93 f250 4x4 reserection

Its now on to the trinkets that hold everthing together, piece by piece they become rust free. You do have to get creative how you attack this stuff and at some point it is ready for assembly. The axles did get new u-joint since where out and could had been original.










these where a ordeal on them self to get apart and this is the aftermath.

Now on to getting the f-superduty leafs in place, hanging the axle and installing the knuckles. I went with the spring eliminator for the kingpins sice seemed like a weak point.






I trimed one of the d50 shilds to fit since better of the two avilable and may get new ones when ever I do the hub bearings. Then rinse and repeat on the hubs before install, now its starting to become hole again.

Now with the engine on a stand its the best time to investige, there was one broken bolt. The gaskets where stuck to the heads good but had issues.




With it apart found the fire ring blown out on two cylinders, there was burn pit on head and block.






Im running out of time to get this done and she has burned a hole in my wallet, so is going together as is. In my rush I did not ration out the special sauce to booth end of the studs, so used anti sneeze but should had gone get my ptfe compound. Went to torquing the studs at 40, 60, 80, 110, 130. On the 3rd at 130 got a shap so backed off to 110.







Now to lube contact points. Also spine the push rod on the lifters then pull wipe off and repate till they stick in place.




Now the engine can get dressed back up.

Now on to getting the linkage and brakes on so she can stop floating it the air. I went with 4in longer line in the front and got 6in longer for rear.









The caliper have phenolic piston for like 90+, so take care blowing them out. If you dont pack enough pad in the caliper and the piston can move to quick, they will easly shatter. I upgraded one to the metal pistons for now and the other will be done when pads are replaced.




I have also got marine boat lift battery tray installed on the frame. Im going to go with 2 agm h6 or h7 batterys here as aposed to in the bay. 2 h8 can fit on this tray but that would put them a bit close for confort.







This is where Im at so far, need to find funds to get the last few parts and need find them as well. I hope the cold dose not slow stuff down to much and dont think any more painting is going to be done.

Wow,fantastic report and progress! I like the color schemes too, it's a unique approach but looks sharp when you put it all together like that! Keep us in the loop as it comes together!

Hope the rest of those studs aren't weakened now.

Ran to a hydraulic shop yesterday, thats after spending hours rummaging through catalogs to make a list. They did not have exactly what I want but got stuff that will do, ordered more from else where. They did not have 37* JIC/AN fitting to push-loc, so have to deal with some evil 47* sae.



Got this power steering reservoir sometime ago off ebay and is what Im going to use, this has a filter inside. I latter found a mid 2000s topkick/kodiak has a smaller plastic one with a filter. This should be enough fluid that I should not need a cooler.



I also have got the power steering pump installed. This reservoir on the pump is off a late 60s bbc and I think 80s gm idi is the same. Will post more on this at a latter time.

The bumper has been bugging me with all the rock chips and have a step for it I picked at some point. It wormed up some so had modivation to punch the holes and deal with the visable side.





Since this was the only viable pace to have this hung, had to waste some tape.



This is with it on the bumper and will get screews for it latter




I also have trimed the ears off the bumper and used some bailing wire to reattach the air dam.

1mouse3 said:

an to where i am going to put my new temp switch an sensor on the motor

BOSCH 0280130037 coolent temp
URO 61311378073 Closing Temperature [°C]: 85; Shut-off Point [°C]: 93; Opening Temperature [°C]: 90; Switch Point [°C]: 98; Thread Size: 14x1.5

Click to expand...

Past me was thinking to far outside the box, there is a bridge that can be penertrated to get temp.

Just a tease and nothing more

With more fittings in hand, progress can continue with sorting out fuel.




Getting the selector valve out is messy and this is was what I did to give myself some time to think.




Now is on to getting the filter head sorted out and getting the fuel pump installed. These are two 33811 filters and one I got a long time ago, will get a 33377 and 33337 later on. Also ignore the reach around that occured.







This dose wonders making things slip together.

Did some running around to find some ring and battery terminals. Yes would had been better if I ordered some military type battery terminals but Im just winging it at moment.




With terminals in hand can go about making runs of cables.




Bmws and a few others are a good source of used double ought cable and this is a run i grabed one the times I was at the yard, this and what I had is what I used.





This is a jump post from a 2000s chevy truck, a dmax has a better one but non to be found.





Block ground is from scraps.




I chose agence one used and one new h6, so went with two new h7 agm. With this all in order the angry pixies can flow free to the engine.

Now on to trying to sort out the pressure feed to the hydroboost, was going to splice some old used lines I had sitting but that fail do to how hard and brittle they where.








So was on to plan b, where I got a 1ft line with compreshion fittings. Will get fancy high pressure hose and fitting at a later date, for now this cheap fix will do.





Past me did not grab the brake pedal off a f-superduty, so had to make something work. I drilled for a 9/16 grade 8 bolt and took it to someone to weld it in place.




While at this I opened a can of worms and but now know need to find more parts soon down the road.






As seen above did also get the oil cooler rebuilt but it was camera shy. Being freezing out, it was harder than should had been. Used jack to press it with the other end under the frame, is what I came up with to get it done.

1mouse3 said:

Edit: since the oil cooler was shy for a photo shoot, grabbed a prop to use as a example

You must be registered for see images attach

Click to expand...

Also was digging through boxes and managed to find the linkage brackets and finished up the fuel lines. Was thinking to dobble cross the return off the injectors but never got the second, so not doing that.

On to mounting the core back in, the old mounts were trash so a replacement was needed. Dont plan to replace all the mount any time some, so went as cheap as can. What I did is get some hockey pucks that I drilled for bushing the would keep then from getting crushed, there spaced with a washer. Since the passenger side is a bit bent up, It dose not sit as nice as the driver side.







The power steering reservoir is a bit chunky and the splash somewhat fit back with only minor cuts, ignore the cuts from past me.






for the most part the engine bay is done, only need to get the fan in and tie in the main power.






Also have got the grill and lights in after a bit of fighting with the bent core.

Past me losing the front half of the drive shat has opened a can of worms I cant seem to close. Could not find a hole peice and only one that had the front yoke cut off. It came with a bent rear section. Took that and the rear section I had to a drive shaft shop something made. A week later find out they could not get the slip yoke apart, so back to the yard to cut that section out of one. Another week later and they have not done anything, where I have to explane to then yet again that what the have is all there going to get to make a shaft. They where saying a weld was broken on the rear section from the truck and slip slip did not match.






Yet another week later and finaly get a drive shaft, more words going in one ear and out the other. I told them many time the from yoke has a cap 1/16 smaller cap than the rear yoke, I got same front and rear. No time or money to run in circles to get this sorted, I got a burr out and ported the yoke.







With front half in can now get the rear half in place but issues are not over. They cut too much out the rear shaft and is now 2in short of being usefull, 3in longer would be ideal. I between a rock and a hard place where this truck needs to be done but not like this. The car barfed its coolent somewhere under the intake a week ago and plates are now expired, not fixing it for sometiime and never renwing the plates. So this is bad position where I dont have a working vehicle.