Betsy the Worktruck

My biggest challenge in following that suggestion is when I am working on one circuit, and in the middle of sorting out the one, I run across a problem with something else.

It's hard to NOT just go after that new problem you just found. (Then lose track of what you were doing, or forget to finish it.)

I suggest you do what I HAVE started doing. Take a pen and paper out there with you.

When you run across another problem, write it down.

When you have other thoughts, about what the real problem might be... write them down.

FINISH the one circuit. Then you can always go back to your notes, and choose another circuit or problem.

Thanks for the pro tip. Plenty of notepads laying around going untouched!

Might want to pull that dome light back out too. The way it's held in there with those screws through the electric terminals has caused me issues before. I had one break on me and short out. I ended up backing the screw out a little bit to fix it later.... And now here you're reminding me about it 4 years later

Was dome light. Had to park on the street for now so the wife can have our real estate photos taken tomorrow. After that it's game on to make the truck road worthy.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Wanted to follow up last night with a few questions:

@chillman88 and I discussed the potential issue with the domelight to be the LED. The socket looks like it got pretty warm in there as I put the biggest LED I could find thinking it would make it brighter but was not the case. With regards to LEDs, I recall seeing a thread with @Cubey and some others discussing temps and failure and just wanted to see what the thoughts were on using them going forward? I plan to put incandescent back in the dome and the wife said my reverse lights, which are now working thanks to a new switch, were really dim as well.

Headlight relays and dimmer switch are in and turns out they were on high beams this whole time, not the best. I am going to dig through the threads to see if I can find recommendations on headlights but wanted to see what current successes there were?

I intend to do the marker light relay mod as well, is there any benefit for a taillight or trailer socket relay? I have to replace my socket and it looks like a rats nest of 900 quick splices so wanted to clean it up and do it right.

Now that I have changed the seat, I can actually feel myself moving with the truck at idle so have a better seat of the pants calibration. I am unsure now if my idle is too low/rough or if before the seat being so loose and the lack of insulation prevented me from feeling and hearing my truck well. Just want to make sure it still sounds ok:


No tach but working on finding a tach & time so I can play with it before too long.

Just realized this was on cold advance. Will get another later after it warms up. Need to weld on the egt bung too.

Scotty4 said:

I am going to dig through the threads to see if I can find recommendations on headlights but wanted to see what current successes there were?

Click to expand...

I'm not sure if Bronco Graveyard has these, but LMC Truck does. They are glass (yes! no plastic!). While the bulbs they come with are fairly bright, I buy the brighter bulbs for them. The part# for the headlights is 36-0282-F. They part# for the brighter bulbs is 36-0291-F IIRC.

That might be the ticket! Was comparing all the different ones one LMC and BG earlier so may go with those as I had saved them to my cart.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I LOVE them.

Tried to install the dome light and test the issue further. It came on immediately and then went dim and out. I went and pulled the negatives and checked my links. I suspect it is the brown marker light wires or my headlight switch.

With the switch pulled testing continuity I have in the off position: pins I and R which look like the two to the coil/dimmer wire. In the marker/park position: I, R, A, and P have continuity. In the headlight position: I, R, A together and H and B are together. Cargo position: continuity of D1 and D2 then I, R, A again.

A is tan/white
B is Blk/orange
D1 is lg/y
D2 is blk/pk
R is brown double one being the one I cut
I is blue/red current gauge tap
H is red/y
P has no wire coming into the harness side

Connector has continuity between t-w/lg-y/b-o and then blk-pk/bl-r/brown.

Hope that all makes sense and can assist in trouble shooting. Was hoping @franklin2 would grace me with his beautiful presence.

Also, there is a connector behind the ds kick panel with both brown wires on it, nothing connected. I assume this is for the roof lights I don't have. It has continuity to ground.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Went and got a switch under warranty and checked it with a meter and can report everything was the same, with the exception of: cargo position has I and R together then D1 and D2. Considering it is brand new, I'm assuming this is correct. Just need to figure out what caused it to die and I'm still assuming dome light or something in the domelight wiring. I don't have a headliner anymore, could that make a difference ground wise?

Headliner shouldn't have anything to do with it.

Jeff, you think my initial wiring cooked the switch? Then the second time I got it running without the domelight because there was nothing drawing power there? And so now with a new switch and no domelight I am assuming it will work. What you think?

Then I will investigate the dome wiring more if she starts.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Have you checked your cab ground yet? I think it's above the heater box under the hood on mine. Thin braided ground wire. I added a larger wire on mine for good measure.

Have not. Thanks for mentioning

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk