F350camper
BOOST!
Whats the plan now? Pressurize each cyl with shop air to figure out which side?
Pull the motor and do both hgs?
Run the dodge to TN?
Head gasket in a can?
Cummins swap?
blown HG?
- Thread starter no mufflers
- Start date
Pull the motor and do both hgs?
Run the dodge to TN?
Head gasket in a can?
Cummins swap?
Whats the plan now? Pressurize each cyl with shop air to figure out which side?
Pull the motor and do both hgs?
Run the dodge to TN?
Head gasket in a can?
Cummins swap?
i hate to say it but a cummins swap dont sound to bad.
im completely swamped with work so i really dont have time to dig into it any more then i am.
as of now ill be in the durge cummins.
pressurizing the cylinder to see if there is a HG problem would be a good idea. i still have the ticking thats getting louder and not sure of the cause. i have yet to find any sines of exhaust leaks.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
I will say that cummins have their own problems... like head gaskets. Just replaced a set on a well taken care of '99 24v with maby 150K on it. And at stock power levels, no less!
So, head gasket issues aren't exactly IDI specific.
Also, just want to mention "53 block" and "KDP"...
So, head gasket issues aren't exactly IDI specific.
Also, just want to mention "53 block" and "KDP"...
F350camper
BOOST!
Well at least you have a few oil burners to choose from And the Cummins swap comment was meant entirely as a joke. It would be a shame to see you redo all that custom work you've put into your engine bay.
Hopefully you get a few free moments to dig in a bit further.
Hopefully you get a few free moments to dig in a bit further.
Ironman03R
Full Access Member
If only there was a member here with a 12v Cummins for sale.....
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I don't mind the dodge but definitely not my choice for this occasion. I kinda built the Ford just for this stuff lol.
i did a cylinder leak down test and everything checked out good. i got some air through the intake on two cylinders but nothing pressurized the cooling system. i am only able to do 100 psi which is far below the pressure during combustion. i set the torque wrench to 100 ft-lbs and the nuts for the head studs didn't move. i have forgotten what ARP recommends.
this is the thing i put on the coolant bottle that had the bubbles showing.
this is the thing i put on the coolant bottle that had the bubbles showing.
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so i think i might be able to have two guys give me a hand doing HGs. i think i could get it done fast enough.
if that were to happen would it maybe be a good idea to use the heads from my old motor and check for valve play? i would like to not pull the engine. i would have to change valve springs. my only concern is the difference in buildup on the inside of the valve covers.
what is a good lifter to buy? thinking i should just change them too.
if that were to happen would it maybe be a good idea to use the heads from my old motor and check for valve play? i would like to not pull the engine. i would have to change valve springs. my only concern is the difference in buildup on the inside of the valve covers.
what is a good lifter to buy? thinking i should just change them too.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
But you have head studs. It's MUCH easier to pull the engine to R&R the heads. I bought Sealed Power brand lifters for mine, IIRC.
i have a fork lift too lol. just trying to save time if possible if i dig into this that far.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
A forklift? That's how we used to pull IDIs out of vans. It was A LOT easier than trying to use a cherry picker. I'm not sure that you'll save much time by removing the HVAC box and all of the other stuff just to have to pull the heads in chassis.
