OBS window motor fix and rattles inside doors

lotzagoodstuff

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Although this question is for my PSD, I'm posting it under the IDI section as I believe the window hardware is all the same on all the OBS trucks. I also think the IDI section gets a lot more traffic, and I have to say that although I'm a Powerstroke owner now, I just like it more down here in the basement :D

So one of my rear power windows has been a little erratic for the past couple months, but now my drivers window is getting stripped. Let's face it: the driver's window really needs to be 100% functional. The motor works, and I'm sure the intermediate nylon gear has given up as it's super common. I haven't been inside an OBS door for a while, but I remember the drilling out the holes where the dimples are to get the motor out, and it sounds like the general consensus is to put some ball bearings or maybe small nuts to fill in the three gaps between the external "metal gerotor looking" gear and the white plastic drive gear that comes off the worm gear that's physically driven by the electric motor. Anyone with some input on what size ball bearings, nuts or other replacement part for the nylon intermediate piece would be appreciated.

Lastly, like most of these trucks now that they are all old, the doors seem to rattle a lot. I am guessing it's related to the window track as it seems louder when the glass is all the way down. If I'm in there, I figure I'd like to tighten and/or replace anything I can to eliminate any rattling. The wind noise, rattling and overall noise is really the only thing I can say that I really am envious of newer trucks. When I ride in something pretty new, I am always pretty impressed how quiet they are. I can't wait to see how quiet they are when they are 25 years old and have significant mileage on them :)

As always, any input is appreciated.
 

gandalf

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I've just been through this same problem. My windor is now fixed and working better than ever before. See This Thread. I think you understand the procedure for replacing the regulator and motor. You must grind or drill four rivets. The regulator and motor come out through one of the access holes in the door. Replace the rivets with four bolts, 1/4 inch by either 3/4 or 1 inch, with flat washers and nylock nuts.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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Thanks guys. I was feeling like I was being lazy not using the search function, and you all confirmed it: I was being lazy:D

I could have found all this information, but it's more fun to have you guys point me in the right direction.

Thanks for the pointers. I would seriously have put steel nuts or ball bearings in place of the plastic rollers, which could have been a big mistake. The link also pointed out of bunch of lubrication points I would have overlooked.

Thanks again folks, and Happy Belated 4th of July
 

aggiediesel01

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If you want to tackle quieting it down some, add some mass barrier to the inner door structure and the back of the door panel. That usually helps a lot with noise reduction after the seals are replaced and rattles are eliminated.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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So I bought a kit with enough bushings to do all four doors. Very inexpensive and shipped faster than expected.

https://vod.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderDetails?itemid=372646485348&transid=1209611840024&ul_noapp=true

I managed to get the driver's door done this afternoon, less than an hour start to finish. A lot of rattling was coming from the rivet on the track slider, which had developed a little play in the last 112,000 miles. A couple of strategically placed zip ties has eliminated the rattling, and after a light greasing on the track everything is working nicely.

Now I have to fix the back door...….
 
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