Biting the bullet: Converting to electric fuel pump

Ilovelamp

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The switching of the pump isn't a big deal to me at all, I'll go ahead and do that. But I am curious about your diagram up there. The diagram shows filter-pump-regulator-filter. Are there still no pump options with an internal regulator? More of the question to me is why is the extra filter behind the regulator?
 

Cubey

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The switching of the pump isn't a big deal to me at all, I'll go ahead and do that. But I am curious about your diagram up there. The diagram shows filter-pump-regulator-filter. Are there still no pump options with an internal regulator? More of the question to me is why is the extra filter behind the regulator?

You want a strainer between the tank and pump to catch big trash so it doesn't ruin the pump. If you look at the pic I posted with the little green 12D pump, the plastic filter catches a lot of rust and whatever from the fuel tank.

For the 105p I ordered today, the instructions tell you to put a strainer between the tank and pump.

On my RV, the stock water separator was removed by someone before I got it. I already had a Racor I got a few years ago from a junkyard IDI but never did anything with. So, I want it for the WS.

So for the RV, I will have a 100 micron strainer to protect the pump, a 30 micron Racor for water separating, then the stock 6.9 fuel filter.
 

Ilovelamp

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I moved the stock filter set up to be the first thing from the pump. Should that be sufficient for the pump?
 

Cubey

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I moved the stock filter set up to be the first thing from the pump. Should that be sufficient for the pump?

That's how it is normally with the mechanical lift pump, so I'd say yes. Unless I'm missing something.

I now see that you have a 7.3. Your WS is part of the stock fuel filter, I think? On 6.9, it's a separate thing. There is no bowl on the bottom of the 6.9 filters.

I'd put a strainer of some kind between the tank and pump to protect it.
 

Ilovelamp

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I see I didn't realize the 6.9 was a different filter, I think I'll be good then!
 

Cubey

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I should probably mention why I'm so interested in an electric conversion.

On trucks, you can remove a splash guard in the wheel well to help gain access to the lift pump. (Not sure if that's limited to a certain body style or not.)

On my older van body, it appears that there is nothing you can remove in there. So it's much more difficult to install a pump, by the look of it. It's gonna be cramped, even with the vac pump removed.

It will be nice to yank the old pump, block off the hole and never have to mess around down there again.
 

ifrythings

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Yep get the reg as close to the pump as possible so it can factor in as much restriction as possible.

I’m not sure that’s such a good idea putting the regulator after the filter, if your filter starts to plug you will never know and at some point the differential pressure across the filter will be high enough to push all the trash through the filter and now you have nothing to save the IP.

At work (I work at a brewery) the main filter in filtering is a DE (Diatomaceous earth)filter that can take over 80psi differential pressure and not bleed through but it can only do this as the filter can compact itself, the secondary 1um bag filter which is small enough to catch DE and yeast cells can’t handle over 10psi differential pressure without pushing everything through. Now I understand one filter is for beer and the other for diesel but differential pressure across a filter can not be ignored in either case.

Looking at the 6.4L powerstroke low pressure fuel system they put the secondary filter after the regulator.

The only time I wouldn’t worry about filter push through is if your pump either is weak enough not to be able to create a high enough pressure across the filter or you have another regulator after the pump to prevent high pressures across your filters.

Here’s how 6.4 works
Tank->primary 10um filter->pump with 24psi relief valve->3psi main regulator->secondary 4um filter->high pressure fuel pump or idi IP in my case.

You must be registered for see images attach


I would definitely have a filter before the IP after everything else in the fuel system.
 

Thewespaul

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I’m not sure that’s such a good idea putting the regulator after the filter, if your filter starts to plug you will never know and at some point the differential pressure across the filter will be high enough to push all the trash through the filter and now you have nothing to save the IP.

At work (I work at a brewery) the main filter in filtering is a DE (Diatomaceous earth)filter that can take over 80psi differential pressure and not bleed through but it can only do this as the filter can compact itself, the secondary 1um bag filter which is small enough to catch DE and yeast cells can’t handle over 10psi differential pressure without pushing everything through. Now I understand one filter is for beer and the other for diesel but differential pressure across a filter can not be ignored in either case.

Looking at the 6.4L powerstroke low pressure fuel system they put the secondary filter after the regulator.

The only time I wouldn’t worry about filter push through is if your pump either is weak enough not to be able to create a high enough pressure across the filter or you have another regulator after the pump to prevent high pressures across your filters.

Here’s how 6.4 works
Tank->primary 10um filter->pump with 24psi relief valve->3psi main regulator->secondary 4um filter->high pressure fuel pump or idi IP in my case.

You must be registered for see images attach


I would definitely have a filter before the IP after everything else in the fuel system.
I would say I want your job but I’m pretty happy with mine!
My opinion is just maintain your filters, no reason a filter should be running that long to clog up and fail, if filters are changed every 10-15k miles shouldn’t be a problem, especially with a clear prefilter that is catching all the big contaminates.
 

IDIBRONCO

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On trucks, you can remove a splash guard in the wheel well to help gain access to the lift pump. (Not sure if that's limited to a certain body style or not.)

On my older van body, it appears that there is nothing you can remove in there. So it's much more difficult to install a pump, by the look of it. It's gonna be cramped, even with the vac pump removed.
I must have not ever thought about this. I've always just replaced the mechanical pumps from the bottom. Once the ground cable and anything else that attaches to the bolt is out of the way, it doesn't seem like that bad of a job to me. One more thing, removing the hard line between the pump and filter helps too.
 

Cubey

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I must have not ever thought about this. I've always just replaced the mechanical pumps from the bottom. Once the ground cable and anything else that attaches to the bolt is out of the way, it doesn't seem like that bad of a job to me. One more thing, removing the hard line between the pump and filter helps too.

A ground cable bolts on with the lift pump? Good to know.

Trucks have a bit more room down there than vans, I think. Removing it from the bottom is what I will try first, but failing that... the vac pump isn't that hard to pull by unbolting the bracket. Alt can probably stay. I will get a paved level driveway to work in as long as I need to.
 

IDIBRONCO

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A ground cable bolts on with the lift pump? Good to know.
No, it bolts to the block right in front of the lift pump. Sometimes it does help to remove the vacuum pump too. That depends on whether or not you want to remove it. There isn't any right way to do this, just different ways There are many wrong ways though. Examples would be putting the arm arm top of the cam lobe and forgetting to put something like the ground cable back on.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Plus, I've always found it easier to start the hard line loosely in the lift pump first, then put the top back onto the fitting at the filter. When both are finger tight, then fully tighten both ends. If you can't get the top of the line into the fitting, you can put a wrench on it and rotate it slightly and the put it back into place after the line is inside it. Don't forget to grind the top of your block off plate so it clears and doesn't leak oil, when you do put the electric on.
 

gandalf

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No, it bolts to the block right in front of the lift pump. ...


Thank you for that. I was thinking I'd better go out and look at mine. I have no recollection of dealing with a ground strap when I replaced my lift pump. I was afraid maybe I'd left it off, and the truck was somehow still running.
 
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