Dana 60 going in...eventually

david85

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Hmm....well I do like the concept of keeping dirt and other crap out of there. It keeps the axles clean and adds a layer of protection for the main differential axle seals.
 

chillman88

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Yeah I'm keeping an eye on this thread anyway because I'll be tearing into one in a couple months myself.
 

u2slow

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Personally, I like DANA/SPICER.
On cheap brands, I've had greasable and sealed units fail shortly. Ujoints and balljoints aren't something I like to mess with often, so I tend to at least start out at the upper price range parts.

I couldn't afford half the work I do if I bought in at the top end. I don't generally have premature failures on the cheap parts... and these are my vehicles too. Never been any good at the quick fix'n'flip.

IMO, contamination is the primary problem with most joints, especially axle ujoints. That's the reason I like greasable. Even cheap ones are plenty strong in a Dana 60... at least strong enough for stock axle shafts and an open diff. Also consider they don't see wear & tear when in 2wd. I'm giving the GMB brand a try next. A high-strength 1410 greasable (made in Japan) was $10 at rockauto. I found it interesting the note in the package specifies lithium grease only.

Unit bearings (and bearings in general to some extent) is one area I notice a quality difference. The gf's Jeep will go through cheapos in half the time of say a Timken.

Moog's value 'Quicksteer' line of TRE's I like. They are fullsize (OE size) joint and greasable. Some econo brands are a physically smaller joint despite having the right thread and taper.
 

david85

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+1 on contamination being a leading cause of failure. Water getting in from lack of greasing and lack of regular use would be probably the biggest reason I've had to replace any of these parts. That goes for I-beam kingpins as well. I'm also religious about keeping to stock tire sizes. I'm tempted to put a locker in, just because...not that I really need one. It's definitely a want, unless I can turn it into a need somehow.....:angel:

Anyhow, more progress. Outer knuckles and spindles are cleaned. I had to get a little creative with the puller to extract the needle bearings from the spindle. One of them had signs of rust on the rollers. The other looked okay, but might as well change both since they're so hard to get to.

You can also see from the photos that someone got real mad at the spindles. I think they're still serviceable but I might try to turn them on the lathe. They have been cleaned up a little but there's still a slight shoulder on the mating surface.

I finally got our new-to-us lathe working after sitting idle in the shop for nearly a year, so now I'm looking for excuses to use it.

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david85

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Here's what Coroseal looks like in action. It's similar to POR-15 but water based. Water based may not sound very good, but it seems to work well. Basically, its a rust converting primer. It goes on in an off-white almond color, then quickly turns dark purple before finally curing to a translucent black. Being low viscosity, and water based, it seems to quickly saturate the rust.

The first photo shows the stuff freshly applied, while the second one shows it with dark patches where the conversion process is occurring faster. If any spots stay white, it means more converter is needed. We've been using this in our shop for a few years and never been disappointed. The rear half of my truck frame got this treatment before a non-curing undercoating was applied.

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david85

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Here's the Coroseal next morning. There are still a couple spots where it was soft but it usually cures after leaving it to sit overnight. As with any other latex product, temperature and humidity plays a role. Right now, most naturalized people on Vancouver Island grow gills this time of the year. So yeah, humidity is a little higher at the moment.

The closeup shows some brown discoloration where there might be some contamination. Normally this would have to be stripped and reapplied, but since it's going to get marred by the balljoint nut anyway, I don't care. Overall it turned out pretty good. Time permitting, I should be able to paint it tonight.

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chillman88

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Looks like Ospho is an old-school phosphoric acid product, so it requires a rinse afterward. With Coroseal, it cures as a hard primer, so you don't have to worry about your rust converter causing even more rust (or interfering with your primer system).

http://corroseal.com/rust/convert-rust.aspx

Ospho "claims" to be self neutralizing....

What does corroseal do on unrusted metal? I have a very hard time "covering up" rust, but if I could wire wheel it good and then coat it, that would be great.
 

david85

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It still seems to work on raw steel but from what I understand, the rusted surface makes for a stronger bond. Having said that, it holds better than any primer I've used (except maybe for self-etching epoxy), especially if its very smooth metal. I'd suggest 80 grit sanding if you have very clean and smooth metal.

The hidden hitch on my truck was covered in thick rust scale and all I did was a quick wire brush (by hand IIRC). Once the loose flakes were off, I applied coroseal, and then covered with an oil based black paint. So far it's holding up better than a brand new receiver I bought for my Dad. In that case, the powdercoating is coming off in huge flakes;Pissed:***:

EDIT: Okay, I might not be 100% on how Ospho works. Usually the phosphoric acid products I saw/used required a rinse afterward but this might be different.
 
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chillman88

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So far it's holding up better than a brand new receiver I bought for my Dad. In that case, the powdercoating is coming off in huge flakes;Pissed:***:

Yes, the primary reason I HATE powder coating.

EDIT: Okay, I might not be 100% on how Ospho works. Usually the phosphoric acid products I saw/used required a rinse afterward but this might be different.

Well... I said it "claims" to not need a rinse. I haven't had great luck with it though. I've heard great things for cleaning surface rust, say on irreplaceable body panels, but that's using it to remove rust, not as a converter.

I'm glad you shared pictures of the corroseal. I'm very tempted to use it on my truck. Sure would save me a TON of time covering up the surface rust on this southern frame I have here. That coupled with your long term experience it might be the ticket.
 

79jasper

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The ospho doesn't really blacken. I'll try to remember to get some pics tomorrow.
The jug I had didn't mention a rinse. Sure does a number on galvanizing though.
Also I notice the corroseal being "eco-friendly."

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