NAPA Echlin Ignition vs Motorcraft Glow plug relay comparison - with pics

We have to support our members.

They support us.

These guys have posted innumerable tidbits of info here. They show an interest in this stuff.

When it comes to something real picky, I want somebody who has been in these things - a lot - and has already made the special jigs one needs to do the job right.

It doesn't have to be fancy, or expensive. An automotive hydraulic jack may make an excellent pop tester - in the hands of someone who knows what he's doing.

Look at what these guys post and tell me they aren't this nation's best, and you won't find people like this working for someone else. They have to have the freedom to do it right. These kind of folks take it personally... it's not a corporate thing.

Should I need a set of injectors, pump, or whatnot, you better believe I am looking to these guys to fix me up, with something they have personally went through and bench tested so I do not end up becoming an unwilling part tester with neither knowledge or testing gear.

BeastMaster said:

We have to support our members.

They support us.

These guys have posted innumerable tidbits of info here. They show an interest in this stuff.

When it comes to something real picky, I want somebody who has been in these things - a lot - and has already made the special jigs one needs to do the job right.

It doesn't have to be fancy, or expensive. An automotive hydraulic jack may make an excellent pop tester - in the hands of someone who knows what he's doing.

Look at what these guys post and tell me they aren't this nation's best, and you won't find people like this working for someone else. They have to have the freedom to do it right. These kind of folks take it personally... it's not a corporate thing.

Should I need a set of injectors, pump, or whatnot, you better believe I am looking to these guys to fix me up, with something they have personally went through and bench tested so I do not end up becoming an unwilling part tester with neither knowledge or testing gear.

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I feel the same way. I gave up on the whole "try to find the cheapest part possible" thing a long time ago. I feel that quality isn't expensive, it's just worth it.

I have started to look for inexpensive not cheep.

I will pay more for something to only have to change it once. So If I pay $200 for a part, and never touch it again, vs $100 for a part that I get to warranty every 6 months. That $200 part was the inexpensive one... Between working full time, 5 kids, 3 grandkids, 3 vehicles, 2 tractors and a house, most of the time my TIME is much more valuable than spending less on a part. I’ve gotten to the age that I will take the time and money to do it right..... that way I don’t have to make time to do it twice....

Heck, I am working from home for the time being, and I’ve gained 10+ hours a week since my commute time is 30 seconds (across the room) rather than an hour each way, and that still hasn’t helped.

That is why, now that I am looking to replace the washer and drier, and have even considered a Zero-Turn instead of the tractor to save mowing time, I am spending time researching the options, so that once they are here, they do their job and I don’t have to mess with them, the reason the front loaders are getting fired and replaced with top loaders, I’m tired of having to work on them.

Sometimes the lowest cost item is just fine, or sometimes better (on some thinks we prefer the house brand of food items) sometimes it’s better to step up and buy the good brand (I.E. Motorcraft instead of Cardone)......

nelstomlinson said:

200A steady current once they warm up, divided by 8 glow plugs, is going to be about 25A per plug. 10ga wire should be able to handle that indefinitely. I've heard that the plugs cannot handle glowing much longer than 10 seconds, so the plugs will probably fail open before anything else gets damaged.

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In my experience, zd9s glowed longer than 10 seconds (without the resistor on the oem controller) can be pretty inconsistent as far as reliability/life. Any truck I convert to manual control
gets a different plug.

Black dawg said:

In my experience, zd9s glowed longer than 10 seconds (without the resistor on the oem controller) can be pretty inconsistent as far as reliability/life. Any truck I convert to manual control gets a different plug.

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What different plug do you use?

nelstomlinson said:

What different plug do you use?

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I’ve heard of people using the ones from the Buick V6 diesel from the 80s apparently they’re rated for continuous use. This is not an endorsement of them though, just saw it in a forum.

I have used that plug, and they wont burn out, but heat very slowly and never get as hot as I would like.
THe plug that I like with manual control is the bosch 80034. I haven't seen a burnt out one (in probably 15-20 trucks) yet in the 10+ years I have been putting them in with manual control. I really should try a set with the oem controller.

Looking up by application they are for 6.5 diesels. bosch duratherm 80034. They are slightly slower to heat, but most people tell me that even when cold 15 seconds is usually enough.

Have done a couple with the 6.5 controller (on 6.9s)and these plugs and has worked really good too.

Just a heads up. I've been buying the 586-902 over here:
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/wh...Vpx-tBh3EYwXZEAAYAiAAEgLd0_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

About $65 delivered.


@Thewespaul

For the past 25 years, I've been drilling out the rivets on the solenoids, desoldering the coil wires and disassembling used units. The copper contacts are usually blackened causing poor contact. I buff the copper contact and disc surfaces, use silicone dielectric grease, resolder and reassemble, using 8-32 screws and nuts. I haven't ever had to buy a new one from the used supply I maintain. Now the solenoid is supposed to be sealed and filled with nitrogen, but I don't think that lasts so long anyhow. In any case, the epoxied electronics don't receive the brunt of the current, just switch the solenoid on. I also rewire using Anderson connectors to supply the glow plugs. Since resistance is measured to time the length the plugs are turned on, good contacts are essential that are uncorroded and of sufficient current carrying capacity. The originals simply won't do, as so many melted connectors out there will attest. You can see the circuit and its explanation using the patent numbers on the electronics housing using a search on Google patents.

I GET THAT THE NAPA SOLENOID MAY NOT BE BUILT WITH AS GOOD OF PARTS. MY QUESTION IS DOES IT OPERATE LIKE AN OEM UNIT AS FAR AS FUNCTION GOES? I HAVE HEARD THAT OTHER GLOW PLUG CONTROLERS WON'T FUCTION QUITE RIGHT AND HEAT FOR THE PROPER AMOUNT OF TIME ETC. I WILL BE USING MOTORCRAFT GLOW PLUGS.

ALL CAPS is SHOUTING. Don't shout.

Yes, shouting, and also all caps is harder to read. We aren't using teletypes anymore, and we shouldn't pretend we are.

VanDiesel said:

I also rewire using Anderson connectors to supply the glow plugs.

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Could you show us a picture of that, please? I'm having a hard time imagining where you're using those connectors.

nelstomlinson said:

Could you show us a picture of that, please? I'm having a hard time imagining where you're using those connectors.

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Since he hasn’t been around for quite a while I’ll share my interpretation. I believe he’s talking about moving the wires that supply voltage to the relay from the under hood fuse block. The black rectangular harness connector is notorious for burning out on those pins in particular. I believe he was suggesting cutting the supply wires at that connector and installing the Anderson connector parallel with the rectangular connector.

Ah, that makes sense. Thanks, Brett.