy & run it with 7 glow plugs. Put whatever on the end of the boot that was connected to the swollen one and walah. You prolly dont even have to wire it manually if you disconnect the swollen one to a new one and have it sit on the engine like a psycho. Idk i'm sure you can plug something else in instead if you don't want to do the manual wiring but I don't know anything about resistance.
 

mblaney

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I think I need 8 working GP's for cold weather, and having a loose red-hot GP that is probably not grounded properly is a fire waiting to happen. No thank you!

If you don't want to remove the bad plug the best solution is to leave it alone.
 

CBRF3

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if a glow plug is swollen get it out one way or another I like to remove them if they want to break off I use a magnet down the injector hole into the firecup in the head then try to force the glow plug out if it breaks off i push the section back into the glow plug hole and then remove it thru the injector hole in the head if you do not remove it you got a ticking time bomb because it will come apart in the motor eventually while running and likely destroy your motor.

I like to use a neodymium pencil magnet thru the injector hole as that hole is larger than the glow plug hole.


You want to get the swollen glow plug out otherwise it will split and melt into the engine itself and wedge into top of piston or run down cylinder wall gouging the cylinder wall also in alot of cases it leaves a weak spot in the piston that 1 day you will be towing all seems good then suddenly blow a hole thru the piston or piston just shatters.

I myself no longer use glow plugs in my motors I remove them and take the upper end and cut them off then knock the guts out then weld them on connector end with a tig welder. I then install a intake heater for a older duramax or power stroke 7.3 in the intake where the CDR originally goes. The reason being when you crank these 6.9 / 7.3 idi's up they tend to burn up the glow plugs or cause swelling even if not used and also by doing what I do I reduce compression allowing for more boost. I like to use 6.9 fire cups as theyre thicker and have a smaller chamber so they get the fuel out into the cylinder quicker and are less prone to cracking when you turn the fuel up.

The only down fall for me in cold climates is I need to use a block heater otherwise I need a slight bit of ether to start ( I have a homemade propane injection that works also ) but as long as is around 50f or so I start just fine using just the intake heater I have found I can run around 20psi boost with just head studs and my glowplug removal method and you want to talk about a big increase in power our motors going from 10-15psi to 20psi is very substantial as long as your intercooled and towing its night and day difference I can push mine with some other mods to around 25psi reliably without issues done so for around 200k miles almost daily with most of it towing heavy.

I like to use custom HX40 / HX50 turbos on our motors reason being theyre pre boost flow and low exhaust restriction yes we take off almost NA but as they spool they come on strong the thing is letting our motors breath if our motors cant breath pre turbo spool they are dogs and sluggish and accelerate super slow and spool the turbo super slow and just roll coal if we allow our motors to breath well pre spool they spool up faster and when the turbo comes on its comes on strong for a daily a modified HX40 is very good.

My HX40 comes on around 1500-1700RPM's pretty much where our power curve comes in so it lights off good and breathes well all the way till governor starts defueling the smaller turbos run out of flow around 2400rpms leaving them gutless in the main RPM you will be towing in which is 2000-3000 RPM's again yes my setup comes on a bit later but it does so in a good power curve and holds all the way to redline unlike the factory OEM's for our motors.

I want to say this take a factory turbo for one of our motors run it up to say 2000rpms then down shift from 5th to 4th and hop it to 2800rpm ish they got nothing the turbo is out of CFM flow and cannot feed the motor the HX40's I run flow all the way thru so they just pull like a mad dog and hold the boost the entire way from 1700RPM's upto redline.

my go to HX40 turbo mods are
Billet Compressor Wheel 60X86mm,7/7

Turbine wheel 67mm*76mm-10blades

and center section
water cooling Bearing Housing suit compressor wheel size 60x86

intake heater
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-GM-9...s=duramax+intake+heater&qid=1604326952&sr=8-3



The turbo mods just to give a idea are these I go thru turbo labs most of time again these are not advised to use the aliexpress parts but to give a idea of what my mods are that I like to use.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32943253058.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.2feb2e0eTzlSlS

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001125467490.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.2feb2e0eTzlSlS

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000344133924.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.2feb2e0eTzlSlS

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32958568987.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.2feb2e0eTzlSlS


The actual turbo labs link to what I essentially linked parts for http://turbolabofamerica.com/holset-hx40-super-40-turbo-specs/

video on it

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media


I also use a 4inch I/O air to water intercooler with full 4inch piping from turbo to intercooler as short as possible and converted the factory A/C condensor core to a heat exchanger the intake I removed the cross bar section out of intake itself then ported anything blocking flow I used a 45 degree 4 inch elbow and welded it into the intake then put the intake heater in the port on back of intake where the CDR goes.







 
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ttman4

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Lots and lots info there CBRF3. Near over my head tho.

I kno this tho, I learned hard way few yr back about cheap off brand &Autolite & other good deals on glowplugs on my’92 7.3 NA. Had few swelled &broke off. Spent lots time VERY CAREFULLY drilling out with very small bit, then bigger, then bigger, then bigger bits till they all was out. Gritted my teeth hoping & hoping not breaks bit.
I pulled it off but never want do it again! Breus (sp) ZD9 since!!!
 
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Motorhome idi

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I think I need 8 working GP's for cold weather, and having a loose red-hot GP that is probably not grounded properly is a fire waiting to happen. No thank you!

If you don't want to remove the bad plug the best solution is to leave it alone.

Yeah but if you disconnect it then there's this resistance that makes the relay not work without the manual button and if you keep em connected then it'll shatter one day. Im sure there's something safe that mocks the resistance of a glow plug but idk. I was just scared to break it off but im sure a magnet gets rid of all the pieces thats prolly a better idea. but i would get a manual button if i stayed in the south cuz they'll last longer too.
 

CBRF3

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Yeah but if you disconnect it then there's this resistance that makes the relay not work without the manual button and if you keep em connected then it'll shatter one day. Im sure there's something safe that mocks the resistance of a glow plug but idk. I was just scared to break it off but im sure a magnet gets rid of all the pieces thats prolly a better idea. but i would get a manual button if i stayed in the south cuz they'll last longer too.


That is kind of correct about them breaking truth is once they swell its a ticking timebomb whether disconnected or not as the engine running keeps it nearly red hot in the flame cup in the head directly beside the injector so your best to remove it otherwise as i said before you are just waiting for chaos aka it to swell up split and come apart in the motor either lodging itself into top of the piston or gouging the cylinder wall or making a deformation in the piston that later causes the piston to either blow a hole in it or to literally shatter causing the rod to want to become a outer rod and not a inner rod LOL.

I learned a while back to remove them and do my mod to them I mentioned in another post on this thread if your going to all out performance or heavy tow and add a turbo and extra fuel as adding fuel just increases the heat thus increasing the risk of the glow plugs swelling / melting even if are disconnected trust me I have destroyed around 5 motors all because of the glowplugs and they were factory motorcraft / beru glow plugs I guess i just push the limits to much for factory design and the glow plugs were the grenade that killed a few of my motors.
 
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