I hate TTB axles

30k miles on these tires and there toast. Bfg ko2 265 75 16s. Back look brand new. Aligned 5k after putting the tires on the truck because I could feel them wearing odd but didn't matter. Any good fix to this or just doomed no matter what?

First, check if the brackets the beams attach to are solidly bolted to the frame under the engine.

Camber is an alignment spec they may have ignored. It also needs to be set with a normal payload in the truck. (i.e. don't have it set empty, and then haul a huge 5'er the rest of the time.)

Degree bushings are used on the (upper?) balljoint to fine-tune the camber a few degrees one way or the other. With suspension (spring) sag, the camber may be too much to correct with bushings. In that case, you need to help the springs out (replace or add a leaf) to get the camber back into range.

I swapped Dana 60s into both of mine. Problem solved.

My alignment sheet had the camber spec on it after they did it. They did my 150 as well granted the straight 6 isn't as heavy and it wore out tires too but nowhere near this level. They wore evenly horizontally across the tire too, unlike these that wore out worse closer to the engine on both sides.

+1 on the adjustable upper ball joint. I might also talk to another shop to get a second opinion on your alignment. I had a TTB on my red and white truck that wore tires very well at >250K miles. They can be made to wear tires pretty well.

BrianX128 said:

My alignment sheet had the camber spec on it after they did it...

wore out worse closer to the engine on both sides.

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Listing the camber doesn't mean they adjusted it. With TTB or twin I-beam, the camber changes with payload. It seems to me your tire wear indicates the top of the tire is leaning inward most of the time.

This 265 series tire... if its on a stock 6" wide wheel, could be further compounding the problem.

Get it back on the rack...

Also check the distance between your front bump stops and where they bottom out. On my previous IDI the front leafs were sacked out and it was almost riding on the bump stops, and had a lot of negative camber.

IIRC the manual says you can have up to 2 degrees of positive camber but no negative camber.

As someone else said, just because they listed the camber on the printout does not mean it was in spec. The computer programs know its not easily adjustable on that particular vehicle so they don't highlight them green/red like some of the other numbers for in or out of spec.

Also its not inconceivable that those just wore out quickly. Yeah they are obviously wearing unevenly but KO2's arent a super long lasting tire and the two of those are doing most of the braking for your heavy rig.

When I had my '86 F250 aligned, many many moons ago, they put in some beveled shims. One side was noticeably thicker than the other. I didn't know enough to ask, or to remember, where they went. Following that the tires wore well, pretty evenly.

As much as I don't want to say it I wasn't happy with the wear on my KO2s either. I got 25k out of the first set and barely 30 out of the second set. I completely re-bushed the entire front suspension at the end of the first set in anticipation of getting at least 15k more with good suspension and alignment but it didn't make it. I rotated every 5-7k miles and they wore decently even but they wore out fast. BFG has a new version of the KO2 now that has a mileage warranty (40k I think) but it loses the snowflake and it's pricey. I decided to try a different mfg for this set and I'm happy so far but I'm only about 5k into them.

BrianX128 said:

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30k miles on these tires and there toast. Bfg ko2 265 75 16s. Back look brand new. Aligned 5k after putting the tires on the truck because I could feel them wearing odd but didn't matter. Any good fix to this or just doomed no matter what?

Click to expand...

How much did you pay for the alignment? If it was something like $60, then you just got a toe adjustment. Expect to pay $150+ if they go in and do it right and have to buy caster/camber bushings. They have to go in and bust the top ball joint loose and turn the bushing or put new ones in to get rid of your problem. It's a pain and most shops won't do it.

P.S. Someone had a good idea in a previous post though; If you wanted to try and correct this yourself, and both sides are wearing the same inside pattern, if you put a add-a leaf or some sort of device to raise the ride height, it would make it wear more on the outside instead of the inside. If you wanted to mess with it yourself.

BrianX128 said:

You must be registered for see images attach

30k miles on these tires and there toast. Bfg ko2 265 75 16s. Back look brand new. Aligned 5k after putting the tires on the truck because I could feel them wearing odd but didn't matter. Any good fix to this or just doomed no matter what?

Click to expand...

Do you have a lift on your rig? I have a 4" rough country on mine with 285s. Every shop I called and asked about an alignment quoted me $300 because of the lift, they figured it'd be throwing off the camber and they'd have to shim it. I have some outside wear on the tires. I took it to a Mr. Tire and asked them to call me before they did the alignment fully anticipating having to grab the Vaseline. They called and said nope, it just needed to be aligned correctly under load like the previous posters said. Not sure how they did it but now it tracks straight down the road and even when parked. Only time it looks knee knocked is if I park it on uneven ground like the side of a hill or something.

The shop that did it is one my uncle worked at for 30 years before he passed, I know they had to order something for it but it was just a little over 100, they're pretty good to me. They were honest when I had brought my old winter beater gas truck to them a few years back and just said they did what they could but pointed out the several things that were too rusty to do anything with without likely making things worse, this truck is surprisingly rust free since it was in arizona for 20 years before coming to PA.

I will say one possibility here is replacing my leaf springs, they are "frowning" in the front more than they should for an F350, to be honest I'm not sure if the previous owner didn't put 250 leafs on it. I'm going to do some googling now and compare front springs I see on other 85 F350's and see if that wouldn't be the easiest way to gain a little "lift". The truck rides like garbage even with new shocks, I'm thinking the previous owner maybe put the less stiff springs in the front to try and save his back.

This is the only picture I can find on my phone of the springs visable. At work getting some overtime I don't want.

Unless there is massive amounts of camber it is not a camber issue. It is a toe issue. Camber may determine where the tire will wear, but toe is what makes the tire wear prematurely. Toe also is what is making the front end lift up when backed up, and then squat when going forward, neither should happen. Toe in combination with unequal caster values will cause the vehicle to pull left or right, 0 toe 0 pull. TTB work best with 0 to a hair positive toe. Forget using a tape it does not go down to hairs. Specs say a little negative toe is even permissible. I would check bushings as they may let the axles move changing alignment when driving. Understand how toe controls all aspects of the TTB is the key to stopping TTB tire issues.
My alignment tools consist of a digital angle meter and a flat bar with two studs for camber, and caster. A trackace for toe along with keeping an eye on tire wear.

As a reference I installed new leaf springs 10 years ago. I ended up with 1 5/8 between springs and bump stop. With a 2.75* camber bushing maxed out I still had 1* positive camber. I was told the springs would settle over time and camber would be close to correct. At the time I replaced pivot bushings, ball joints and shackle bushings. My pass side pivot bracket was almost falling off and cracked. No wonder the front end felt like crap.

Ouch, I agree with others that has bad camber written all over it.
As for solutions they have been covered, I can attest to the add-a-leaf solution working very well for my TTB. Along with replacing the spring and hanger bushings mine treats tires very well. And I drive like I have somewhere to be, not like a grandpa.
I'm thinking in a 2wd configuration the F250 springs won't be much different if at all from an F350. But rather they are just tired and probably the bushings are tired too.

Why would you not rotate tires front to rear in 30k? Especially seeing the damage happening up front.
The fronts carry almost 4,000lbs all day plus steering and the majority of the braking(the rears only have 2,500lbs.) The fronts will get eaten up faster no matter what unless you're burning rubber at every green light.