How to check injection pump health?

ComatoseLlama

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Truck has 225k or 325k miles on it (maybe even 125k who knows), injection pump is visually new, and has a name from a shop in Alaska on it, but I'm not sure how good it is. Truck runs great though.
Injectors are apparently new but at the very least they didn't use a new install kit on them since they leak pretty good. There's a clicking noise but I'm not sure yet if that's an injector or the busted DMF.

Is there a process or service where I can check my pump? I'd rather not drop $600-1100 on injectors / IP quite yet if I don't need to. Have had no luck searching googlee and this forum for an answer

If I end up needing new injection stuff do I need the moose / typ4 stuff or are rockauto injectors / IP okay to use? Nearly a 70% price difference between the two, but I'm planning on running WMO so I probably need the better stuff anyway, right?

Thanks - CL
 

ComatoseLlama

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if you are going to run wmo, run the stuff you have until it gives you trouble.
If it ends up needing injectors should I get the cheaper ones if I'm doing WMO? From what I understand the rockauto injectors wont be pressure matched, unlike moose.

Is WMO bad for it? Everything i've read says a 60/40 mix is just fine for these dinosaur engines
 

ComatoseLlama

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Depends on how you're treating/cleaning your oil.

You should always only buy injectors or IP from Conestoga/typ4/classic diesel design/ or R&D. Matched set makes a difference and they stand behind their product.

Planning on washing, then filter down to 5 micron, then use a centrifuge like in the pic below to finish the oil. May run the diesel/oil mix through as well after heating. I have a plan for it using an electric motor or maytag engine and a power steering pump as my oil pump. Not sure how great that centrifuge is, most people seem to use the all in one units.



Someone near me sells 5 micron filtered for $1/gal, but I haven't been able to tell from research if 5 micron is filtered well enough. Would come out to around $1.60 a gal, making it just as cheap to run as my impreza.

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ComatoseLlama

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If WMO does wear out the IP/ injectors, how short does it cut the life?

Even if the life is cut by 20k miles (compared to 100k service life), I would save $8234 when paying $1.60 a gallon, including a new IP/Injectors after 100k, replacing pump at 80k.

Would save around $12,233 over 100k miles if using free oil and purchasing a nice oil centrifuge and IP/injectors at 80k. This is with diesel at $3.00/gal

That's $1,646-$2,446 a year for me at 20k a year. With a 55gpm centrifuge that's 24 hours of work, so I'd save $87 per hour of work spent filtering. Probably the best money I'll ever make haha
 
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chillman88

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I'm no expert, but I can't see where properly filtered WMO reduced to the proper viscosity should wear the fuel system any more than diesel.

From what I've seen it seems the biggest problem is people just dumping their WMO back into the fuel tank.
 

Black dawg

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THe problem is that I have yet to see wmo filtered to the point that it actually looks like clean oil. Expect about 50k mile pump and injector life with well filtered oil mixed 50/50 with diesel. It also doesn't burn as completely as diesel, so over time it will end up gunking up the rings, even with heavy towing to keep things clean. Im not against burning it, but it isn't as free as some folks like to think it is.
 
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