Project Little Foot

Honestly as far as you're taking this I would just run new fuel and brake lines. Cheap insurance.

Yes there is an o-ring inside the disconnects. That being said, they really aren't that expensive and plastic gets brittle with age.

I understand trying to keep costs down but fuel and brakes are not a place I tend to scrimp. Usually comes back to bite me at a most inconvenient time if I do.

your axles and springs actually dont look that bad. i would hit them with a pressure washer so you can see a little better what you are dealing with rust wise with the dirt gone. after that you can wire wheel them down or sand blast them. just be careful not to blast into the yoke or brake seals. obviously if you get sand in there it will tear up the sealing surface.

i would not bother breaking down the springs, i would clean them up as is with the leaves together.

chillman is right, that is a track or panhard bar.

i also tend to agree with him on replacing at least the brake lines. it is not hard to miss a little rust area that can give out when you dont want to. it also might be a good idea to put some newer fuel lines in and upgrade the size for better flow.

after having several quick connects fail where the oring has taken a set and wont seal i have just removed them and run regular fuel hose from the hard lines to the tank or fuel selector valve locations.

onetonjohn said:

Here's an update and a question. I got the transmission, fuel tanks, fuel lines, and wiring harness off the frame. Still need to get the break system, power steering, and axles. One thing I noticed is that there are a lot of plastic fasteners for fuel lines and wiring harness. I've included an image below of what I"m talking about. Is there a source of new fasteners? I don't want to have to worry about damaging them during sandblasting, or while I'm trying to remove them.

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The clips are available from ford pretty cheap. I had part numbers at one point. I can’t find the pictures right this minute.

Sandblaster came today. It was a lot of work prepping for sandblasting. I just got one coat over everything to seal it up. Gonna have to go back over it. It was a long day, I think I'll try doing second and third coat a little at a time. I think this is a milestone. I'm no longer taking things apart - I'm starting to put them together. At least I"m moving in the right direction.

Fresh parts always make you feel good. What did you shoot them with?

I used zero rust. My paint shop recommended it. They said it works well for this type of application, it's eas(ier) to apply/work with, and cheaper than POR-15. POR-15 was the alternative they suggested.

I can confirm that's it's easy to work with. I thinned 6:1 with lacquer thinner and it went on pretty well. This is my first paining project, so if I could do it I would say anyone can.

Rear axle leak repair questions. I seem to have a lot of rust, 3 leaky seals and some rust damage to the ring gear. I don't know if this is normal or not, so comments are appreciated. I've got another thread going to find the right parts "Rear axle seals leak. TSB 94-19-24 (PN: F4TZ-1177-C) - part dealership only?". Once I get the right parts, the plan is to clean up, new bearing and races for the hubs, reseal hubs and pinion , new fluid and run it! Here are some photos: This seem OK? I'm thinking the pitting on the ring gear will eventually kill the gears, but it will take a long time, and I can cross that bridge (rebuilding entire axle) when I get to it. Am I being foolish here? I would like it to last at least 5 to 10 years of occasional driving when I need to haul stuff.



Here are some images of what I'm working with:

Is there a way for me to edit the first post in this thread? I wanted to update it to include an index so that topics are easier to find. I've been able to edit posts in the past to correct spelling or technical errors, but I don't see the edit button for this post.

Isnt it amazing how much space a disassembled truck takes up? Your progress looks great, love seeing guys put so much care into these classic diesels.

You will likely have to have a mod edit your original post, I believe after the website update posts time out and become non-editable (is that a word?) by the original poster after some time.

Yeah my wife is starting to notice. I need to get the rolling chassis assembled and into the shop - I'm trying to clean up the yard. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but as I start putting this together, I'm finding out how much I don't know. Rust on the ring gear look OK - or is this going to blow up? I haven't done this before, so I don't have any frame of reference.

How do I contact a moderator?

Send @snicklas a pm, if you clean up the rust is there any pitting that is deep enough to catch your nail?

Yes, there is some pitting on the gear face. Not all the way around the ring gear but on several teeth. I don't want to spin it right now, because I marked the pinion nut relative to yoke in level position - I figure the less I move it the better till I get the yoke back on.

It would probably be fine for many years, I’m sure the correct answer is to replace it, but realistically it’s probably no more pitted than countless other 10.25s on the road that spent some time sitting.

I wouldn't worry about the ring gear, you'll probably be dead before it is. You should see some of the janky ass stuff that run's hard all day long in construction equipment, but if the pinion bearings are pitted like that wheel bearing that'll kill it fairly quick.


BTW, I like your pickup. If I could have found a clean standard cab one ton I would have bought that for my powerstroke/5 speed swap instead of my ext. cab.

The outer pinion bearing looked OK. Can't see the inner (I'm assuming there is another)