E4od - Just won't lock up!!!

Enginerd

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Hello everyone. I finally have my 1993 F250 on the road! I'm in love with this truck. The motor reminds me of the schoolbus that I rode in elementary school. I used to love the sound of that old bus and now I realize that was probably an IDI!
So I just can't seem to get the converter to lock up. The shift points and firmness feels great and I have no other issues. I bought the truck with this tranny (so I was told, seemed clean) and the old "bad" tranny sitting in the bed and a "new" torque converter was sitting in the floorboard. I am getting code 23 after the battery has been reset and I first turn the key on. I get code 62 while driving. I have read and worked out nearly all the stuff I can to resolve this with no luck and here is what I've done:

1. TPS - I have 5 volts, a good ground (I even spliced in and have it straight to the battery right now), and I've worked the reference wire several times now. I couldn't find an agreed upon value so I tried 1.0 volts, 1.1, 1.2, and 1.4. I'm back to 1.2 because the 1.0 was too mushy and the 1.4 seemed maybe too harsh for it. The max value I have is at 3.8 something now, but that's because of that screw on the back of the throttle. I had messed with it to get to 4.2 volts but realized I don't know what it is (max throttle?) so I tried to put it back.
I feel like the problem just has to be the TPS given the code 23 setting immediately turning the key on after computer reset. But volts is volts and I've got all the proper values I thought and no dead spots from the sensor...

2. Passenger side solenoid plug - I read quite a few posts from FORDF250HDXLT and others (thank y'all sooo much) and cleaned the snot out of that connector. It actually was gross because it sat out on the ground for 6 months while this truck was up for sale. I was surely hoping this was it, but no change.

3. I may have went overboard after the transmission connector haha. While the battery was disconnected to reset the computer again I pulled all the plugs related to the torque converter from all the posts I'd read and sprayed them out and cleaned them and dried them as good as I possibly could - speed sensor on the axle, 2 firewall connectors going down to the transmission, 2 passenger side connectors next to the battery coming from the TPS and tach, the tach and TPS themselves, and some others for good measure. All had some gunk but the issue still remains after cleaning - no torque converter lockup.

4. My fluid is fresh since I just put this transmission in. It still looks clearish red when hot and is right on the middle of the crosshatch area.

5. My tach and speedometer both work with no issues. If I look hard, I can see the speedometer flutter maybe a little sometimes while going a constant speed but it seems just fine. The tach sensor on the other hand does have one of the two sides missing about half its insulation for some reason. I made sure it's not grounding to anything but right out of the sensor it is missing that insulation. I started to suspect this, especially since I couldn't get the 2,000 to 3,000 ohms across the wires that I should according to dieselhub. But my tach doesn't have a problem so I don't think it's this.

6. When I first got the truck running it was at 850. I dropped it to 600 not knowing better because I like a low idle (this clackety diesel sounds pretty mean at that rpm). But then I read the computer doesn't like it below 750 for the transmission and that the lower idle could be the problem. Nope, didn't fix it. I want that low idle back but not till I get this converter sorted out. It's at 800ish in park and 750 in gear right now.

What do you guys think? I'm at a loss and don't even know where to look anymore. I want to do the lockup mod but I can't if it's not locking up on its own from what I've read. What am I missing? I have 300 miles with no hint of a lockup so far. I'm taking it easy but my other truck's starter went out so I have to drive this to work, 70 miles a day.

By the way, I'm still new to the whole forum thing so don't hesitate to correct me or give me pointers if I'm not doing something right.

I appreciate what you all share on this forum so much.
 

SLC97SR5

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Is your brake light switch releasing completely?

Do your running and brake lights work?
 

Enginerd

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Yes, that was the something i forgot to mention. My brake lights are working and I especially know this because my trailer brake controller lights up with the brakes.

Also, my cruise control works, so this tells me the brake wiring is good in relation to the computer. Thanks for bringing that point up.
 

Enginerd

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If not a brake light issue, I would say converter is cooked.

Boy a cooked converter would sure stink, especially if it damages the transmission any. So if the converter seems to drive like normal as far as engagement goes, just with no lock up, that still means it could be a bad torque converter? It does seem to have a higher stall then I would imagine for a diesel but then again I have no background with this transmission or truck.

This morning I only had the OD light blink for a few of the first miles and then it went off. No lock up, but when I got up on the highway 20 minutes into the drive it stayed in 3rd. I pulled over, shut it off, and turned it back on and it drove like normal again... No lock up though.
 

SLC97SR5

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Do you have a transmission temperature gauge? If it is honestly slipping the entire time I would imagine she's getting quite warm.

Other than the code 62 how do you know it is not locking up?

While cruising on level ground at 55mph, what happens when you lightly apply the brake pedal? Do the RPM's increase?

