Betsy the Worktruck

79jasper · May 28, 2020

Don't necessarily "need" it. Do you have a separate switch for the cargo light? Iirc some did, some didn't. Likely just keeping the dome light from coming on if you turn on the cargo light. Or Visa versus.
Test it and see.

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Scotty4 · May 28, 2020

I only have three switches in my truck, headlight, dimmer, and wipers. Aside from the heat that is.

79jasper · May 28, 2020

I'm trying to remember if turning the interior lights on via twisting the switch turns on the cargo light or not. I believe opening the door does.
Think of a diode as a check valve.

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Scotty4 · May 28, 2020

I’ll play with the switches when I get home and test the Diode. If I get continuity both sides I’ll change it out.

chillman88 · May 28, 2020

Scotty4 said:
I’ll play with the switches when I get home and test the Diode. If I get continuity both sides I’ll change it out.

Depends on what you mean by that. A diode should allow current to flow in only one direction. I'd test it with a test light. Power to one side and light on the other. Then switch sides. Should only illuminate the light in one direction.

Nevermind, I think I get what you mean now. Had to read it three times because I'm slow today lol

Scotty4 · May 28, 2020

If I’m not mistaken, diodes go anode to cathode. Is this backwards? The arrow is pointing upstream.

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Scotty4 · May 28, 2020

Something is fishy here. EVTM shows cargo light getting BK/LB and LG/Y the BK/LB having the diode. Yet in my truck, the BL/PK has the diode and is going to the cargo. Looks like I need to unwrap this maybe

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Scotty4 · May 28, 2020

But the factory wiring diagram shows mine to be correct.

david85 · May 28, 2020

Just finished getting caught up on this thread.

My compliments on using Tig welding for your floor metal. You're only the second guy I've seen so far to use Tig instead of Mig. Makes for a nice, water tight weld that you won't have to grind afterwards. No spatter either, so all your glass stays safe. Any welding spatter or grinding sparks WILL embed into exposed glass, so be careful about that.

As for the cargo light, mine comes on when you manually turn on the dome light at the headlight switch. You'll feel a notch when you rotate the knob all the way counter-clockwise.

The floor switch for the high beams probably failed open and disabled the headlights. I suspect that's why the jumper was put in. Hopefully the wiring wasn't hacked anywhere else.

Scotty4 · May 28, 2020

david85 said:
Just finished getting caught up on this thread.

My compliments on using Tig welding for your floor metal. You're only the second guy I've seen so far to use Tig instead of Mig. Makes for a nice, water tight weld that you won't have to grind afterwards. No spatter either, so all your glass stays safe. Any welding spatter or grinding sparks WILL embed into exposed glass, so be careful about that.

As for the cargo light, mine comes on when you manually turn on the dome light at the headlight switch. You'll feel a notch when you rotate the knob all the way counter-clockwise.

The floor switch for the high beams probably failed open and disabled the headlights. I suspect that's why the jumper was put in. Hopefully the wiring wasn't hacked anywhere else.

Thank you very much! Being a welder has its perks. Mig welding certainly has its place but if you can get the gap tight and clean, tig all day.

I just put the knob back on to my switch and rotated it... it clicked over. Battery is disconnected currently but I never thought to try that! I replaced the switch when I bought the truck and never thought. At least the connectors have been cleaned and the light sealed in my troubleshooting.

What a dummy.

Selahdoor · May 28, 2020

My cargo light comes on either way. By the door being opened. Or by turning the light switch all the way on.

Either way, both the cargo light, and the dome light come on.

Scotty4 · May 28, 2020

The bullnose switch must be different. My dome only came on when the door was opened. Now I’ll have to assume when clicked to the left, both lights will come on. Diode tested good just now so it must have been operator error.

snicklas · May 29, 2020

Honestly, I think how the cargo light works (if it even had a cargo light, since in some generations it was an option) changes. If seen them with only the headlight switch turning them on, or the door and switch. I think even older trucks (or maybe it was a chubby) had an actual cargo light switch inside the cab.

On my 11 F-150 XL, it only works with the door open (unless I just haven’t figured the trick out yet). Dad’s 16 XLT works with the door, and he has lights inside the bed with a switch by the tailgate..... those are really nice.... it lights up the entire bed.....

Scotty4 · May 29, 2020

Is there a consensus here on where to mount those three gauge brackets? Ive seen them under the dash mainly and wondering if it gets in the way of legs and shifters?

79jasper · May 29, 2020

Scotty4 said:
Is there a consensus here on where to mount those three gauge brackets? Ive seen them under the dash mainly and wondering if it gets in the way of legs and shifters?

I would want them in my line of site. Piller, dash, overhead console.

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