Another glow plug problem.

Now my system seems to work but the engine will not start. The wait to start light stays on the usual 8-10 seconds.

It just cranks and cranks. Once it does start after 10 or so seconds it does not rev up like it does when I had air intrusion


Can the GP relay light the light on the dash without sending power to the glow plugs?

Yes.

Ok so since anything electrical completly befuddles me what about that thing that looks like a starter solonoid from a 70's ford car or truck?

Isn't that part of the system too? Where do I start?

My answer was technically incorrect. Since the 'relay', (That starter solenoid looking thing that you mention), cannot turn on the wait to start light.

I'll try to break this down into simple steps.

The wait to start light is turned on by the controller. (The box that the relay sits on top of.)

The controller is also supposed to switch the relay, or solenoid, whichever you want to call it. (That starter solenoid looking thing.)

With the 'solenoid' switched, IT should send current out to the GPs. (The current goes out through that ribbon looking thing.)

If you have a bad relay/solenoid, the controller may be working, but no juice is getting to the GPs. You need to jumper that solenoid with something beefy, and test for voltage at the GPs. (Set up the meter or a simple noid light, at the GP. THEN jumper the solenoid and watch for the result.)

Or you could just replace the solenoid, without testing.

Or you could go with a manual setup like Wes sells. (Easy to replace, using his kit.)

If your 87 is like my 89, you have a voltmeter in the dash. When most of my glowplugs are working, the dash gauge will go way down to something like 8v when they are working. If your volt gauge doesn't drop way down, that is another clue that most or all of the glowplugs are not getitng power.

franklin2 said:

If your 87 is like my 89, you have a voltmeter in the dash. When most of my glowplugs are working, the dash gauge will go way down to something like 8v when they are working. If your volt gauge doesn't drop way down, that is another clue that most or all of the glowplugs are not getitng power.

Click to expand...

I know that just 1 bad glow plug will make the controller click a lot and the light go off instead of staying on 8-10 seconds.

The solenoid I thought had something to do with the glow plugs is for the starter. Figured that out @ lunch when I put 12v to it. So like usual I am lost.
A few years ago I had trouble 200m from home and had to cut the big wire that feeds the glow plug system. I later repaired it but I am wondering If I should untape my repair in case it's causing too much resistance before I start throwing parts at it.

Check the wire at your splice. And also check the wires at the factory plug, unless you have already redid that connection. The truck originally had two wires going side by side from the solenoid to a plug sort of in front of the A/C box. It has a bunch of little wires in the plug also. The two larger wires that feed the glowplug system like to melt in that plug causing a poor connection there.

Ya I already cut that connection out.