7.3 IDIT are suppose to leak

rewbrooks50

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My 94 F250 always has a leak somewhere. Added 6.0 trans cooler and leaked after a few days. Removed the front grill and support and bumper three times to stop the leak. The oil pan plug leaked. Wes sent me a new one. Fuel rubber lines to the electric pump leaked. Then the water pump started leaking. Replace the pump and hoses. The ac has a slow leak. In process of replacing the system. Now, a fuel injector line is leaking at the IP. I am thinking of not repairing the fuel leak so nothing else will.
 

rewbrooks50

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Seriously, what size is the IP line nut? Is there a special tool to reach to tighten? Any parts needed to repair the leak?
 

Selahdoor

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5/8" wrench.

You have to bend your arm in 3 places. Better start looking for a circus, right now...
 

Thewespaul

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Where is it leaking? The lines that connect to the injectors and to the back of the pump are 5/8, the fitting and line for the pump feed in the middle are 11/16 and 3/4. These lines are soft, so I like to use a line wrench like this
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Clb

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I have but 1 thing to add...
The 5 p's
 

Cubey

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Once I replaced the brittle piece of return hose for power steering, my RV is leaking almost nothing, at least from below. I'm parked on a very clean cement right now and there is one little spot of a drip that might be from the previous power steering leak? It looks like oil but it could just be dirty trans fluid. Or it might be coolant, if the radiator has a minuscule leak. It's NOTHING compared to before, where it left a red spot in the grass from the leak.

My F250 needs olives (I ordered and got but never installed) and once in a while I have to tighten up the inlet line to the IP when it starts to leak. As in, once a year.
 

dgr

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There is a special wrench for those lines. They likely came in dealer master tool sets for the shop. You could try eBay or go new for $150 or so. Search OTC 7460 injector line tool.

You can tighten all of them easily with the pump off the engine .... With a combination of crows foot and a regular wrench, you can probably get most of them done.
 

Macrobb

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if you take off the upper 4 lines on the IP side(and remove the lines from the truck), you can get access to the bottom 4 to tighten. Then just reinstall the upper 4 lines.

At the injector, make sure it's not the return cap leaking instead of the high pressure line.
 

rewbrooks50

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It the second line from the front of driver side. It’s dripping at the IP end. I will try to tighten it tomorrow with a line wrench.
Thanks for the replies.
 

dgr

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You can use a regular open end wrench if it works better. Those steel nuts aren't going to strip at anything less than angry gorilla torque.

I believe Wes was talking about using a line wrench on the low pressure lines that go from the filter housing to the pump nose cone and from the pump return port back to the tanks. Those are brass nuts. Don't tell anyone but I use an open end wrench on them. They have olives to make the seal and only need to be tightened until they are snug.
 

Tumbleweed210

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I have two 5/8 inch wrenches...
One is a regular combination wrench, that I heated up with an oxy-acetylene torch and bent the open end over at 90° (like a crow-foot) and oil quenched after. I use any ol screwdriver crossways in the open end for leverage if I need it.

The other is another regular combo wrench, that I took a grinder to and skinnyed up the shoulders of the open end...and once again with an oxy-fuel torch offset the open end approximately 12.5-ish degrees from flat (as it would lay it on a table-sorta).
With those and common flare wrenches for the 11/16 and 3/4; I can reach, loosen, and tighten all the lines at both ends without removing the air box...with the exception of the line at the very bottom of the IP.

Still working on one to fit the 9/16 nut on the turbo actuator line...so's I don't have to take the boot or air-box off. That thing is damn near impossible to get any kinda wrench on....
 

rewbrooks50

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Tighten the nut and replaced the pipe with the old one I had on hand. Still leaking at the IP. Is there any thread sealer or tape that can be used?

Or, can the fitting in the IP be bad? What is the replacement part?
 
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