FIPL/TPS and Transmission problems

TurboMatt

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So I finally found a picture of the side of the pump.

Advance Auto website;
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...e_20960561-P_1277_R|GRPFUELAMS_933373052____#

If you look at the 3rd picture you'll see the area that drives the TPS. It sits flat just like on my pump. If you look at the other pump available (BWD brand) the pic looks exactly the same, flat in the section that drives the TPS. So, I can only assume that this is correct. I'm confused now....:dunno

Now I find this thread with two different pumps that are supposed to be IDI pumps. The section that drives the TPS is different on both pumps. Reference pics 2 and 3 in this thread.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rts-injection-pumps-fan-clutch-lines-etc.html
 
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eatont9999

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I think this has been mentioned before but the number 2 piece has two set screws that hold it onto the throttle shaft. It sounds like whomever installed your pump didn't set the TPS shaft adapter (if that is even what it is called) aka part number 2. You need to loosen it and advance it (counter-clockwise). I wouldn't go over 1/16 of a turn; just use your judgment or you will be readjusting and wasting time. The TPS should also have some resistance or be engaged when you install it and turn it into position. I would guess 1/8 turn of resistance.
 

TurboMatt

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I think this has been mentioned before but the number 2 piece has two set screws that hold it onto the throttle shaft. It sounds like whomever installed your pump didn't set the TPS shaft adapter (if that is even what it is called) aka part number 2. You need to loosen it and advance it (counter-clockwise). I wouldn't go over 1/16 of a turn; just use your judgment or you will be readjusting and wasting time. The TPS should also have some resistance or be engaged when you install it and turn it into position. I would guess 1/8 turn of resistance.

I do recall seeing two holes in the "#2 piece" however I didn't see any screws or allen head screws. I'm going to work on the truck tomorrow some so I'll be sure to take a closer look at the holes in the #2 piece.
 

eatont9999

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Yeah, there are two small Allan screws installed that hold the "number 2" fitting onto the throttle shaft. The Allan size is pretty small, I forget what size but you may need to clean out the screw heads if you don't see the octagonal head. Get them clean so you don't risk stripping the heads.

Now, if the person who installed the pump had no forethought at all, you may not be able to easily access the set screw nearest the bottom of the IP. I set mine so I could move the throttle and have access to both screws. Worst case is that you have to remove the IP and spin the #2 180 degrees to access both screws.

I am in the process of adjusting my TPS as well. I have my #2 connector just fine but I am working on fine tuning my shift points. I am unhappy so far because I want the truck to shift sooner so that I am not hanging at 2500RPM before it eventually shifts into 3rd gear. It seems like a waste of fuel to me.
 

LCAM-01XA

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I think this has been mentioned before but the number 2 piece has two set screws that hold it onto the throttle shaft. It sounds like whomever installed your pump didn't set the TPS shaft adapter (if that is even what it is called) aka part number 2. You need to loosen it and advance it (counter-clockwise). I wouldn't go over 1/16 of a turn; just use your judgment or you will be readjusting and wasting time. The TPS should also have some resistance or be engaged when you install it and turn it into position. I would guess 1/8 turn of resistance.

Agreed on the need to repositioning the "duckbill" piece (part #2), however you got the direction of rotation mixed up - when looking at the thing from the driver-side fender, to "advance it" one needs to turn it clockwise, in the same direction it turns when the IP throttle shaft moves from idle to WOT. Turning counter-clockwise to raise the voltage applies to the TPS.

I just looked at my truck, with the pump at idle I have one set screw pointing straight up, and the other is facing straight forward towards the gear housing. Without loosening them I can't tell which is in the set hole and which is just added "insurance", but they are both visible and easily accessible with a small allen wrench (messing with the one facing forward would obviously require moving the throttle shaft some). However, looking at the OP's pics, it seems to me that someone's positioned the "duckbill" piece with the set screws facing down, likely one down and to the front of the engine and the other down and to the rear, which would make them hell to get to (especially the rear-facing one). If you move the throttle shaft to WOT you may be able to see at least one of the screws, having the TPS bracket off the IP will help with visibility issues.
 

TurboMatt

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Good news!

Made lots of headway with the truck today. First thing, the #2 piece (as refered to in this thread) was off. There was one allen screw which was located on the bottom of the fitting. I pulled the screw out and rotated the piece clockwise (looking in from the drivers side). I re-installed the TPS, ended up starting at .9 volts but the truck shifted very firm and early still. I tried 1.0 then 1.1 but the shifts were still all wrong and no change on shift firmness.

