rempfer
Registered User
On two occasions, after many miles on long trips pulling a loaded trailer, at full throttle in 5th overdrive at 65-70 MPH I have observed the engine accelerate several hundred RPMs due to the clutch (or ???) slipping. On the first occasion I backed out of it immediately and dropped down a gear to lessen the load on the engine and the slipping stopped. On the second occasion I stayed on the throttle a few seconds before backing off and could smell the clutch (or ???) "burning."
Here's what I can report from observations so far.
1. While I have done the modification to the clutch pedal push-rod (getting rid of the fakey plastic bushing), the modified rod is the correct length and is NOT preventing the master cylinder from retracting fully whether the vehicle is hot, cold, or possibly binding in a turn. There is always 3/4 to 1 inch free play in the pedal due to a slight gap between the push-rod and the master cylinder piston when the clutch is engaged.
2. I do not "ride" the clutch pedal.
3. The clutch disc does not feel as if it's worn out, since the clutch begins to engage with the pedal about 1/3 of the way off the floor and therefore has a lot of pedal travel between where the clutch fully engages and where the pedal reaches its top position.
4. So I believe there's plenty of thickness left to the clutch disc, that the clutch linkage is not causing the problem, and therefore that it must be an issue either with the clutch having gotten wet/oily or most likely a weak pressure plate.
5. Possible argument/exception to #4: I've read some stuff here on the forum about "dual-mass" flywheels -- whatever those are -- that makes me wonder if the flywheel could be slipping internally or ???. (I would remind you all that if allowed to slip for 2-3 seconds, one does get a slipping clutch smell.)
As far as I know, this truck is all original/unmodified from the factory. What flywheel would it have?
If not a weird flywheel issue, or oil on the clutch disc issue, what parts (clutch disc and especially pressure plate) should I buy and install to ensure that this problem won't happen again?
Your thoughts and advice, please?
Thanks,
**** Rempfer
Elma Washington USA
Here's what I can report from observations so far.
1. While I have done the modification to the clutch pedal push-rod (getting rid of the fakey plastic bushing), the modified rod is the correct length and is NOT preventing the master cylinder from retracting fully whether the vehicle is hot, cold, or possibly binding in a turn. There is always 3/4 to 1 inch free play in the pedal due to a slight gap between the push-rod and the master cylinder piston when the clutch is engaged.
2. I do not "ride" the clutch pedal.
3. The clutch disc does not feel as if it's worn out, since the clutch begins to engage with the pedal about 1/3 of the way off the floor and therefore has a lot of pedal travel between where the clutch fully engages and where the pedal reaches its top position.
4. So I believe there's plenty of thickness left to the clutch disc, that the clutch linkage is not causing the problem, and therefore that it must be an issue either with the clutch having gotten wet/oily or most likely a weak pressure plate.
5. Possible argument/exception to #4: I've read some stuff here on the forum about "dual-mass" flywheels -- whatever those are -- that makes me wonder if the flywheel could be slipping internally or ???. (I would remind you all that if allowed to slip for 2-3 seconds, one does get a slipping clutch smell.)
As far as I know, this truck is all original/unmodified from the factory. What flywheel would it have?
If not a weird flywheel issue, or oil on the clutch disc issue, what parts (clutch disc and especially pressure plate) should I buy and install to ensure that this problem won't happen again?
Your thoughts and advice, please?
Thanks,
**** Rempfer
Elma Washington USA