Promise... the build

IDIBRONCO said:

This won't help with the cuts or sharp edges, but I do have some advice on how to make the line install a little bit easier. First install the bottom of the line into the fuel ump. Then put the upper nut back onto the fitting on the filter head. This won't make it an easy job, but will make it easier to do. If you put the top of the line on first, sometimes it's a "Mo Fo" To get the bottom lined up at the right angle to thread into the fuel pump. Another thing you can do is if you're having trouble sliding the line into the upper fitting, you can rotate the fitting slightly upward and then slip the line in the fitting and rotate the fitting back down and start the nut.

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I was ONLY putting on the bottom end. Didn't reconnect the top. Still had a bear of a time.

Here is the mess that is now on the passenger side fender in the doghouse.

The two red circles. One is the top end of that steel line that comes up from the mechanical pump. The other is the coil of rubber hose that is now connected to the other side of the mechanical pump.

Now here is what I will do on the side of the road, should this electric pump fail me...

The bottom green arrow/line that I painted in, is where the rubber fuel line comes up from the hard line on the frame, to my new glass filter.

The arrow that goes from there, overlaps and then runs along the rubber fuel line that goes back down to the mechanical pump.

The green arrow coming up, is of course, the steel line, from the fuel pump.

Now the blue... It runs along the clear line that connects to the fuel filter head.

Go to the bottom of that. Disconnect the clear line from the electric pump, and bring it back up and connect it to the top of the steel line.

Now, you have a full circuit again, for the mechanical pump. Bypassing the electric pump. And all you had to do was to undo some clamps, and swap out two connections.

A quick question.

How do you guys solder electric connections when working outside?

I tried. And even the tiniest bit of a breeze, kept the wires from getting hot enough from the soldering iron, to melt and flow the solder.

Tried it then, using a butane torch. Solder would melt sometimes, but wouldn't flow.

I'd hate to have to build some sort of shelter around the truck, just to be able to solder some wires...

Bigger soldering iron. Lol

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Honestly I just crimp the stuff anymore. I have a hard enough time melting the heat shrink with a breeze let alone trying to solder it.

Flux will help the soldier flow. Most soldier has flux in the middle but more won't hurt.

chillman88 said:

Honestly I just crimp the stuff anymore. I have a hard enough time melting the heat shrink with a breeze let alone trying to solder it.

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That's what I have done.

Of course it helps that after decades of trying all the cheapo tools, I finally invested what may not seem like a lot of money, (Mine were nearly 30 dollars at Lowes.). in some really good crimpers. These do an awesome job. After decades of crimps sometimes working loose, or even being 'eaten' by the crimp tool... I can now crimp to the proper level.

A quick question.

How do you guys solder electric connections when working outside?

I tried. And even the tiniest bit of a breeze, kept the wires from getting hot enough from the soldering iron, to melt and flow the solder.

Tried it then, using a butane torch. Solder would melt sometimes, but wouldn't flow.

I'd hate to have to build some sort of shelter around the truck, just to be able to solder some wires...[/QUOTE]

You need shiny copper wire showing, Rosin core solder (about 1/16" diameter) and a large enough solder iron with the tip tightly fastened in the gun.

I don't know what type of soldering iron you have. The older ones didn't need to get as hot to melt the lead solder. New lead free solder has higher melting temp. I have some (soldering irons/stations) with dial temp adjustment - turn them up. My Metcal has different tips, each with a different temp.

One thing to be mindful of is if you are soldering to ground plane, it acts as a heat sync. You need to have a tip with the power and surface area to keep up.

Speaking of crimps, there's some in the marine industry that have solder inside, but it's a low temp. Also has the heat shrink on it. But I won't use a crimp that isn't the heat shrink style.

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YJMike92 said:

You need shiny copper wire showing, Rosin core solder (about 1/16" diameter) and a large enough solder iron with the tip tightly fastened in the gun.

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Yeah, that's the kind of soldering iron I wish I had. I have the stick.

Selahdoor said:

Yeah, that's the kind of soldering iron I wish I had. I have the stick.

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One of those and a 100+ day, you'll have no problems soldering in a little wind. If it's cool, I still haven't had much luck even with those.

IDIBRONCO said:

One of those and a 100+ day, you'll have no problems soldering in a little wind. If it's cool, I still haven't had much luck even with those.

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Thinking maybe I should just climb inside the truck and do the soldering.

But yeah, even if that works, on cold days, not even that might work.

+1 crimp then heat shrink. They have really cheap packs of waterproof heat shrink on Amazon that's the cat's pajamas, oh man so easy. Pair that with bare butt and terminal connectors and you're golden for a long time.

And I agree, a quality set of crimpers are totally worth it!

Selahdoor said:

on cold days, not even that might work.

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I forgot to mention that it didn't work well for me when it was cold and breezy.

What are you soldering and how are you doing it? If you put the iron on the copper wire directly, it's a conductor and the heat dissipates down he wire quickly - especially if it's a big thick wire. Better to melt the solder into something smaller (terminal, pad,...) and let it cool. Then heat it back up and push the wire in the solder pool. This way you don't need as much power in your gun to keep up with the heat dissipation of the copper wire.