PENSACOLA DIESEL

Alwaysreadyrob · May 6, 2019

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Now they say they are not going to warranty them because they were painted.
They also called the R & D fuel rails ( thingys I made).
The originals fit fine though and dont leak... honestly I dont know why I even bought those stupid lines, just trying to show my truck some love I guess.

papadiesel · May 6, 2019

sorry you had to deal with those idiots, they look for every possible way of not dealing with their own problems, but the powder coating did bite you has anything sold that is altered creates problems with #Warranty

austin92 · May 6, 2019

Thewespaul said:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/272973722374

I ordered a set of these and they were way too small

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Alwaysreadyrob · May 6, 2019

dammit I just ordered them last night

Thewespaul · May 6, 2019

austin92 said:
I ordered a set of these and they were way too small

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I’ve used a few and they were tight, but I used a small c clamp to tighten the clamp so the bolt goes in easy by itself, I think if you were just trying to hold it tight with your hand you wouldn’t be able to get the bolt started

nj_m715 · May 6, 2019

I completely understand their point with the powder coating.
look what happened when I altered my car by painting it red

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nj_m715 · May 6, 2019

let's not even discuss my newly chrome plated bumpers

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nj_m715 · May 6, 2019

"looks like they are bottomed out"

if that's actually true and not just a lame excuse, then you could file/grind a little bit from the bottom of the nut?

of course, that would involve altering them again

aggiediesel01 · May 6, 2019

I was going to suggest measuring how "tall" the line nuts are at the injectors and compare to the original ones. If they are longer then the rigidity of the R&D Rails might be stopping the nuts from tightening all the way. With the rigid returns, a couple thousandths difference might cause the problem.

Oledirtypearl86 · May 7, 2019

nj_m715 said:
"looks like they are bottomed out"

if that's actually true and not just a lame excuse, then you could file/grind a little bit from the bottom of the nut?

of course, that would involve altering them again

But they already said they weren't going to warranty them so everything is worth a try

The_Josh_Bear · May 7, 2019

nj_m715 said:
"looks like they are bottomed out"

if that's actually true and not just a lame excuse, then you could file/grind a little bit from the bottom of the nut?

of course, that would involve altering them again

aggiediesel01 said:
I was going to suggest measuring how "tall" the line nuts are at the injectors and compare to the original ones. If they are longer then the rigidity of the R&D Rails might be stopping the nuts from tightening all the way. With the rigid returns, a couple thousandths difference might cause the problem.

Oledirtypearl86 said:
But they already said they weren't going to warranty them so everything is worth a try

Bingo, my thoughts exactly! Maybe, just MAYBE the lines are fine and it's just the nuts playing interference with the rails. Back off a few of the nuts and see if there is scoring on the aluminum. If so you may be a grinder away from leak-free blue lines! Make sure to clean the heck out of them if you grind em down, one flake of steel can goof up an injector.

raydav · May 10, 2019

Two things. Don't expect the lines to fit out-of-the-box. If the line is not square with the injector it can seem to be tight but will leak. The fitting cannot pull the line straight. You must make it straight. And yes, those steel lines are difficult to form correctly.

Thewespaul · May 10, 2019

I agree they are really difficult to form like stock, stanadyne casted specific dyes for each bend on each line to form it exactly into place, if you’re using a regular bender to eyeball them into place the fitment is not going to be as nice.

I think the issue here is they are advertised as a direct replacement for the original lines and priced accordingly, there’s nothing wrong with just saying that parts may need some massaging for fitment, just make sure the customer knows before the purchase.

Garbage_Mechan · May 10, 2019

Yep mechanical injection lines such as the 6.9/7.3 take some finesse to seal up. If bottoming out on the aluminum is ruled out then massaging the lines till they fit with no tweaking to get connected could be key. I have also seen injectors and pump fittings that had been dinged or scratched that would never seal till replaced

Garbage_Mechan · May 10, 2019

Another trick I use often is to loosen the leaking line while the engine is running let it spray a bit then retighten. This sometimes fixes lines that insist on sweating. As a last resort especially on an engine I could not get lines for (GMC Toro Flow) I went so far as to use an old injector and fine valve lapping compound to lap the seat on the tip of the line.
I agree with Wes x10 on the cleanliness!!! You would think I’m preparing for human surgery when I get ready to open up an injection system or assemble one.

PENSACOLA DIESEL

Alwaysreadyrob

2002 7.3 POWERSTROKE 4x4

papadiesel

Full Access Member

austin92

Full Access Member

Alwaysreadyrob

2002 7.3 POWERSTROKE 4x4

Thewespaul

Supporting Member

nj_m715

government's finest

nj_m715

government's finest

nj_m715

government's finest

aggiediesel01

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Oledirtypearl86

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The_Josh_Bear

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raydav

Full Access Member

Thewespaul

Supporting Member

Garbage_Mechan

Garbage Mechanic

Garbage_Mechan

Garbage Mechanic

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