Stick to the damn topic when posting

rsaltaresjr

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Can a pair of barely visible milling marks that are parallel to each other running alongside the radius of a steel fitting give a false indication of a crack using eddy current for NDI?
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CBRF3

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I have read countless of post and most of which have nothing to do with the original question or post. Example. Y-pipe collector leak post, page 2 changes to talking about timing and injectors. I dont give a damn. Stick to the topic or start your own post. Use your brain and use common sense. If you are not capable of either one then just read, very simple
I hate it when we will be talking about our old IDI internartional harvesters then some you know what decides to inject powerstroke info or questions into the conversation a OLD IDI conversation has absolutely 0 to do with any powerstroke anything outside of possibly a powerstroke intercooler LOL.
 

IDIoit

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I hate it when we will be talking about our old IDI internartional harvesters then some you know what decides to inject powerstroke info or questions into the conversation a OLD IDI conversation has absolutely 0 to do with any powerstroke anything outside of possibly a powerstroke intercooler LOL.
can i use power stroke injectors on my idi?
 

CBRF3

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can i use power stroke injectors on my idi?
with enough rigging and well fabrication you can use anything with anything but will it be feesible / reliable and easily replaced if things go wrong is the better question.

I actually have been working on some crazy ideas like steel topped pistons with the ricardo cups in them for our IDI's and a 10 thousands or so higher wrist pin position believe it or not I got access to a company that will do it for me its a bit pricey but not totally insane also add the larger wrist pin for the modified powerstroke 7.3 rods and well we might have a power barrier break for our IDI's been on the fence on this for a longtime but am almost to point of pulling the trigger and saying heck with it as i know our main issue is our cast pistons swelling under the heat and melting and pinching the rings in the ring lands a steel top piston would resolve this mainly.

I already had some forged pistons made for one of my motors and let me tell you made a big difference and really allowed me to push it much further 325ish wheel HP and 680ftlb of torgue at wheels with a HX50 turbo and 20lbs of boost and i wasn't pushing it hard before i let out was worried i would lift the head with ARP studs and over torgued to 150ftlbs my EGT'***** 1100F and turbo had just really kicked in.

I can say when that HX50 turbo comes on its violent runs good like a normal truck but as starts spooling it starts coming alive then once it comes on man its another kind of animal on the street its a bit scary. That turbo makes that motor go from tame to set to kill in a hurry it spools hard around 2000rpm's and at that point can give her a pretty good amount of throttle aka fuel and she spikes hard / fast and goes full boost with alot of violence like going from 300hp then adding a 250hp shot of nitrous I mean its startling fun but startling.

A major thing if you go with these kind of mods like I did remove the glow plugs for godsake otherwise they will melt and use the 6.9 fire / swirl cups in the heads theyre thicker and will resist cracking better and also have a smaller chamber helps direct the fuel out into the cylinder quicker. I remove the glow plugs cut the end off and then knock the rest of the guts out then I tig weld the end where the connector goes yes you need ether to start afterwards but your compression is reduced heavily add the pistons with the 10 thousands higher wristpin mahle made them for our motors this also reduces compression add head studs then add fueling and add a big turbo and preferably the modified 7.3 powerstroke rods and you can push some real boost into these engines like 25-28 psi. The key thing is get a turbo that will free flow when you are in lower RPM's aka run NA so your not choking the motor pre spool make a custom set of up pipes / headers to feed the turbo and then use a good intercooler. I am using a air to water intercooler with all 4inch tubing and modifed factory intake I welded a 4inch 45 aluminum elbow in and added a powerstroke 7.3 intake heater where the CDR valve was to help with cold starting.

I like to use 7.3 blocks sleeved to 6.9 for the head stud diameter size and also do the hasting tight ring gap piston ring set https://apaengineering.net/HastingsCatalog/Home/partdetail/1420

this ring set uses the same ring gap for both 1st and 2nd ring gap and is a big upgrade over the regular ring sets as the normal set has second ring gap super wide making for excessive blowby and compression loss.

I also advise the comp cam valve springs as a upgrade and add iconel valves from the turbo 7.3 idi and you got a monster.
 
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X-CABBRONCO

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I AGREE WITH CHEAP BRONCO

DO NOT ASSUME THAT MOST WANT TO READ COMIC RELIEF BANTER
AND WHAT THEY HAD FOR DINNER:mad:
 

david85

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Aw lighten up. I often run into off-topic threads when I search the archives as well, and not just on this site. One thing that is helpful is to simply use google and search Oilburners directly from there by using the "site: oilburners.net" prefix. That allows you to look for exact phrases and filter results much more efficiently. I rarely have good luck with the built-in forum search engine.

My apologies to everyone else for going "on-topic".LOL
 
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