Massive! oil consumption

Hydro-idi

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Ok everyone. Update...Glow plugs pulled and cylinders soaking in diesel until tomorrow morning. Will blow them out and change the oil then heading for the hills with another 3/4 ton in tow!

Might work. MMO would have been much better to use imo.
 

Black dawg

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Ever take a diesel apart that had actual stuck rings? Had one apart a few years ago, and nothing would even soften the crud that was holding them in. This was a truck run only on diesel. The only thing that would unstick the rings was heating the piston with a torch.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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I’m anxious to see if your heavy towing trip helps, but whether it helps or not, I would go to a double dose of AutoRX, run for 500 hard miles changing oil filter every 100 miles and cutting it open for inspection.

I agree with Black Dog that truly stuck Ring’s are tough to free up without disassembly, but I swear by AutoRX after my truck pulled the same hill going to my house one gear taller than previous after one treatment.

If you were closer I’d bring you a bottle.
 

Chief

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Might work. MMO would have been much better to use imo.
But I'm losing about a quart of oil every 20 or so miles. If I pour MMO into my engine, it won't stay there long enough to free any stuck rings. Right?

Update, day went to hell in a hand basket. Didn't get to haul a load. Maybe this coming weekend.
 

Chief

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I’m anxious to see if your heavy towing trip helps, but whether it helps or not, I would go to a double dose of AutoRX, run for 500 hard miles changing oil filter every 100 miles and cutting it open for inspection.

I agree with Black Dog that truly stuck Ring’s are tough to free up without disassembly, but I swear by AutoRX after my truck pulled the same hill going to my house one gear taller than previous after one treatment.

If you were closer I’d bring you a bottle.
I’ve got 2 bottles waiting. Can’t keep the consumption down for it to work unless I’m mistaken?
 

Chief

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Been a while since I’ve updated everyone. Been busy with work and a change in our organization structure.

I had already planned to pull a 3/4 ton to try to unstick any oil rings. Did it for about 3 hours and it didn’t do anything.

Been driving her nearly everyday and I just keep adding oil. Seems to be getting worse and the turbo doesn’t stay engaged without really pushing it. I think it’s all the oil blowing through there.

Finally got some time to do a warm compression test. Every cylinder read low with the #7 and #1 reading about 220. The highest reading was 380. Leads me to believe that rings are shot as I don’t think anything else could cause such low compression. Valve seats? Valve stem seals? Valve guides? Would a leak down test help narrow it down?

I’m at the point now that I’m probably gonna pull the engine and rebuild the bottom half. Not sure about the top end as it’s been through 3 different mechanics over the years of varying competence. I’ll see once I get in there.
 

YJMike92

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Would a leak down test help narrow it down?

Yes, a leak down will narrow it down. The engine I am currently rebuilding had compression readings at 200 or below. What I found upon tear down was excessive wear around the top of the pistons above the top ring.
 

chris142

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Yes, a leak down will narrow it down. The engine I am currently rebuilding had compression readings at 200 or below. What I found upon tear down was excessive wear around the top of the pistons above the top ring.
Over fueled?
 

YJMike92

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I'm not sure of the cause it was purchased not running as a parts truck.
The injection pump was out and the PO said he used lots of either to try to start it. I did have it running and it ran and sounded surprisingly well with minimum blowby. Ring gaps were wide .035 .040 upon tear down.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Thewespaul will back this up. What I've seen on the stock turbos was that what few actually used a pyrometer, the probe was located either right in front of or right after the turbo for one. For two, not a one was intercooled. It wasn't too uncommon to see pistons with wear like YJMike92 described. I think that people would be running too high of EGTs and not know it. As we all know, aluminum has a lower melting point than cast iron, so they would be damaged first.
 

Chief

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I guess I could be looking at bad valves/valve seats. I plan to pump a little bit of oil into the cylinders and do another compression test. I’ll also do a leak down test with the valve covers removed before I pull the engine. But, with burning that much oil could it be just a valve problem? (1 qt every 20 miles). Bad valves would increase crankcase pressure and blow it right past the CDR and into the turbo to be burned in the cylinder. There is a lot of oil traveling to the turbo via the CDR hose. I’d rather not have to pull the engine obviously. Would be, could be, should be...
 

Thewespaul

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If you’re burning that much oil the engine needs to come out and be torn down, no ifs or buts about it unfortunately. I think it’s more of a piston ring issue but it could be an assortment of issues burning oil due to a poor rebuild
 

Chief

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That’s what I’m thinking too. I’ll keep everyone updated as I move along. I appreciate all the insight and knowledge y’all have shared!
 

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