A cold start story

When I bought the truck it always had to be plugged in, glow plug system didnt work. So I replaced the controler with a RX and new ZD9 plugs. #8 is stuck so I installed a new glow plug into a peice of pipe and mounted it to the rear block eyelet so tye system would work properly. (Someday ill do ARP studies and remove bad gp) at the same time I repaired my gp harness.

This set up lasted me about 6 months. After replacing my IP and injectors, as well as switching to an electric LP, I kept having cold start issues. New block heater and she fires up amazing.

So I started to test the gp system. All gp test great. The harness tested great for both continuity and voltage. On the bat+ terminal of the gp solenoid I had bat voltage, but when I pushed the manual button, I only had 5.8v on the gp side. So of coarse I replaced the solenoid. Still not starting with out holding the button for 20 sec. And even then it was a rough start.

So, looking at MY trucks wiring I realise, there is way more wire then is needed.
The wire (cable) that leaves the passenger battery and goes to the fender to power the solenoid has been rerouted along the top of the radiator support and under the cab to below the drivers seat, through a disconect switch, then all the way back. At that point it connects to fender solenoid, then through harness, into my homemade longer harness to remount gp controler away from turbo to the drivers side radiator top corner.

My thought was the system had way to much resistance. Yesterday I cut that cable feeding the gp controler and ran it to bat+ about 4 inches away. Retested for voltage and whala!

I went out this morning (its snowing) held button for 20 sec (longer then I feel I should need to, but I want to see how it starts doing everything the same) and it started remarkable better.

I have disconnected the controler and am only using a solenoid with push button. I'm not worried about anyone driving my truck.

Now I will redo my gp harness to shorten it up. I figure there was roughly 20ft of unnecessary cable as well as an old disconnect switch.

It is that time of year and figure maybe this might help someone. The system can be simplified enormously if you dont mind a few more steps to get her fired up.

This is the makeshift gp temp fix.

This is passenger battery with altered wiring.

Went to start my truck and she coughed and then just cranking. I tested my glow plugs with a test light and they all failed. When just a few days ago they all tested good.

Maybe they were going out and finally died? I didnt think it was firing up as fast as it should.

You may be right about the glow plugs going out on their own. A test light can't tell you if they are going out. It can only tell you whether or not they're burned out completely. I prefer a DVOM, but will use a test light for a quick check.

6 of them read .6 and 2 read .5 with my meeter zeroing at .2

So .3 to .4 ohms

How long can you energize these plugs? Ive seen a youtube video where it appears you can burn them for minutes+.