Brand new to the fourm...Have a question

Shamoke · Sep 16, 2019

So I'm thinking of buying an older Ford F-350 with a 7.3 IDI engine in it with 138,000 miles. I've been reading that it is a solid engine and the truck is in really good shape for it's age, it's a 1988 model. I have read that this is the first year for this engine and that it has no electronics on it and that's what I'm looking for, an old school truck that will run forever. My question is though, will this truck have enough power to pull some equipment around my local area? The equipment I have weights about 14,000 without the trailer. So probably around 17,000 with a trailer, I'm guessing here about the trailer weight as I do not own one yet. The truck hae been well taken care of and I'm really interested in it but I know that it is not as powerful as the Power-stroke engines that came out in mid 1994. What do you guys think?

I forgot to add that I'm driving 100 miles to look at this pickup tomorrow and I'd like some advice of things to look for with this engine. I'm new to diesel engines so any advice will be welcome. It's a 5 speed manual transmission if that helps any.

79GLIDE · Sep 16, 2019

Welcome to the forum. Define "local area." Does it have a C6 or 5 speed? You won't win any races. I've pulled a variety of trailers long distances with mine, '88 F350 CC Dually ZF5. I don't get in a hurry.

Shamoke · Sep 17, 2019

It's listed as having a ZF-5 Speed Manual Transmission. I'm not going to try to race I just want to be able to haul. local area would be no more than 40 miles in any direction. And it is a dually.

79GLIDE · Sep 17, 2019

I'd do it. SE MO hills can be a bear, but with the 5 speed you should be good to go. The pic in my sig is my 1990 F250 7.3NA E4OD 4X4 pulling 3 horse slant with small living quarters and tack rack. Omaha to Eminence and back, no sweat.

Shamoke · Sep 17, 2019

So I'm feeling a bit more confident in the ability of this truck thanks to your replies, thank you. Any advice on what I should look for on the engine when I see it tomorrow? Any special quirks that these engines have?

lotzagoodstuff · Sep 17, 2019

I would call and tell the owner you want it cold to start it when you get there. I think you can tell a lot more starting one cold than hot, specifically the glow plug circuit, fuel system and starter/batteries.

Do some quick reading for details on what you should see when you turn the key, but I'd say you should see the wait to start light go on, stay lit for 8-9 seconds, go out while hearing some audible clicking sounds from the relay controlling the glow plug circuit. After that a twist of the key should light the engine without touching the throttle. If it idles smoothly without much shaking, I would say you could state that the injectors and timing are decent.

Again, once the engine is warm, you won't be able to see clearly how it cold starts.

Do some reading in the IDI forums, but that truck should pull what you want to pull within 40 miles, you just need to be patient as it won't pull like a new one ton.

Good luck

Shamoke · Sep 17, 2019

lotzagoodstuff said:
I would call and tell the owner you want it cold to start it when you get there. I think you can tell a lot more starting one cold than hot, specifically the glow plug circuit, fuel system and starter/batteries.

Do some quick reading for details on what you should see when you turn the key, but I'd say you should see the wait to start light go on, stay lit for 8-9 seconds, go out while hearing some audible clicking sounds from the relay controlling the glow plug circuit. After that a twist of the key should light the engine without touching the throttle. If it idles smoothly without much shaking, I would say you could state that the injectors and timing are decent.

Again, once the engine is warm, you won't be able to see clearly how it cold starts.

Do some reading in the IDI forums, but that truck should pull what you want to pull within 40 miles, you just need to be patient as it won't pull like a new one ton.

Good luck

Thank you very much for the info, it will help. I've seen videos about newer Powerstroke engines and testing for blow-by by loosening the oil filler cap and watching to see if it dances. Would that be a thing with the older 7.3's?

79GLIDE · Sep 17, 2019

I'm probably in the 20th to 30th percentile when it comes to overall knowledge here, so expect more expert opinions than mine. The glow plug relay is a primary concern, and should be maintained, including quality glow plugs. Probably going to be 90 degrees down there tomorrow, and if the seller has had it running before you get there, you'll probably have to do some checking of the condition of that system later. Look closely at and between the injectors for evidence of leaks on the return lines, return line caps, etc. Return line kits are available and inexpensive. The front tank(unless it's been replaced) almost always develops a leak from rust under the front support cover. I'd take a look underneath to check for evidence there. The so-called shower heads on the pickup tubes in the tanks tend to drop off, reducing the useable fuel capacity to around 12-14 gallons before you're pulling air into the lines, especially in the hills. I try not to let my rear tank get below 1/4 on the gauge. The vent tubes, if not modified, tend to force slow tank filling at the pump. I've got 4 IDI's that are slow fillers. For some reason, on my trucks, nobody ever thought to replace the fuel hose between the metal fuel line on the frame and the lift pump(front passenger side of engine block), and they have all been cracked or rotted allowing air into entrainment or complete loss of fuel pressure. All of these issues are relatively easy to maintain, modify or address. The vacuum source for the brake booster is supplied by a belt driven vacuum pump on the alternator side. Belt maintenance is must, as with any vehicle. The rest is basic maintenance to me.

Philip1 · Sep 17, 2019

Shamoke said:
Thank you very much for the info, it will help. I've seen videos about newer Powerstroke engines and testing for blow-by by loosening the oil filler cap and watching to see if it dances. Would that be a thing with the older 7.3's?

These engines from the factory have a lot of blow by something to do with a large ring gap designed into the engine for emission controls.

