Best oil

Cubey

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Why the hell did Ford not use their F front end for the van?

It must have a cost cutting thing. Less metal is used for the fenders and hood on the vans. Plus they kept the 1970s dash until 1991. The trucks had TWO dash revisions in that same time. Dodge kept the 1978 van dash design until something like 1996. This would also help keep the purchase price down, particularly for the incomplete chassis for RVs, buses, box trucks, and ambulances, and by extension the completed vehicles. It could also be a fuel economy thing, less weight, more sloped.
 

YJMike92

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Thanks for sharing that Wes.
That was the information/confirmation of what's been bugging me for years. I have read several articles from various sources about newer specification motor oil and the effect it has on older engines. I have been looking for an alternative oil or solution to counter this issue. The newer oil specifications have forced the removal of the anti-wear and detergent additives in an effort to get better emissions. In turn, ruining our engines. I think I'll give this oil a try. It's not all that expensive.
 
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raydav

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Trying to save the most money possible on engine oil is false economics. As part of the total cost of ownership, oil is pocket lint. And was someone actually serious about using chain bar oil?

Regarding oil additives. For two years at SEMA I questioned every oil guy I could regarding oil for flat lifter cams. At one presentation there was a graph the shape of a wagon wheel. Each spoke represented an oil characteristic, such as wear resistance. In a perfect oil all spokes would be the same length. The challenge is, attempting to make one spoke longer often causes one or more other spokes the get shorter. So I asked, does that mean we should not be dumping zinc in our crankcases? The presenters reply was, absolutely don't try to play chemist, it is not that simple.

I have used nothing but full synthetic in everything since the mid seventies. I have used Rotella T6 in my 7.3 IDI and 7.3 PSD for several years and now use it in everything. I currently have six vehicles that run.
 

YJMike92

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So I decided I would give this a try.
I'll use it with the Rotella 15w40 I've been using
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david85

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I've been running motul 5w-40 since the last two changes. After trying to put my truck in semi-retirement, it turns out I need to use it almost daily now for my work. I noticed better coldstarts and performance compared to running rotella 15w-40. Also running the bigger FL1995 filter (1st gen powerstroke application).

I also leave the truck to drain overnight when changing the oil. It makes enough difference that the oil isn't instantly black after the first run-up. Does it matter that long in the grand scheme of things? Probably not, but it makes me feel a little better about how black the oil normally gets in these engines.
 

YJMike92

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Motul is good oil. It's hard to find around here retail. I can get it from one of my wholesalers. I believe it is a European specification which is a better specification then the US.
 

Macrobb

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I also leave the truck to drain overnight when changing the oil. It makes enough difference that the oil isn't instantly black after the first run-up.
I found that after doing several oil changes myself on an engine at ~3K miles or so, I got the same results - oil turns black only over the first few hundred miles.
I just pull the plug, wait till it's only dripping(~10 mins or so) and call it good. I do change it hot half the time(even with the engine fully warmed up, the oil temps are generally not scalding hot or anything, just fairly warm)
 

IDIBRONCO

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I just pull the plug, wait till it's only dripping(~10 mins or so) and call it good. I do change it hot half the time(even with the engine fully warmed up, the oil temps are generally not scalding hot or anything, just fairly warm)
I change my oil the "wrong" way. I hate scalding myself so I'll change it at barely warm at the hottest. I always have enough to do that I can let the oil drain for 2 or 3 hours. I also just break the filter loose and then punch a hole in it to let it drain out too. That way, there's way less of a mess when I remove it.
 

Macrobb

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Anyone tried those " Frantz" oil filters?

They claim to keep the oil clean.
I think if you really want to keep your oil really clean, go with a centrifuge solution:
http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/engine/1006dp-engine-oil-centrifuge-project-300/

I've been looking at doing it myself, and probably can do my setup for around the $300 mark... which, when you consider not having filters to replace adds up fairly quickly.
And it can filter out *really* small particles, too.
 
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