Remove injectors without removing pump?

Hi all, Can anyone point me towards injector removal procedure without removal of the pump? I want to take them in for pop testing but would prefer not removing the pump. Any advice would be appreciated.

Not sure why you would need to remove the pump, at most you have to move the hard lines out of the way.

Yeah you can just gently move the lines to the side, I've done it. Just be careful and DON'T kink or bend the lines.

You'll have to untorque several lines at once to get enough ability to move the lines out of the way. Undo all 4 on each side at once.

You should never have to pull the pump just gently move the hard lines out of the way. Now you will have to deal with the return lines, make sure you have new o-rings once you get your injectors back unless you want the most unholy mess ever.

If you disconnect your hard lines from your injectors
BE VERY CAREFUL to NOT change the angle of the threaded nut
that attaches to the injectors or you may cross thread them when you re-attach them.
It's a very costly mistake.
Re-attach them using fingers (no wrenches to get them started!)
If you feel ANY resistance when tightening, STOP, back them off
and try again.
Removing the pump WITH the hard lines attached is the best way
IF you have to take the pump out as putting the hard lines on the lower
part of the pump back on is a pain in the butt.

I had to have my pump re-built and after much frustration trying to find
any tool to tighten the hard lines on the lower pump connections I had to
take the pump back out and attach the lines LOOSELY in order to line them
up with the injectors to prevent cross-threading on the injectors (which I did
earlier before finding out the pump was the problem).

The line tightening tool is about $200 on the internet.
Most people make their own tool by bending an open-end wrench
and grinding it down to be thin enough.

I used a crowfoot and off-angle open-end wrenches.

The most important tool is PATIENCE!

Thanks for the replies folks. short on patience for the injector line removal I took off the pump and lines complete and then went on to struggle with a couple injectors. I think for all the work involved it's as good a way to go even to get at just the injectors. The pump bolts were something I was familiar enough with and removing the pump/line assembly was not to bad a PITA. Gonna try and acquire a 12 point 5/16ths socket tho for reassembly.

I suppose it would be worth having the pump bench tested. It's not a leaker and has a service sticker with the truck at 350k KM +/-. I do get a lot of smoke and I'm not sure I like that. smoke definately went down when I advanced the timing some time ago but I'm struggling with smoke on cold start up and it's worsening. Also, a cylinder does not fire for a bit when cold. But cost is an issue not sure what spinning it up on the test bench would or should be and what all I would get into for all the trouble an old work truck is worth.

cylinders 4 and 6 were not cooperative and 4 especially seemed heat baked. I found oily injectors on the 3 and 5 especially on the passenger side making me wonder about the oil control and compression. Valves on cylinder 4? Will see what I discover with the test.

Thanks '92, I'd definitely prefer going the less mess route. now to drop in re-bushed front springs and shackles and the missing plow bracket. oh, and assess glowplugs and may be restore timer module with one from a later 90's van. Thanks again.