Shamoke · Sep 17, 2019

79GLIDE said:
I'm probably in the 20th to 30th percentile when it comes to overall knowledge here, so expect more expert opinions than mine. The glow plug relay is a primary concern, and should be maintained, including quality glow plugs. Probably going to be 90 degrees down there tomorrow, and if the seller has had it running before you get there, you'll probably have to do some checking of the condition of that system later. Look closely at and between the injectors for evidence of leaks on the return lines, return line caps, etc. Return line kits are available and inexpensive. The front tank(unless it's been replaced) almost always develops a leak from rust under the front support cover. I'd take a look underneath to check for evidence there. The so-called shower heads on the pickup tubes in the tanks tend to drop off, reducing the useable fuel capacity to around 12-14 gallons before you're pulling air into the lines, especially in the hills. I try not to let my rear tank get below 1/4 on the gauge. The vent tubes, if not modified, tend to force slow tank filling at the pump. I've got 4 IDI's that are slow fillers. For some reason, on my trucks, nobody ever thought to replace the fuel hose between the metal fuel line on the frame and the lift pump(front passenger side of engine block), and they have all been cracked or rotted allowing air into entrainment or complete loss of fuel pressure. All of these issues are relatively easy to maintain, modify or address. The vacuum source for the brake booster is supplied by a belt driven vacuum pump on the alternator side. Belt maintenance is must, as with any vehicle. The rest is basic maintenance to me.

Thank you very much. Now I can be a bit more thorough when I inspect this truck. Much obliged to you guys.

Cubey · Sep 17, 2019

Philip1 said:
These engines from the factory have a lot of blow by something to do with a large ring gap designed into the engine for emission controls.

My F250 (100k+? 200k+? Damn 5 digit odometer) doesn't show smoke out of the oil filler but it burns much more oil than my probably 71k original miles E350 RV. It's still within "normal" consumption but it definitely uses a lot more.

frankenwrench · Sep 17, 2019

Check that oil cooler and check for sca or elc in the radiator. U can pick up test strips in the parts store. If it has one or the other than someone has taken care of the cooling system. These trucks require it. Cavitation is a bear. Oil cooler isn't that bad to reseal pocket wise but it's a pain clearing the oil out of the coolant. My first time dealing with this I changed the head gaskets not knowing any better and spent 130 bucks more than I had to. Just to keep getting oil in the water. Aside from that and ensuring a healthy fuel system as mentioned above as well as the glow plugs and wiring to them, not much to these old blocks. Oh! And don't forget to check the battery cables. They don't like to start spinning slow. Lastly, if it still has the mechanical pump bolted to the block under the vaccume pump(assuming it's still on the v belt pull system) check that for leaking fuel/oil. Had a busted diaphragm on mine and a bit of diesel made it's way into the block. Cought it pretty quick on mine so no harm. But something to look at if your driving it back home. As far as what it can haul, I have easily carried 23,000 on a regular basis. It's slow under a good load getting up to speed, but then I added a turbo and it helped alot. Just change my oil a bit more often now that I know it can do it. Lol.

saburai · Sep 17, 2019

Welcome to the forum and good luck with your search! I spent weeks reading and researching, mostly right here. This is a great and helpful community with a very knowledgeable bunch of fanatics - err, I ment to say folks... I spent a few months shopping Craigslist before I bought Diego, the second truck in my Sig line, he's for sale now, but probably too much of a drive for you to come get

in regards to the truck you're going to be looking at today - there were two things that I didn't see mentioned. The odometer on the brick nose trucks rolls over at 100,000 so more than likely unless the seller has documentation to backup the low milage you can add 100k. That's not necessarily a bad thing as these engines are very robust. However, generally speaking the injection pump and injectors have a service life of around 150k. Also in regards to the cold start test, there's a high idle/cold start solenoid that's powered when the key is turned on. So in addition to waiting for the glowplugs to cycle, you also need to press the accelerator pedal to the floor and release it after energizing the circuit. This assures that the throttle is cracked enough to keep it running until the engine comes up to temperature. Good luck with your search!

frankenwrench · Sep 17, 2019

saburai said:
Welcome to the forum and good luck with your search! I spent weeks reading and researching, mostly right here. This is a great and helpful community with a very knowledgeable bunch of fanatics - err, I ment to say folks... I spent a few months shopping Craigslist before I bought Diego, the second truck in my Sig line, he's for sale now, but probably too much of a drive for you to come get in regards to the truck you're going to be looking at today - there were two things that I didn't see mentioned. The odometer on the brick nose trucks rolls over at 100,000 so more than likely unless the seller has documentation to backup the low milage you can add 100k. That's not necessarily a bad thing as these engines are very robust. However, generally speaking the injection pump and injectors have a service life of around 150k. Also in regards to the cold start test, there's a high idle/cold start solenoid that's powered when the key is turned on. So in addition to waiting for the glowplugs to cycle, you also need to press the accelerator pedal to the floor and release it after energizing the circuit. This assures that the throttle is cracked enough to keep it running until the engine comes up to temperature. Good luck with your search!

Kinda hope he gets the truck if it's a good runner. Been impressed with mine for the past 4 years or so.

Randy Bush · Sep 17, 2019

I have a 1993 dually with factory turbo ZF5 wide ratio 4.10. I pull an equipment trailer behind with 18k -20k. Little slow on the hills , but running down the highway pulls as fast as I want to go.

Brand new to the fourm...Have a question

Shamoke

Registered User

79GLIDE

Full Access Member

Shamoke

Registered User

79GLIDE

Full Access Member

Shamoke

Registered User

lotzagoodstuff

Supporting Member

Shamoke

Registered User

79GLIDE

Full Access Member

Philip1

Supporting Member

Shamoke

Registered User

Cubey

Van dweller

frankenwrench

overkill is under rated!

saburai

Supporting Member

frankenwrench

overkill is under rated!

Randy Bush

Full Access Member

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