Doing install of Wes's turbo kit

84 4x4 said:

Having never seen a turbo setup, I put it on the wrong side. It's fixed now.
I need a new CDR to fit the turbo setup. Where can I get one?

Click to expand...

Not you bud.....In the pics graciously shared by hanc the CDR is mounted on the valve cover backward from its normal orientation. The nipple in the middle of the CDR/tuna can is normally facing the turbo but this one is custom mounted backwards with some long bolts. Only reason I can think of would be for a Road Draft Tube. I just didn't want any confusion for someone who's never seen one before.

Your CDR valve on the back of your intake is the correct one, it just has to be removed and mounted to the valve cover the correct way It's all in the instructions.

Engine installed. Fired up and ran rough for thirty some seconds and died. this was 3 days ago.
Still cannot get it to start.
Killed a set of tired batteries.
Put in new 850 cca batteries. Cranks like a bat outa hell now. Getting white smoke from exhaust.
Still not starting.
Pulled wire on IP solenoid with key on, heard clicking.
Pulled 3 glow plugs (Beru installed last summer) and hooked up to battery and nothing.

The glow plugs are on a manual switch, and they have worked for the last six months.
Looks like they are dead. they are wet when pulled out. not swollen or anything.

HELP!

Sounds like your relay failed or a wire came loose, you can stick a heat gun in the intake to get it to fire without plugs or ether.

Thewespaul said:

Sounds like your relay failed or a wire came loose, you can stick a heat gun in the intake to get it to fire without plugs or ether.

Click to expand...

I checked voltage at the glow plug connector, 12.57 volts on my Fluke meter. Is this the right voltage?

I took 3 glow plugs, connected them one at a time to jumpers on the battery positive to connector and negative to threads, and did not get hot, measured resistance from probe to threads and got 1.5 mega ohms. (don't know if this means anything)

12.57 at the glow plug connector is normal, that means voltage is getting past your relay and your wiring is good, must be you have enough dead plugs that it cant fire.

Did your controller fail in the on position like the 6.9 style is known to do?

Your glow plugs should read about 1 ohm. Yours is reading infinity ohms or open. No connection to the glow plug internally.

Replaced GPs with Beru. Now not getting any smoke out of tailpipe. After too much cranking, sometimes get a wisp of white smoke. keep trying to bleed lines at injectors, maybe I am letting air in?
When I crack open the fuel line at injector some but not all lines bubble little bubbles.
I left all the lines cracked open and cranked the engine. Will this work or am I letting air in?

If it was me, I wouldn’t try to bleed the injectors, I think you’re right about that is possibly letting air in. What I did after my rebuild to prime the system was simply cranked the engine in 10 second bursts with the throttle wide open till there was a wisp is smoke, then I hit the plugs and it fired right up. That’s just my two cents, and I don’t know if it is actually a good way of doing it

84 4x4 said:

Replaced GPs with Beru. Now not getting any smoke out of tailpipe. After too much cranking, sometimes get a wisp of white smoke. keep trying to bleed lines at injectors, maybe I am letting air in?
When I crack open the fuel line at injector some but not all lines bubble little bubbles.
I left all the lines cracked open and cranked the engine. Will this work or am I letting air in?

Click to expand...

Are you working under the hood while cranking and bleeding the injectors with a bump switch on the starter solenoid? If not, that's a much easier way to see and hear what's going on.

I wouldn't say that you're letting air in if you leave them all open but for sure it won't fire and or you won't get any smoke from any cylinder that has a loose injector line. Injector opening pressure comes from the IP so if there's anything that's compressable in the lines, like air, or a place for the fuel to escape to, like a loose nut, that cylinder won't be injecting much if any fuel.

I typically work under the hood with a bump switch and a jumper on the pump solenoid; tighten all the lines up, and then loosen the front line on one side and crank it till fuel dribbles out the top of the nut or 20sec whichever comes first. When I get fuel from the first one, I'll tighten it and move to the next one back and repeat. I've never had one take more than bleeding three injectors before it's trying to start on it's own. Then I'll pull my solenoid jumper/reinstall the wire and cycle the glowplugs and it roars to life. If you put more than two 20sec cranks and there's still no fuel at the first injector nut then you aren't getting fuel to the pump somehow. Double check that you've got at least a bit of pressure at your filter header by pushing the shrader valve (do 6.9s have these?) and make sure fuel is sputtering out. If not investigate why there's a lack of fuel there.

aggiediesel01 said:

(do 6.9s have these?)

Click to expand...

Yes they do as well.

Some say it isn't necessary to crack the lines to let the air out, that the injection pump will eventually push the air through the injectors and into the fuel return caps. But I've always bled the lines while cranking on mine.

Hold the throttle wide open, and have all the lines cracked loose. Use a remote switch on the starter solenoid, and crank the engine. While it's cranking, you tighten each line when fuel starts spraying from it. Once you get a few of them tightened the engine should try to run. When that happens, stop cranking, tighten the rest of the lines, return the throttle to idle, and it should fire up.

Finally, after beating my head against the wall and using up my brother in laws garage for a week. I found the problem.
The 90cc injection pump was crap.
Brother in law got so p-d off at this project, he pulled an electric pump of his truck and we hooked it up from a gas can full of diesel direct to the new 90cc pump and NOTHING.
I killed a set of batteries and Beru glow plugs because I thought it was something I was doing wrong!

When it was a bad rebuilt pump! Brother in law wants to shove that pump up somebodies you know what.

So I changed back to the old IP and had the truck running after 15 minutes of bleeding.

Before condemning the pump I wish you would have called me so I could walk you through a diagnosis on what could be your problem, it’s very common that guys will burn up the solenoid when priming a new pump because the key gets left on too long and it overheats the solenoid since there’s no fuel in the housing flowing and cooling it, also common on trucks that have been torn apart for engine rebuilds for water to get into the fuel while the truck sits and the fuel will go bad. Even slightly compromised fuel can prevent a freshly rebuilt pump from operating since all the tolerances are much tighter in critical areas such as the metering valve, which can very easily be rotated manually and freed up, I’m glad you got it running but there’s likely nothing wrong with your 90cc pump, and I think you would be happier with the performance of the truck with that pump, please give me a call sometime and I’d be happy to walk you through the steps to get it fired up on the 90cc pump

Thewespaul said:

Before condemning the pump I wish you would have called me so I could walk you through a diagnosis on what could be your problem, it’s very common that guys will burn up the solenoid when priming a new pump because the key gets left on too long and it overheats the solenoid since there’s no fuel in the housing flowing and cooling it, also common on trucks that have been torn apart for engine rebuilds for water to get into the fuel while the truck sits and the fuel will go bad. Even slightly compromised fuel can prevent a freshly rebuilt pump from operating since all the tolerances are much tighter in critical areas such as the metering valve, which can very easily be rotated manually and freed up, I’m glad you got it running but there’s likely nothing wrong with your 90cc pump, and I think you would be happier with the performance of the truck with that pump, please give me a call sometime and I’d be happy to walk you through the steps to get it fired up on the 90cc pump

Click to expand...

Ok, I spent a week trying to start it after work every night. I changed out the Ip and had it running smoothly in 15 minutes. So if there is nothing wrong with the 90cc pump, why will it not work, perhaps the solenoid got burned up. I was at my wits end on this. It fired up for maybe thirty seconds the night I installed the IP and never ran after that.....