Y-pipe to up-pipe slip fitting

Hey guys I scrounged up a couple of used turbo “kits” off of eBay for a stock turbo bolt on for the 6.9 in my ‘86. I believe I have all of the parts except the down pipe which I can make.

Problem is test fitting all of the hot side piping the y pipe and up pipe have a slip fitting which I think is way too loose to seal. I can easily insert and remove the y pipe with it on the bench and swivel it around. I have another up pipe which seems tight but it’s full of rust and I don’t really want to go through the hassle of swapping them since the unit I’m planning to install is already fully assembled.

Question is how loose is too loose and is there anything I can do to tighten up this connection? Other than welding the damn thing together?

Short video here:


Thanks guys!








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A lot of people use the copper high temperature silicone to help seal the exhaust joints

clean it real good, let it dry and just before you bolt it together, use ( i did) red hi temp silicone).
not tones, just smooth around the sealing edges. let dry 1 day and try it.. it worked for me..

Thanks guys I’ll get some high temp silicone and report back..


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Full circle the install went off without a hitch! I fabbed up a custom intake with parts I scooped from Summit. A few elbows and adapters and a nice tight fit.. I plan to weld a 1” bung onto a section of the intake piping to route a 1” radiator hose from the oil fill adapter to a CDR and into the intake.

FWIW the used stock turbo with the aftermarket down pipe and a custom 4” intake is really whistling. Driving it she feels sluggish so I need to take it somewhere for timing adjustment.

Still need to add a full exhaust and the boost and EGT gauges (sensor are in) to see what kind of boost and temps we are making.

More to come........






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Don't get too excited if you're not making much boost at this point. Poor engine timing may keep it from making all of it's potential boost.

It might not be super popular but I just welded it lol.

Happy to report we are making 7.5 psi at WOT in third gear! Need to find somebody in the Atlanta area (East side) to check/set timing.... any ideas??

Pics coming off my Auber gauge install!


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Tech articles>timing registry.

danno,
What method did you used to seal the slip fitting?

I went with the high temp silicone method!


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Get a free flowing exhaust on there and your boost may come up some also.

i came up with this to delete that up pipe

While I was in there bolting up the 4” exhaust there is definitely sooty evidence that this connection is leaking significantly despite my best efforts to seal it up... with the engine running there is visible smoke coming up into the engine bay... at this point welding up a vband looks like the best option.. where did u get that pipe or did you fab it? If fabbed are there plans somewhere??

Also I have a massive amount of black smoke.. moose jr. pump running to brand new injectors I got from rock auto.. worried now that I’m looking at another injector change, wouldn’t be the first pile of junk I got from rock auto.

Could timing really make that huge of a difference with smoke?? With the snap on special socket can u even really loosen the IP lines on the bottom of the IP? I remember when I installed the moose the lines were really fighting me and the closest I could get was about a dime width counter clockwise of the timing mark... reading forums this would suggest 4 degrees advanced of the mark, right? I don’t have the timing adapter or an adjustable light and don’t want to spend $200 on special tools just to time this beast once.... having trouble finding anyone in Atlanta that can do it, nobody on the registry inside of 400 miles.. ugh.

EGTs are running under 800 even on hard pulls and boost tops out around 7.2 psi ... FWIW. Feels sluggish to drive and the smoke is unbearable.

Any sage wisdom out there??

Danno


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danno said:

the closest I could get was about a dime width counter clockwise of the timing mark... reading forums this would suggest 4 degrees advanced of the mark, right?

Click to expand...

The lines mean nothing to the timing of the pump. They are a place to get the engine after pump replacement and that's it. Each pump is different on exactly where it's timed at. You could have two different pumps on your engine, line the marks up on both pumps and be off 7-8* or more on the timing. The only other option is to keep adjusting the timing a little at a time and then driving the truck to see how it feels. These also can't be timed by ear and you shouldn't believe anyone who says that they can. You can get close by ear, but that may still be 5-6* off.