Project: The New CDD Shop Truck

ocnorb said:

Just an FYI. I've done alot of video and not had much luck with the GoPros lasting.

Been using a Sony FDR-X3000 for 2 years now and it's better in every way. Easier to turn on, setup and has great stabilization system. My .02.

GoPro let me down too many times.

Click to expand...

Thanks! These things are outside my expertise so I appreciate the advice. I’ll look into the Sony

I watch a lot of videos on You Tube where the guy who makes them uses a Sony. He raves about how good it is. I do think that's the way to go. I also think that the term"Go Pro" may be getting to the point of being a general description of a type of product like "Band Aid" is.

Little idle clip..https://www.facebook.com/528663397623078/posts/647532075736209?sfns=mo

Finally got some fresh tires on the truck. Pro Comp 285/75/16 in the rear, and Bridgestone LTH 265/75/16 in the front. Very pleased with them so far.

Couple weeks back my fabricator finished up cutting out the final revised flange for a new product that deletes the wastegate port and has a 3 inch the v band right off the back of the turbo. I built a simple 3” hood stack off the v band from a selection of bends from some downpipe pieces I had laying around. I wanted to test deleting the wastegate port by blocking it off physically because I have been getting a feeling that the wastegate flap is bending when I am pushing 40 psi of back pressure, it just seems to hit a plateau up top. After installing the hood stack I noticed a significant improvement in mid to high range response in the turbo, there was definitely some leakage has the wastegate under heavy boost.

Getting the truck ready for the dyno day next weekend, I knew I needed to replace the leaking intercooler. I wanted to upgrade walls in there so I got the CX racing exact same size in a cooler. I took a few pictures but my phone was dirty so they didn’t come out great but hopefully it shows some differences in the $80 Versus $180 intercoolers. The CX racing intercooler was much better built, and probably weighed three times as much. When I was in there I replaced a couple boots and clamps and tidied up a few boost leaks.

adding a more efficient air cooler I expected to see slightly less boost from the temperature drop, but fixing some of the small boost leaks must’ve added a little bit because it is a consistent 18 psi regardless of outside temp now.

Last oil change I gave the power driven diesel oil is shot and picked up some of their ATF for my trans as well. I want to say 4 gallons of oil and 5 quarts of ATF was around $160 shipped.

All seems like a good product, looking forward to getting some miles on it. My trans fluid has probably 30,000 miles on it which isn’t terrible, but when I drain the fluid it looked pretty bad. The fluid was gray and had some sparkles, so I am trying to secure a back up ZF5 before the event in case it grenades on the dyno or earlier, The trans still works fine but definitely has some sick synchronizer issues but for 300,000 miles and use behind three modified engines it’s done his part.

Next I want to try a little tuning on the 150 pump and see if I can get some more fuel out of it, May try to get it back on the stand and crank it up some more but I’ll see if I have time before next weekend.

What kind of power are you comfortable consistently putting through a zf5?

You might have to start doing the ZF6 upgrades

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

People put over 500 through a zf5 so I don’t think it will be an issue, this is just from continued synchronizer issues combined with some hard driving over many miles. My plan is to swap this trans out with the spare, then have this trans gone through at super stick transmission just north of me, those guys specialize in the nv and zf diesel trans and have some upgrades to really make these zf5s shift quick. A friend who has a zf/5.9 fumnins build picked up a second in the quarter mile just from the trans rebuild.

As long as a person isn't dumping the clutch every shift, should hold quite a bit. Holding up behind higher hp powerstrokes,

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

79jasper said:

As long as a person isn't dumping the clutch every shift, should hold quite a bit.

Click to expand...

Well this kind of counts Wes out then doesn't it?

I kinda doubt he's doing that.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Maybe not every time, but he does it way more than I do.

Fresh cerakote on the shop trucks nitrous bottle!

Looking good Wes!
I've been trying to contact you.
I know that you are busy, but please reach out when you have a moment...

Okay, overdue recap from the IDI Roundup and a day of racing in the truck. Last time the truck made some passes at the track the axle hop was horrible, eventually I will be building some proper traction bars but I wanted to experiment with clamping the overload springs to tighten up the spring pack and get less rebounding when the leafs unload off the line. I used some simple 3" u-bolt trailer spring hardware to clamp the overload like how the factory clamps the front of the springs.

That really helped tighten up the rear end and actually made a huge improvement in the axle hop. I filled the nitrous bottle and had it setup for a hundred shot, but never used it. When we made it to the track the DA was still pretty high, I pulled the grille off to get more airflow over the intercooler and fuel cooler. I didnt change the tuneup at all from what I daily drive with, the procomp tires I set at 45 psi and didnt need to do a burnout to heat them up, they stuck really well off the line but the clutch did not. First pass coming right off the street was the best all night since the clutch just got worse throughout the night even after taking some power out to try and get it to hold. I didnt beat my personal best but had a great time, the track stuck really well and other than the clutch slipping mechanically had no dramas, even with hot lapping it with no engine fan. Heres the time slip for the first pass, and a video courtesy of @Frankenwintch!




Depending on what calculator you use, using the trap speed and vehicle weight horsepower is estimated between 325 and 375 at the wheels, about a hundred more than what people say the stock turbo will support, and this is still fuel only. As soon as my dyno guy has his dyno back up and going Ill be running this truck, a few customer trucks and a new project truck Ill be starting on soon. I won't have time to replace the clutch before then, so we will see how much it can hold on the loaded dyno.

Moving forward, I am hoping to schedule a week or two to go through the truck. I have a 38 gallon tank I will be installing, deleting all the stock fuel lines, running a sump with big fuel ports, building traction bars while the bed is off, installing a 13" southbend clutch, replacing the broken plastic headlight supports, installing a new rad, mounting the 105p near the rear tank to supply the GSL392 in the engine bay, and redoing the intercooler piping. The front end is in desperate need of some work, with 300k miles on it the ride has gotten pretty rough. I plan on replacing the springs in all four corners, lowering the truck down a bit, replacing the steering shaft and box, the clunking radius arm bushings, and the sagging body mounts. It also needs some electrical work, I want to put a headlight relay kit back in, and improve my gauge setup, but we will see how much time I get for any of that.

Very nice Wes! Wish I could have been there. Planning in a couple years on moving back to TX.

Can't wait to make more videos when u get it going good had lots of fun. Hopefully it's done for the next meet in spring.