Head bolt block thread

PROFG

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Read the whole thread "
ARP STUD INSTALL BLOCK THREAD FAILURE "
and so no mention of another possible cause. ARP now uses the hex on top for finger tight installation. Is it possible PO did not install some full depth due to friction? Seeing how much stud protrudes thru nut before torquing would be clue. Think difference in thread angle and lube on nut/washer would prevent turning stud deeper while torquing. Chasing threads with real tap probably aided in pull out. Don't mean to bring back dead thread but it was never resolved.
 
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PROFG

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Now that's the kind of useful discussion we look forward to here, 137 views and no comment.:rolleyes:
 

PROFG

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Is that chase with non-cutting plug tap or finger torque with cutting tap or ..?:)
 

Thewespaul

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Arp sells a thread cleaning tool, I have one for the 6.9 and 7.3. It takes quite a few passes to clean up but it works great. Most people just blow the threads out I think.
 

FordGuy100

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I chased the threads as well, you're supposed to use a bottom tap iirc but I just used a regular one. Use compressed air and try to clean it up as much as possible.
 

PROFG

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I thought mention elsewhere here of NOT using a real cutting tap, or at least just hand pressure on it, to prevent shaving any metal off block threads. Solvent and softer tap would seem ideal. Am still trying to find alternate bolts for one at a time replacement (head on).
 

Thewespaul

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I thought mention elsewhere here of NOT using a real cutting tap, or at least just hand pressure on it, to prevent shaving any metal off block threads. Solvent and softer tap would seem ideal. Am still trying to find alternate bolts for one at a time replacement (head on).
How do you plan on doing that? Many of the bolts are too long to be removed with the cylinder head in place. If you do some searching theres an old thread that covered all this probably ten years ago, we found several upgraded bolt options and had all the math done to compare the stock bolt clamping force, upgraded bolt and studs. In the end with cost per clamping force considered, the stock bolt is actually really good and a retorque is really beneficial. The upgraded bolts did not offer much increased clamping force per the increased cost, where the stud kits offer the most improvement over stock per dollar.
 

PROFG

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Yup, found it and read it. Thought there was mention of removing the couple tough ones by removing some of the AC/heater box. Can't see re-torque without knowing thread cleanliness and lube status but could be convinced of effectiveness. No head gasket problems so should probably leave it alone.:)
 

Thewespaul

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You can remove the ac box and master cylinder to do studs in frame, but the bolts/studs have to be removed and installed in the head, there’s not room to pull them out without removing the head.
 

IDIBRONCO

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You can remove the ac box and master cylinder to do studs in frame, but the bolts/studs have to be removed and installed in the head, there’s not room to pull them out without removing the head.
Not to mention that there's no way that you could use the ARP thread chasing tool (the only safe way to clean the threads).
 

IDIoit

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heh... this again....
cutting tap this.
thread chaser that.

why don't yall just take a used headbolt,
cut a few flutes in it with a cut off wheel.
spend a minute when youre smoking your joint/drinkin your whiskey.
and hit the edges with a small flat file.
or if your fancy, use your thread file.

o_O:cheers::drunk::smoke::smoke::smoke::kick:
 

Macrobb

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I'll just point out that I've just installed my studs 'wrong' and not had any issue - just used a small 3/16" bit on my 1/4 drive dewalt impact driver at about half trigger until she stops. That generally got all the bolts to within 1/8" or so of each other, plenty far down in there.

I won't disagree with cleaning the threads being a good idea, I've just never been able to do it.
 

typ4

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heh... this again....
cutting tap this.
thread chaser that.

why don't yall just take a used headbolt,
cut a few flutes in it with a cut off wheel.
spend a minute when youre smoking your joint/drinkin your whiskey.
and hit the edges with a small flat file.
or if your fancy, use your thread file.

o_O:cheers::drunk::smoke::smoke::smoke::kick:
This is the best way, been doing it this way for many many many years.
 

Oledirtypearl86

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I just studded a 5.9 Cummins and chased all the threads an then sprayed out with brake kleen then blew out with air it took 10 min in m opinion 10 min of prep is worth 3 hrs of dicking around with dirty threads especially when I'm getting paid by the job
 

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