Just started my 7.3* build

I have what i believe is a 6.9L(came out of an 89) and im looking to build it up to atleast 300 horsepower too the rear wheels. I know im going to need studs, bigger IP, bigger injectors and a new larger turbo setup which i want to make intercooled. I would like to see what input anyone has as far as any other parts i need. So far the motor out and in the process of being torn down.
Im having trouble getting the dang injection pump out(mainly due to me not doing this before) any help?
Some pics of the truck and new motor i am going to clean the motor very well!

Got a 7.3 there. 6.9 was 83 to 87. Nice looking truck!

Perfect. First question answered lol. So is there a disadvantage or advantage to a 7.3 over a 6.9?

Buffetkiller said:

Perfect. First question answered lol. So is there a disadvantage or advantage to a 7.3 over a 6.9?

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What you’ll find here is a group of guys that love these engines and can work you thru any issues with them. I think we’re all biased to the IH engines.

Some basic differences are the 6.9 had issues 83-85 with the block heater, the 7.3 has a different glow plug controller, v-belts were replaced by serpentine (not sure what year), and the biggest issue of all is the cavitation.

The 7.3 being a 6.9 block which is bored, has thinner cylinder walls allowing for “block worm.” Essentially the wall wiggles as the engine is running causing and air gap between wall/coolant and the slap of the coolant returning eats holes in the cylinder. This can be seen while running with the oil cap off (on IP gear cover) as well as when the oil is changed. The fix is to add supplemental coolant additives (DCA/SCAs) and to monitor and maintain them during the engines life. Helps lube the coolant to keep it from dancing.

Other than that there really is not much difference, wiring harness colors and locations of things changes slightly with body style too, but there are plenty of tech articles and people to answer whatever questions you may have!

I use fleet charge in my 7.3 with elc over sca. I am not partial to either, it's just easier to find for me. Also 6.9 has smaller diameter studs/bolts so when adding larger boost, the 7.3 will hold a headgasket better. I have run both in my truck. The 6.9 always seemed to sound alot smoother, but when adding upgrades the higher horsepower/torque is easier to obtain with the 7.3.

Sweet thanks guys. So anyone know how to pull this injection pump? Pulled the 3 nuts off and the four bolts on the oil fill cover and not much is happening

Mark the timing mark before you pull the pump. I use a scribe. This will give you a starting point when you re-install it.

Ive seen that these need to be timed through the IP where is the mark?

The timing marks are on the mounting surface (timing chain cover) where the two meet. You should see a mark on the pump and marks on the cover. I don't currently own a 7.3 truck so I can't show you.

You really dont need to keep track of the timing on your stock pump especially if you are upgrading. Every pump will have a slightly different base timing and will need to be timed with a timing light. To remove the pump, remove the feed line and fitting from the back of the pump, return line, throttle cable and throttle cable bracket from the intake manifold, remove the three 12 point bolts behind the lemon shaped cover under the oil fill, then remove the three 9/16 nuts, loosen all the lines at the injectors and pull the pump up and out. Check out some of my build threads for ideas for your project, there's quite a bit you can do with these engines to make them perform really well by modern diesel standards. Checkout my website for all your performance parts needs

ClassicDieselDesigns.com

Thanks guys. @Thewespaul I actually bought a rear tank kit from your site. I run Aesthetic.metals on instagram. Ive talked with you there. I will be buying stud kit/injectors/IP from you and need help on what to get

Just for future reference, don't remove the injector pump housing with the engine in running condition when changing the pump. Leave it bolted down to the block and only remove the pump. If you remove the housing, you can get your pump to cam timing off. Since you're rebuilding your engine, it doesn't matter at this point.

Also be sure you have all the fuel line vibration clamps when you reinstall. Missing 1 on driver's side (unless you removed).

Ok will do. Next question. After pulling my intake and heads what should i be looking for as far as cylinders? I know u gotta pay attention for any ridge at the top and look for a nice crosshatch but other than that I dont know

Ok will do. Next question. After pulling my intake and heads what should i be looking for as far as cylinders? I know u gotta pay attention for any ridge at the top and look for a nice crosshatch but other than that I dont know