New fuel filler neck, need expert advice

jericho

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I just purchase new front filler neck for my '93 f250. It is diesel but has a flapper "door" that I'm pretty sure wouldn't allow the use of the large spouts at truck stops.
I'm going to be pulling a 20" trailer long haul and I'm thinking I'll have to do some fueling at truckstops that may not have the smaller nozzle.
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this new filler neck has smaller diameter rubber hose also , and the internal vent for filling is way down the tube on the bottom where the fuel will probably choke the venting. Very disappointing. I bought a new one because the old has a lot of pinholes in it. Maybe I should solder the old one and forget the new one. Any thoughts please?Thanks
 

DaveBen

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The new one appears to be gasoline as seen by the small opening and vapor valve in the opening. Go with the large.
 

hesutton

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She's too small for your nozzle! LOL

Can't get a big rig pump nozzle in there.... Plus it would like take a month to fill a tank. TransferFlow used to make really nice filler necks for these rigs. I'd be shocked if they still do.

My F350 had the TransferFlow filler necks installed when I bought it. The F250 filler necks were modified to work like the TransferFlow ones. Can use the big rig pumps and get both tanks filled in a hurry and never spill a drop.

Heath
 

hesutton

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This is the home made mod's made to the F250's filler necks. The two inch body lift made the whole process easier.

Heath
 

ISPKI

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I recently replaced my rusting filler neck. They do make a filler that is just the filler door with a short ~3-4inch steel sleeve that you can put a hose on. I think its about 2" diameter, doesnt have that inner tube section but since it is so short, the fuel nozzle extends past the steel and dumps fuel direction in the flexible hose section. I installed it towards the middle of my flat bed, drops straight down into my tank. I think I could fill it with a fire hose.
 

jericho

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Thanks, I just checked out Transferflow, and yeah there oldest kit is for a '99 now, but they have that short neck ISPKI, and foot long one with a 45 degree bend which is shaped a lot like my original just a couple inches short. Hmmmm.. Think I'm gonna check out some 2" pipe bends also.
 

jericho

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Oh that new one I bought has that little door, it's bigger than a gasser, but just big enough to slip a small diesel nozzle in it.
 

aggiediesel01

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Thanks, I just checked out Transferflow, and yeah there oldest kit is for a '99 now.

I have the instructions from transfer flow that detail how the install goes and is helpful if you're building your own. I also built my own and they work well. I took some pictures of what I built and what transfer flow supplied with their kits. The fill necks can be built pretty easily if you can solder plumbing. You can make the vent returns a variety of ways but I choose to find and use the OE parts. The correct rollover valve was a ford part and was used on most cab and chassis trucks with the narrow frame. If you see one in a wrecking yard chances are that it has the correct rollover valves. Be careful retrieving them b/c they're fairly fragile by now. And get the rubber grommet, it's a little different too.

Pics and additional details in the comments are here:

https://www.oilburners.net/media/albums/diesel-fill-neck-mods-for-filling-at-the-big-diesel-pump.65/

View media item 773
 

Attachments

  • Transfer Flow Filler Neck Front.pdf
    153.8 KB · Views: 6
  • Transfer Flow Filler Neck Rear.pdf
    46.4 KB · Views: 4
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Garbage_Mechan

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I’ve been working on this for 2 trucks for a while......

Filler Neck Supply has both front and rear filler necks and the molded filler neck hoses.

The cab and chassis ( as well as RV) vent valve is available new for around $100. I didn’t buy any. Got a better way.

I’ll post some pics and part # of you prod me I suppose...
Computers and posting pics gives me a headache.....
 

franklin2

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This is the home made mod's made to the F250's filler necks. The two inch body lift made the whole process easier.

Heath

You need to do the above. Just knock the whole center out of the new filler and do the above vent modification. You will be able to fill much faster that way and use the big truck nozzles also. Basically you are taking the small vent line and roll-over valve out of the top of the tank, and substituting a larger piping system and making the top of the tank vent the main fill vent. Works wonderfully.
 

ttman4

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You need to do the above. Just knock the whole center out of the new filler and do the above vent modification.

Back in about '04-'06 or so I did my version of a mod on my '90 CC dually & my '92 4x4 IDI. Got tired of dribbling fuel in to fill up.

The '90 had a 4" body lift & that made things a bit easier. IIRC, trying to remember for sure all/how I did it all, but after I pulled fill tubes on both tanks on both rigs I knocked all that center stuff out of the fill. Did away with the existing vent setup.

