Betsy the Worktruck

Scotty4

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Installed Wes' glow plug relay and harness kit last night and new ZD9s. Got her buttoned up today and at 30F she fired right up in no time. Previous owner had used Beru plugs with antisieze so they came out easy. Two plugs had high resistance readings as well so it was about time.

The kit was well put together, easy to install, instructions were great, and Wes' response time to questions is excellent as usual. @Thewespaul thank you.

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Farmer Rock

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zd9's are definetly the way to go,you will be much happier with them.My f250 needs a harness,and I am probably going to get one from Wes.I have made them in the past,but seeing how high quality his harnesses are,I might just go that route.


Rock
 

Scotty4

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Well I finally registered my truck here and got the Racing sticker during my inspection. No, not for rust, or lights out, but ball joints and tie rods. I just drove the flipping thing across country, have been hauling logs and gravel all over, thinking this thing rode like a Cadillac but no, rubber is worn on ball joints and the old grease was still stuck to the tie rods after I greased them and looked worn. I figured going to an old timer who was born in the town I was just stationed in would give me the benefit of the doubt...

So now we have ball joints, tie rods, bushing kit, and front U-joints to go in. I am also going to slap the 3G on finally with a fuse block to remove the links. Also going in will be some aluminum battery trays and I'll fab up some sort of box to hide the fuse block, vacuum switch, inline alternator fuse, and gp solenoid in.

When the wife says to get whatever ya need to fix it, you get what ya "need."

Any good videos or advice on aligning a Dana 44 ttb? I don't trust any auto shop in the valley. Since cash for clunkers swept the area, not many places see these anymore.

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Farmer Rock

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Well I finally registered my truck here and got the Racing sticker during my inspection. No, not for rust, or lights out, but ball joints and tie rods. I just drove the flipping thing across country, have been hauling logs and gravel all over, thinking this thing rode like a Cadillac but no, rubber is worn on ball joints and the old grease was still stuck to the tie rods after I greased them and looked worn. I figured going to an old timer who was born in the town I was just stationed in would give me the benefit of the doubt...

So now we have ball joints, tie rods, bushing kit, and front U-joints to go in. I am also going to slap the 3G on finally with a fuse block to remove the links. Also going in will be some aluminum battery trays and I'll fab up some sort of box to hide the fuse block, vacuum switch, inline alternator fuse, and gp solenoid in.

When the wife says to get whatever ya need to fix it, you get what ya "need."

Any good videos or advice on aligning a Dana 44 ttb? I don't trust any auto shop in the valley. Since cash for clunkers swept the area, not many places see these anymore.

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Maybe I am misunderstanding something, but are you planning on using the fuse block in place of the inline fuses? If so, that appears to be a distribution block for accesories, which is powered by one terminal, and not a power through setup like an inline fuse.




Rock
 

Scotty4

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Baby steps. Made up the driver's side battery tray and reservoir mount. Duplicated the stock one using 3/16 aluminum diamond plate. Everything fits snug. May have to clean up the corner touching the air intake tube and I want to reroute the battery cable and wiring. But I'm happy with it. Figured start with this one to get an idea on size and then fab up the pass. side next week.

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Scotty4

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The 3G is in. Thanks @chillman88 for the help getting the correct parts. Utilized the walkthrough in the tech section, a recent thread with info from @CBRF3, and one or two from FTE.

Amazing how many wires are spliced to the charge wire from factory. Also was able to clean up some grounds as the factory used the regulator bolt which doesnt seem like a great spot.

Edit: next up is the fuse block and the battery tray!
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CBRF3

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The 3G is in. Thanks @chillman88 for the help getting the correct parts. Utilized the walkthrough in the tech section, a recent thread with info from @CBRF3, and one or two from FTE.

Amazing how many wires are spliced to the charge wire from factory. Also was able to clean up some grounds as the factory used the regulator bolt which doesnt seem like a great spot.

Edit: next up is the fuse block and the battery tray!
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Yes I agree that extra wiring and odd ground issue at the external voltage regulator and the fusible link issues is why i always do the 3g or 10si/12si 1 wire alternator swap cleans up the wiring and opens up real estate for other things and helps declutter the wiring a bit and makes diagnosing / repairing issues at 2am on side of road or in middle of a snow storm or whatever much much simpler and for a proper power distribution setup is a nice place to put it where the old external regulator was.
 

Scotty4

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Made a start at it today. Got ball joints in and the 3 front shaft ujoints. What an absolute pain. Glad I did it now while the truck is still generally rust free. Got the front shocks in too, packed in some new grease, and started on the leaf bushings.

Tie rods first thing tomorrow and whatever bushings I can get in there.

At least the shop didn't lie as the bottom balls were absolutely shot, which was probablu why I had the camber I did.

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Scotty4

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That's some bs having a lift. You're supposed to do that job rolling in the mud. Good character building LOL
Fab shop I work at. The original shop my buddy bought has the lift and lots of vehicle tools to maintain our shop vehicles, the other shop is our main workplace. Nice to be able to leave the truck there and work on it as I go. Almost time to take the bike out!

I like rolling in mud as much as the next guy, but I also enjoy spending time with my father and I'm pretty sure just his skin is holding his joints together at this point.
 
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