Bite the bullet, Hydro-boost brakes

94 7.3 idit crew-cab dually. Guess it;s time to look at a brake conversion. It stops 'pretty good' empty, add a camper and kiss it good bye. So... A hydroboost coming this month and the rest next month.
I don't feel like playing with this in the cold quite yet.
She told me to spend money and made a bit of noses when I said a new rag top 'vette. . . Only 60K
So I guess I have to fix the truck instead.

Noiseydiesel said:

94 7.3 idit crew-cab dually. Guess it;s time to look at a brake conversion. It stops 'pretty good' empty, add a camper and kiss it good bye. So... A hydroboost coming this month and the rest next month.
I don't feel like playing with this in the cold quite yet.
She told me to spend money and made a bit of noses when I said a new rag top 'vette. . . Only 60K
So I guess I have to fix the truck instead.

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I'll be following along. Hopefully you'll post as you do the conversion. I'm planning on doing the same thing down the line and my truck is a '94 idit as well. Do you have a e4od or is it a zf5?

I have the E4OD and I got lazy and picked up the hyro-boost at Partsgeek for about $280.
Somehow the thought of another trip to the junk yard with my 3 month old new left knee didn't excite me.
Rockauto has the hoses and master cylinder, about another $80. That leaves me still searching for the power steering reservoir E5LY-3A697-A which I might pick up with a new pump attached. It is possible to just change the reservoir without changing the pump if you desire to go that way.
I will get those next month as I am not in a hurry to get this done. This truck is not a daily driver. I read of someone else doing the conversion and looks to be straight forward enough.
I believe I saw someone not changing the master cylinder and only made the mounting holes larger to accommodate the hydro-boost valve.
I anticipate the need to change out the rear wheel cylinders to new ones due to the potential increased pressure on old seals, might not be the best. Brake hoses need to be inspected for any cracks at the same time.

I enlarged the holes in the master cylinder when I did mine, I'm still running the old brake pedal because I haven't had a good chance to change it out for the correct one.

You can T your return lines if you want, did that on my old Silverado and never had any trouble from it.

On that front, it has been said the old master cylinder has two reservoirs and the new style only has one.
As for installing a "T" it was also said this slows the returning fluid and keeps the brakes applied a bit longer than desired.

Noiseydiesel said:

On that front, it has been said the old master cylinder has two reservoirs and the new style only has one.

Click to expand...

Hmm, not sure about that. I'll have to look. I have the new master, just haven't put it in yet.

Noiseydiesel said:

As for installing a "T" it was also said this slows the returning fluid and keeps the brakes applied a bit longer than desired.

Click to expand...

Possibly. All I know is it worked fine for years in my Silverado. I was lucky enough to actually have a second return on my F350 so I just used that.

I just know the correct reservoir is getting harder to find. I've seen a few reviews saying the pump that was supposed to come with the correct reservoir only had one return when they received it.

Looking for that dual line return turned up lousy results. I finally found a Lares 2349 on Rockauto.
About $75 later, it is on it's way. Still not doing this until next month.

I did mine, a couple years back when I replaced my steering box, I added a magnetic filter inline when I did the install as well. I also bought a tube/fin cooler for it, because I read the fluid could get hot, but due to time constraints I never installed it.

I used Merc V fluid, I have a slight whine with it, but I think it is most likey due to the junkyard HB setup I got, Ive read the type F or Lucus power steering fluid might be better, but Ill be danged if im gonna flush and fill it again lol

Any idea whether the rear discs from the old F-Superduty with the Dana 80 will fit on the 10.5" rear end?

I am not going to read thru another stack of brake posts...
My .02!
Buy the oem ford unit (IT COMES WITH THE PUSHROD)
Then pull the fulcrum pin off the brake pedal and relocate it....


Btw there is a tech 101 on here.