I pulled the roll-over valve out & still have them out there on the shelf somewhere. I left the roll-over grommet in the top of the tanks. ( BTW, I figure that if I get upside down & need a roll-over valve..... well I'm already in deep trouble anyway LOL )

Anyway for the vent set-up I went to Lowe's or HD & got some PVC threaded 90* irrigation fittings or something similar, sized to fit/screw into the roll-over grommets snugly. (Last yr when I replaced my rear tank with a 38 gal Bronco tank I used 90* steel street 90)

I reduced the 90* down to where I could run 1/4" ID clear braided hose (from Lowe's) from the roll-over grommet/fitting up to near top of the fill tube. I then about 2"-3" down from top I Mig'ed a small 1/8" pipe fitting, with a 90*, then a short 1/8" nipple headed back down toward the tank. BTW, this vent stuff is all outside the fill tube, not anything inside.

Got it all hooked-up & back together with the original fill tubing, less the center stuff. The vent hose from the roll-over opening/grommet up to top of fill tube. Works great!! Both tanks on both rigs take fuel from truck pumps.

I'm happy!!!
 

hesutton

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You need to do the above. Just knock the whole center out of the new filler and do the above vent modification. You will be able to fill much faster that way and use the big truck nozzles also. Basically you are taking the small vent line and roll-over valve out of the top of the tank, and substituting a larger piping system and making the top of the tank vent the main fill vent. Works wonderfully.
Exactly... Works amazing! I search for big rig pumps with I need fuel. I'm so spoiled by the fast filling time, it kills me waiting for a regular diesel pump to fill the tanks.

Heath
 

jericho

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Those are some great plumbing set-ups for quick venting and fill. I'm sending back the new neck I bought and repaired the old one with hose. I think I'm going to do one of these upgrades when I pull the back tank.
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franklin2

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Back in about '04-'06 or so I did my version of a mod on my '90 CC dually & my '92 4x4 IDI. Got tired of dribbling fuel in to fill up.

The '90 had a 4" body lift & that made things a bit easier. IIRC, trying to remember for sure all/how I did it all, but after I pulled fill tubes on both tanks on both rigs I knocked all that center stuff out of the fill. Did away with the existing vent setup.

I pulled the roll-over valve out & still have them out there on the shelf somewhere. I left the roll-over grommet in the top of the tanks. ( BTW, I figure that if I get upside down & need a roll-over valve..... well I'm already in deep trouble anyway LOL )

Anyway for the vent set-up I went to Lowe's or HD & got some PVC threaded 90* irrigation fittings or something similar, sized to fit/screw into the roll-over grommets snugly. (Last yr when I replaced my rear tank with a 38 gal Bronco tank I used 90* steel street 90)

I reduced the 90* down to where I could run 1/4" ID clear braided hose (from Lowe's) from the roll-over grommet/fitting up to near top of the fill tube. I then about 2"-3" down from top I Mig'ed a small 1/8" pipe fitting, with a 90*, then a short 1/8" nipple headed back down toward the tank. BTW, this vent stuff is all outside the fill tube, not anything inside.

Got it all hooked-up & back together with the original fill tubing, less the center stuff. The vent hose from the roll-over opening/grommet up to top of fill tube. Works great!! Both tanks on both rigs take fuel from truck pumps.

I'm happy!!!

Interesting to get the specs on another vent modification. I used a copper elbow and short piece of pipe like the picture above. It's hard to find anything that makes a tighter 90 than that copper elbow, and you need it as tight as possible for the rear tank if you have a stock truck with no body lift. It's very little room on top of the rear tank to the bed. And also the copper is thinwall which gives you a lot of flow. But that being said, you used 1/4 ID hose which I would have thought to be too small but you said it works fine, so that is good to know. I used the copper and then used 1/2" ID hose to make sure I had enough area for the air to escape.

When you fill, do you stick the nozzle way into the fill neck so it's past your welded vent? I would think that would be the only way it would work and that would work well. That is how the vent system is configured on my 99 tahoe. GM put a extra nipple on the tank, and ran about 1/2 or 3/4 hose up to the fill neck up near the top. When I put the station nozzle in, the tip of the nozzle goes past this vent in the fill neck. So all the fuel comes out of the nozzle, and all the air escapes above the nozzle tip, not disturbing the fueling.

That is what it's all about. Getting all the fuel in and getting all the air out without them mixing and bumping against each other, causing gulping and splashing and cutting the nozzle off.
 
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