No front brakes

smithman · Jul 18, 2019

When I replaced my system, I had to bleed the master cylinder to itself first.

I made 2 short lines that went from the outlets up into the reservior. I had to make the 2 flare connections with threaded fittings. Submerge the ends of the brake lines into the fluid in the reservoir. Pump and fill as necessary to keep the lines submerged. Then quickly disconnect the lines in favor of the actual lines to the brakes.

If you didn't do this, you might try it.

slyhog022056 · Jul 21, 2019

Well, I think i found out why i dont dont front brakes. I was looking around my garage and found my old brake booster and master cylinder. The ports for the brake lines are 2 different sizes and the larger of the ports is on the end closest to the booster.
I will have to look at the ones on the new master cylinder but i almost swear the large port is on the opposite end of the master cylinder. I will know Tuesday because my truck it at my work place.
The thought of something like that never crossed my mind.

IDIBRONCO · Jul 22, 2019

The larger port being closer to the booster sounds normal to me. I don't think that you could switch the lines without some serious work. The brake lines are prebent in a certain way.

slyhog022056 · Jul 22, 2019

I understand that, i will know this afternoon when i go to work.

slyhog022056 · Jul 22, 2019

Well, i was right, the large port on the new master cylinder is on the end away from booster. That means the brake lines have been swapped around or wrong master cylinder. Can someone look at their master cylinder and tell me what you have.
91 f350 crew cab 7.3 idi e4od trans

IDIBRONCO · Jul 22, 2019

I know that it's not the same, but on my 81 F150, the large port is at the back. Next to the booster. It seems like the one on my 1985 F250 is the same way, but I'm not driving 15 miles to confirm that.

gandalf · Jul 22, 2019

I'll post a couple pictures from my '92 NA master cylinder before I converted to hydroboost. As far as I know this is normal.

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slyhog022056 · Jul 22, 2019

Looks the same as what is in mine now... Oh well, time to pull master and try bench bleeding it again. Then bleed out everything again.
Would bypassing the abs module have caused this problem?

Garbage_Mechan · Jul 23, 2019

How did you bypass it?

slyhog022056 · Aug 2, 2019

Disconnected in and out lines and spliced them together. Completely eliminated abs module. I have not found anyway to bleed it out. Or found any special tools to do it with. Went back to basic brake system. If i i cantt stop my11,000 lb truck without abs then something is wrong
I despise computer controlled vehicles as well as abs systems. Its one of those cases of " it worked for nearly 100 years without the bs it will work again deals. At least "manual" controlled braking and engine systems mess up you can make them work. New computer controlled systems, well break down and you have to be towed away.

79jasper · Aug 2, 2019

You do know the rabs valve has a bleeder on it, right?
You can also take the cap off the end, and clean it out. Sometimes the piston freezes up.
He's not questioning you for bypassing it. That's a very common modification. Even in tip top shape, the system is questionable. He was likely wanting more details how you did it. The F-SD trucks had a bypass line, no rabs. Some have tried finding those, some make one.
It's possible he was going to ask if you made sure to use a double flare on the lines? Or again, just how exactly you did it.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

slyhog022056 · Aug 2, 2019

i actually went to our hydraulic fittings supplier and found a female to female fitting for $8. it was 3" long overall. had the correct internal bubble to mate the lines

No front brakes

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