So, I pulled the negative battery cables in hopes that this would clear computer of any fault codes (limp mode)....no luck, still very firm and in-consistent shift points. I remembered a 94 Mustang I had years ago doing simlar stuff and ended up being the range sensor (Ford calls it's the MLPS I think) on the trans was bad. So, I picked up a new range sensor which also came with an updated wiring connector and installed it, reset the batteries, and viola', trans shifts beautfully! At .90 volts shifts felt very soft and normal. I ended up bumping the TPS voltage up to .95 then 1.0 and ended up at 1.05 which results in good solid shifts.

A few questions though (may need to start a new thread). With the TPS at 1.05 at idle, full throttle shifts happen at 3200-3300 rpm. I assume his is safe for this engine? Also, I noticed at WOT there is no black smoke. I'm not sure if this should be an issue but I want to make sure since the injection pump was very recently installed.

Thanks for all the help!
Matt
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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Good news!

Made lots of headway with the truck today. First thing, the #2 piece (as refered to in this thread) was off. There was one allen screw which was located on the bottom of the fitting. I pulled the screw out and rotated the piece clockwise (looking in from the drivers side). I re-installed the TPS, ended up starting at .9 volts but the truck shifted very firm and early still. I tried 1.0 then 1.1 but the shifts were still all wrong and no change on shift firmness.

So, I pulled the negative battery cables in hopes that this would clear computer of any fault codes (limp mode)....no luck, still very firm and in-consistent shift points. I remembered a 94 Mustang I had years ago doing simlar stuff and ended up being the range sensor (Ford calls it's the MLPS I think) on the trans was bad. So, I picked up a new range sensor which also came with an updated wiring connector and installed it, reset the batteries, and viola', trans shifts beautfully! At .90 volts shifts felt very soft and normal. I ended up bumping the TPS voltage up to .95 then 1.0 and ended up at 1.05 which results in good solid shifts.

A few questions though (may need to start a new thread). With the TPS at 1.05 at idle, full throttle shifts happen at 3200-3300 rpm. I assume his is safe for this engine? Also, I noticed at WOT there is no black smoke. I'm not sure if this should be an issue but I want to make sure since the injection pump was very recently installed.

Thanks for all the help!
Matt

Glad to here it is all better.;Sweet

Sorry i can't help with the upshifts but you might want to try advancing (towards passenger side) the IP a dimes width or so and take for a test drive. i ended up advancing mine 2 dimes and it made a world of difference and now i get a haze of black smoke on accel. and i can kind of roal coal now.;Sweet
 

LSOSGT1109

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Good news!

Made lots of headway with the truck today. First thing, the #2 piece (as refered to in this thread) was off. There was one allen screw which was located on the bottom of the fitting. I pulled the screw out and rotated the piece clockwise (looking in from the drivers side). I re-installed the TPS, ended up starting at .9 volts but the truck shifted very firm and early still. I tried 1.0 then 1.1 but the shifts were still all wrong and no change on shift firmness.

So, I pulled the negative battery cables in hopes that this would clear computer of any fault codes (limp mode)....no luck, still very firm and in-consistent shift points. I remembered a 94 Mustang I had years ago doing simlar stuff and ended up being the range sensor (Ford calls it's the MLPS I think) on the trans was bad. So, I picked up a new range sensor which also came with an updated wiring connector and installed it, reset the batteries, and viola', trans shifts beautfully! At .90 volts shifts felt very soft and normal. I ended up bumping the TPS voltage up to .95 then 1.0 and ended up at 1.05 which results in good solid shifts.

A few questions though (may need to start a new thread). With the TPS at 1.05 at idle, full throttle shifts happen at 3200-3300 rpm. I assume his is safe for this engine? Also, I noticed at WOT there is no black smoke. I'm not sure if this should be an issue but I want to make sure since the injection pump was very recently installed.

Thanks for all the help!
Matt

Hey, I have sort of the same problem as you had except I can get my TPS to adjust within low voltage range just fine but no matter what it is set at on idle (low voltage), it still won't get above 3.65 at WOT. I've tried 2 new TPS and all have the same results. No matter what I have it set at, I still get late, hard shifts, flashing OD light, and a code 23 (TPS out of range) on the reader. I think I may have a MLPS problem too. Where did you get a new MLPS?
 

Selahdoor

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I really wish the pics still worked in this thread.
 

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