Biting the bullet: Converting to electric fuel pump

gandalf said:

Thank you for that. I was thinking I'd better go out and look at mine. I have no recollection of dealing with a ground strap when I replaced my lift pump. I was afraid maybe I'd left it off, and the truck was somehow still running.

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Well there are two so technically it should still run. One battery would be pretty mad at you though!

A good shot from below. As you can see, its kind of far up and it has frame to the side of it.

The pump is a bit cleaner now since I was feeling around on it a few days ago, trying to see where it was coming from.

I have the Holly Black pump with a regulator on my 94 turbo IDI also with R & D Stage 1 injectors.

Reading this thread is the first time I have thought of running two electric lift pumps. I put in a Facet Dura Lift model # 40295 that produces 9 - 11.5 psi, and have really enjoyed the ease of refilling the line and factory filter after a filter change. For pump longevity I put a simple barrel filter before the pump, and when that needed changing was the only time I have had my fuel pressure warning light go on. But, the idea of having two Facets in parallel to avoid those rare WOT fuel starvation issues should they ever arise in my rig, as well as redundancy, suddenly is interesting to contemplate.

7.3 turbo'd engine from the reman shop, but with the actual turbo replaced with a Hypermax Van Turbo kit. Upgraded to WW2 summer 2018 from R & D. Hypermax Van Cold Air Intake kit also installed, though I note its geometry is quite unlike the piping in Wes's intercooler project pictures. I think to install an intercooler in my van chassis would take some doing. I am thinking fuel filter head move to frame rail to make room for driver's side piping from a moved hood scoop.

What is your actual fuel pressure with that Facet pump?

The main reason I did dual Facet pumps is because I already had one on the truck which was basically worthless because of pressure drop under load. I had another one behind the seat. So for the cost of fittings and the time to build a bracket and plumb it I had a solution. It will still run on one pump just fine 90% of the time. My only 2 concerns are vulnerability of the plastic bowls to brush and rocks and the possible aireation of the fuel. With the lines wide open both pumps running it has bubbles in the fuel going into a clear jug. Restrict the flow a little like real world conditions and it does not. Still worry about it. Entrained air is a problem in any fluid dynamics.

I don't know what the actual fuel pressure is between the lift pump and the IP. I am left wanting to plumb a gauge in.

Does there exist a send unit to splice into the fuel line that would wire to a fuel pressure gauge in the cab?

DuRolf said:

I don't know what the actual fuel pressure is between the lift pump and the IP. I am left wanting to plumb a gauge in.

Does there exist a send unit to splice into the fuel line that would wire to a fuel pressure gauge in the cab?

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Is this what you are asking about?

https://www.amazon.com/GlowShift-Pr...words=fuel+pressure+tee&qid=1580234809&sr=8-4

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

DuRolf said:

I don't know what the actual fuel pressure is between the lift pump and the IP. I am left wanting to plumb a gauge in.

Does there exist a send unit to splice into the fuel line that would wire to a fuel pressure gauge in the cab?

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I think you are asking if there are fuel pressure gauges that will work for our application. Yes therefore are many 15 psi electric fuel pressure gauges. From cheap to$$$. The cheap ones have a pretty high failure rate on the sender. I think I’m going with a mechanical gauge mounted on the cowl outside the windshield. Need something a little more professional than the one that has been zip tied to the mirror bracket for the last few months.

Garbage_Mechan said:

I think you are asking if there are fuel pressure gauges that will work for our application. Yes therefore are many 15 psi electric fuel pressure gauges. From cheap to$$$. The cheap ones have a pretty high failure rate on the sender. I think I’m going with a mechanical gauge mounted on the cowl outside the windshield. Need something a little more professional than the one that has been zip tied to the mirror bracket for the last few months.

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I will just set my regulator pressure by hooking it directly to my HFT test gauge, then hook the hose to the filter head for use. Should be good enough. Pressure shouldn't change any unless the pump or regulator is going bad. It's not hard to pull the hose off to check the pressure if in doubt.

Garbage_Mechan said:

Need something a little more professional than the one that has been zip tied to the mirror bracket for the last few months.

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Different colored zip ties?

Based on what mechanical pumps say online, 5psi is what they are rated. Folks on here seem to aim for 7psi on electric pumps though.

Since I'm installing a 14psi pump plus an adjustable regulator, I need to know what I should set it to. Split the difference and set it to 6psi?

The regulator has fuel return for the excess, so it should keep a steady pressure once set.

I think I will oversize the power cable to 12 gauge since it's running a long way from the battery to the frame rail. 14 might be enough but why skimp and have problems?

That way I can route it safely without worry about voltage loss at the pump. 12ft of 12 gauge wire is only $6 at WM. I only have to run the positive wire that far, negative can go to the frame rail near the pump.

I got some 1/4" sheathing at HFT for $3 (plus free led light. I love those things!) to encase the wire on it's run.

I will be running a lower gauge wire (probably 14 or 16) for the fuel tank transfer pump in the sheath too, with a toggle switch at the driver's seat for turning it on/off while driving. Slight voltage loss to that isn't a big deal, as long as it's not crazy low.

What do you mean by "fuel tank transfer pump"?
Do you have multiple tanks and pump from one to another?

LowTech said:

What do you mean by "fuel tank transfer pump"?
Do you have multiple tanks and pump from one to another?

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That's his eventual plan.

LowTech said:

What do you mean by "fuel tank transfer pump"?
Do you have multiple tanks and pump from one to another?

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Yes, instead of using a fuel tank selector valve. Just turn on a pump to move fuel from the rear tank to the front, even when driving down the road.

In theory, you could use any tank from any vehicle that way, as long as it has a "carburetor" type sending unit pickup, like IDIs have. In other words, a tank without an internal fuel pump like on fuel injected vehicles. It would be a storage tank for transfering from, no fuel level gauge needed.

It's a roundabout way of doing it I suppose, but for now it's way cheaper than messing with a failure-prone fuel tank selector valve.

My front tank's gauge is pretty accurate, so I can judge how much I add to it from the rear tank. From half tank, I should be able to get it back to full once, twice if the shower head is still attached. If it's not, it would stop filling at about 3/4 tank level on the second transfer.

Either way, it gives at least 13 gallons more capacity without the screwy FSV. 17-18 if the shower head is there.

That's what I thought you meant. I'm doing that same thing on the three (will be four one day) fuel tanks I have on my deuce. Pumping from them into the one I keep as my "usable"tank. [emoji106]