Fan clutch upgrade...

subway

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Well @subway, I must apologize. I may have been a little quick on the judgement for this idea.

Most of the things I had read showed the electroviscous clutches as been a linear actuation. That would not work. However, if you look near the bottom of this page, you'll notice that they have rotary too and that's the type the 6.4 looks like.

https://www.haydenauto.com/media/5478/hayden-evc_8pgs.pdf

I have a 6.0 that is also electroviscous. Wonder if it's worth the experiment to see how it is attached to the clutch body? @ifrythings don't you have a defunct 6.4 clutch that was bad when you started? Just curious.

if we could somehow pop that little actuator off and mount it to the old IDI set up that would be awesome. now, most things in life do not work that well in practice. i have a graduates degree in that sort of thing LOL

i am really interested in just seeing how everything even works.
 

Selahdoor

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Not sure how these things are supposed to work. But I believe my fan is always fannin, if'n the engine is runnin...
 

ifrythings

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I had the bushing made for around $70 bucks if I remember right, mind you I did cut up a fan to save machine time. $500 for 2 is ridiculous, thats what $250 an hour shop rate? Sounds like my local ford dealer shop rate $150-160/hr if it’s a diesel!

@laserjock I do have a used 6.4 clutch waiting to be cut up, buddy of mine has a 6.4 and his clutch had a good 1” of play so I got that when we changed it out, now I just got to finish the head gasket job on that truck and I mite have time again to cut the clutch open and see what makes it tick.

I don’t think it’s possible to swap the 6.4 electric part onto the idi clutch, you would need some way to attach it to the housing perfectly centered and it still be able to work, I’ll definitely see how the 6.4 one is put together and let you guys know.


As for updates, not much to report, everything seems to be working good, I do notice the clutch doesn’t really unlock quickly when your not up to operating temp, it will lock up fairly quickly no matter the engine temp.

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And for those guys that do r12 to r134a conversions that don’t think you need a high pressure cut out switch, that’s 308psi with the fan locked on at a stop for about 2 minutes, with out the fan locking up it will go past 450psi!
 

franklin2

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I had the bushing made for around $70 bucks if I remember right, mind you I did cut up a fan to save machine time. $500 for 2 is ridiculous, thats what $250 an hour shop rate? Sounds like my local ford dealer shop rate $150-160/hr if it’s a diesel!

@laserjock I do have a used 6.4 clutch waiting to be cut up, buddy of mine has a 6.4 and his clutch had a good 1” of play so I got that when we changed it out, now I just got to finish the head gasket job on that truck and I mite have time again to cut the clutch open and see what makes it tick.

I don’t think it’s possible to swap the 6.4 electric part onto the idi clutch, you would need some way to attach it to the housing perfectly centered and it still be able to work, I’ll definitely see how the 6.4 one is put together and let you guys know.


As for updates, not much to report, everything seems to be working good, I do notice the clutch doesn’t really unlock quickly when your not up to operating temp, it will lock up fairly quickly no matter the engine temp.

You must be registered for see images attach


And for those guys that do r12 to r134a conversions that don’t think you need a high pressure cut out switch, that’s 308psi with the fan locked on at a stop for about 2 minutes, with out the fan locking up it will go past 450psi!

So are we revealing why the electrically activated fan is so complex and uses the PWM control? Possibly the old idi fan unlocked is still engaged enough to cool the A/C properly while the later electric clutch when it's released is not moving enough air for the A/C? The computer sees the A/C is on and actuates the clutch slightly to help the A/C on the later setup?

Believe me on a hot day, it doesn't take but 5 minutes with the A/C on for it to build too much pressure. I tried converting to electric fans and forgot to interlock the A/C control into the fans. Cold morning start the next day, turned the A/C on, and when I got to the bottom of the driveway ****!, the pop off valve went off on the compressor.
 

dgr

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Really interesting thread. Thanks for putting it together.

Have you looked at a shotgun choke? A cross slot cut into each end of the bushing and a couple of easily ground tools would make it easy to remove from either part.
 

PROFG

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Ok, had another look at 6.4 WP (by Murray) at Oreillys. Shaft ~ 1" vs IDI ~ 3/4" so bushing maybe common size depending exact dia. Pulley BC ~ 3" on both so maybe no re-drill of pulley (or use 6.4 pulley). Height from flange to thread end ~ 1-1/4" vs ~ 1-5/8" so maybe more radiator clearance. So why can't we remove IDI WP, press off hub, press on bushing and 6.4 hub from bad WP, bolt on pulley, install WP, bolt IDI fan onto 6.4 clutch, thread on 6.4 clutch / fan. NO left hand threading, pressing to adjust final pulley position, and maybe no machine work at all. If it works, enjoy. Now looking for bad 6.4WP.:)

edit Salvage yards won't sell used WP, at least here, so will go new and trade for leaker (and some cash). Any one spare a 6.4 hub from leaky WP??
 
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PROFG

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Really, no response, am I preaching to the choir or off my rocker or what? If not tried/failed before will let you all know how it comes out.
 

ifrythings

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Really, no response, am I preaching to the choir or off my rocker or what? If not tried/failed before will let you all know how it comes out.

Just so your aware, if you edit a post it doesn’t re-notify people subscribe to the thread, when I looked at your post in the morning it said “removed for later posting” or something like that, never knew you edited it again.

Anyways, the 6.4 pulley will not clear the idi water pump and won’t line up at all either with the belt, I already looked into this, had a 6.4 water pump and pulley and it will not work and the hub is too small to redrill for the idi pulley, I think I mentioned something about this earlier in the thread.

At this point there’s 2 ways to run a 6.4 clutch and both require machining, one is to make a bushing like I did or make a whole new hub and press the idi one off and the new one on.
 

PROFG

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Thanks ifrythings, did not know @ edit vs new post and for 6.4 pulley info. i missed hub info I guess, will search. Was looking at bare pumps in Oreillys. I am not too proud to braze or tack the 7.3 pulley to 6.4 hub and press on to correct depth if needed. Have a new FORD WP on the way for IDI fan clutch test rig (6.4 clutch just a stretch goal).
 

PROFG

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ifrythings, I found and remember reading your post @ 6.4 hub which is why I checked one at Oreillys. The Murray version they had used ~ 1" shaft and I don't recall bushing but some Airtex pumps on ebay show bushing between smaller shaft and hub. Sizes look about right. Looking for a bushed 6.4 aftermarket now to mike shaft.
 

PROFG

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ifrythings,I guess what confused me is u said 6.4 shaft much bigger. That's what we want, right? So we bush down to IDI shaft. Found a 6.4 WP 20M away, will look at today, honeydo list willing, and get shaft diameter.
 

ifrythings

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I believe what your seeing in that photo is the heat treating of the shaft and not a bushing.

Here’s a few pics of an idi wp with and with out the bushing I made. You can see between the first few pictures that the hubs are quite different.

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