Have you pried out the OD button to inspect the pins?
 

Enginerd

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Do you have a transmission temperature gauge? If it is honestly slipping the entire time I would imagine she's getting quite warm.

No, no gauge yet. I can feel warmth in the floorboard but the fluid still is clear/red. I have continued to drive it because my other truck is down, and also because I am assuming it won't get any hotter than a non lockup transmission, especially since I'm not pulling loadsand I have a cooler on the front. Is that a safe assumption?

Other than the code 62 how do you know it is not locking up?

While cruising on level ground at 55mph, what happens when you lightly apply the brake pedal? Do the RPM's increase?

Because the rpms don't ever settle at something constant, and because touching the brake to activate the switch doesn't change rpms. What I mean is, if I give a little more fuel to it, the Tom's just go up and then the speed slowly increases. If I let off then it goes to idle.

Have you pried out the OD button to inspect the pins?

No I have not but that is an excellent place for me to look next because it does seem to act finnicky. I'll try that tomorrow afternoon when I get home and see.

So here's another thing I thought of today. What in the world is this? It was just hanging when I got the truck, so I screwed it to the underside of the panel to keep it away from my feet. It is a flat connector looking thing that has several pins,and it goes to a big ground and the rest of the wires come from the harness running up the side. It couldn't be intended for locking up the converter as some sort of kit could it? I already have a brake controller so I wouldn't think it would be for that, and it's a 93 so I wouldn't think it's an OBD connector since I've got that under the hood. Maybe I'm a little on the hopeless side now haha

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SLC97SR5

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That's where the programmer plugs into to unlock all the torques! Just kidding.

I'm not sure. It looks like an aftermarket alarm or interlock. If that is what it is, I've never seen one actually be used. The units I've come across have been on California vehicles.

Does it have power going to it or a fuse?
 

SLC97SR5

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I would explore that further, at least see what it is wired to.
Definitely a different connector than the current Banks transcommand.

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Enginerd

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Two wires are spliced into the red and blue wire, and the rest go to ground. So what wire is this? If I jump this connection I wonder what would happen... It'll have to wait until tomorrow evening though

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trackspeeder

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Converter clutch fails apply.

Electrical S3 solenoid has failed, or is not getting a signal.

Mechanical, CC control valve is stuck or damaged.
Stator shaft seal is damaged. ( I would look here). This seal is the Teflon seal on the pump. Sometimes they are installed wrong or damaged.
 

Enginerd

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I would explore that further, at least see what it is wired to.
Definitely a different connector than the current Banks transcommand.

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That looks just like it! And it looks too professional to be a normal guy's work like me... No offense to y'all haha
 

Enginerd

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Tried just splicing the wire that was spliced into and it didn't change anything. The wire is red with a pinkish purplish stripe. So I have no clue what that thing is. Maybe I could try grounding that splice while going down the road. If that does nothing, I'll pull the end of the shift knob apart, although it does work kicking out of OD and the OD light does flash when the code is set.

Converter clutch fails apply.

Electrical S3 solenoid has failed, or is not getting a signal.

Mechanical, CC control valve is stuck or damaged.
Stator shaft seal is damaged. ( I would look here). This seal is the Teflon seal on the pump. Sometimes they are installed wrong or damaged.

I guess all this stuff requires dropping the pan doesn't it? I will need to do some research on what all this means exactly. I'm not good with transmissions, just done a little messing around with a 700r4 is all.
 

Enginerd

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Well I feel silly getting all excited over that little connector thing...

I have my egt display wired through my instrument cluster lights, so before I start the truck in the mornings I like to turn on my lights first to see the temperature outside. It's been starting like a champ these mornings with high 40's and low 50's in Arkansas. So come at me winter!

I spliced the wire back together that went to this connector last night and nothing changed on my little test drive last night right?
This morning I had the door open and turned the lights on, and I heard this little dinky high pitched buzzer sound? What was it you ask? Well that would be my door buzzer working now I reckon. Then I find this wiring description for a 1980-88 truck :idiot:

Yay. I now have a dinky door buzzer and still a non functional lockup haha!

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Enginerd

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Converter clutch fails apply.

Electrical S3 solenoid has failed, or is not getting a signal.

Mechanical, CC control valve is stuck or damaged.
Stator shaft seal is damaged. ( I would look here). This seal is the Teflon seal on the pump. Sometimes they are installed wrong or damaged.

I think you may have got it here. I haven't fooled anymore with it. On my drive this morning, I finally had the torque converter lock. I slowly accelerated, just easing up to 55 mph, and it went 1-2-3-lock-4. It did it several times in a row with no problems.
So, I guess this is one of those lovely cases where if you ignore it then it fixes itself. I figure the valve or something mechanical like that must have unstuck. Hopefully it stays this way! Thanks everyone for your help!
 
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