Electronic fuel pump conversion

Here it is. I have a1986 f350 with a 6.9 diesel and I want to eliminate any air intrusion in my fuel injector system by putting an electronic fuel pump in. I have a Delphi CFE0539 12v pump and want to know if it is sufficient for the purpose. It has a max psi of 8 psi, I think it’s range is 4-8 psi. Do I need a pre filter strainer, any other special components etc? If anyone knows anything about this type of project it sure would be helpful. Thanks for letting me on the forum.

Read up...
No
Perhaps
Doughtful

It will work, at least at low RPM. Install it if you want, then put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel filter such that you can measure it going down the road. Make sure you aren't dropping down below 1 PSI or so at WOT.

I keep seeing flow issues with cheap electric pumps - about the only "acceptable" solution I've seen is someone using a high end Holley pump pushing a ton more PSI than needed, and a regulator at the filter/IP dropping it down.

I've tried a couple of cheaper pumps myself and had moderate luck - sure it'll keep 'air intrusion' from happening, but won't stop you from losing high-end power as the pump can't keep up.

Really, my opinion is to fix the underlying issue. This is usually leaky hose somewhere in the system, before the lift pump. OR, the lift pump isn't sealing internally anymore.

I also like the idea of adding a check valve to the supply side fuel filter to prevent drainback. This lets you use the mechanical lift pump(which, in testing provides a much tighter pressure regulation and much more top-end flow).

I plan on running my stock in tank fuel pump on my f250 super duty with a regulator at or near filter

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I agree with Macrobb. If you are looking for a quick fix there will be other issues down the road. I remember reading about another member that used an electric pump inline after the mechanical pump. I believe he used it to prime the filter after service. but honestly these systems where designed to be mechanical. Not that an electric system cant be done, but for a mostly stock rig it might be more trouble than its worth.

Thanks for the comments and insight.
To: Macrobb, Oldenburg, Cib and Retiringcolt...... I’ll keep all suggestions in mind.

The Delphi is going back to the store, I had doubts about this pump anyway for around $80. I did find a facet pump with a max of 11.5psi that sounds more right and a regulator sounds like a good idea. Under heavy load I might need even more but not much more, not sure.

I have the good O rings and return fuel hose to put on but no return caps. All the reviews said the new caps leak that come with the repair seal kits so they mostly used the old caps again. My old caps are on pretty tight and am afraid of breaking a few as I pull them off. It seems simple until I try removing caps. You tube tells me to pull them and shows a finished project and nothing about the pain in the a&& occurring with caps or where to get the REAL correct ones.

I’ll get it all figured out though. This truck is my new/old plow truck and occasional driver. So...If anyone has the ‘Here it is’ magic fix...this thread will still be here. Thanks again. Much appreciated.

The only problem with the new return line caps is casting flash on the inside in the oring sealing area. This can be corrected in a few seconds wth a sharp knife. I would not fool around with the heat brittle old ones. They break too easy.

As far as the pump goes for me the Facet 40222 or 40223 33 gph 9-11 max psi that everyone talks about being the one to have for the 7.3 is not it. I have been over my fuel system very carefully from the fuel pickup “showerheads” all the way through. The 40222 is a very reliable pro quality pump but falls flat and runs out of fuel psi on a hard pull. I have experimented with different therories but it comes down to not enough flow to keep up with demand creating pressure drop at high load and rpm .

I’m considering either dual 40222’s or the 40290 50 gph at 11 to 15 psi. Can’t let it get over 6 psi so something to control the psi is needed.

To coin a phrase....
"Survey says"
Holley!

RetiringColt said:

I remember reading about another member that used an electric pump inline after the mechanical pump. I believe he used it to prime the filter after service.

Click to expand...

That may have been me, BUT... I have a cheap electric in line pump before the lift pump. I do only use it to bleed the air from the fuel filter after changing it. Once, I did have to use it as an emergency alternative to the mechanical lift pump when the one I had on the engine quit pumping fuel right after leaving a gas station after I fueled up. I used it to drive a couple of miles home, stopping at Auto Zone to buy a new lift pump. Then I used it to get to work the next day. After work, I pulled the truck into the shop and changed lift pumps. I use only the mechanical lift pump at all other times.

Thanks for clarifying IDIBRONCO! I do like this concept for priming the filter. Have you experienced any flow issues drawing threw the E pump since you last posted about it?

I have a facet plumbed in tandem with my mechanical. I tried facet alone and it ran out of fuel when working hard. By plumbing it after the mechanical, I avoided the issue with having the electric fill the crankcase when the mechanical fails.
I see 10-12 psi at the filterhead at idle and never have low fuel under load any more.

Here is some of my fuel pump history. Read the captions. The current pump has a check valve.

Also note the filter.

At least twice I have driven off with the pump turned off and the engine did not seem to notice.

When I got the van it would not go over about 25 mph because the in-tank pump was disintegrating. I will never have another in-tank; even it the gas EFI I am doing.

https://goo.gl/photos/LJNV4esgmYmSzKdL8

Does anyone have advise on Airdog Raptor or Carter diesel lift pumps?

The airdog seems really expensive, but if its a highly reliable one time purchase, I'll probably spring for it.

Looks to me like Carter is cutting corners to the point they are more trouble than its worth... Things like push on electrical connectors that vibrate loose, then followed by IP problems due to loss of fuel pressure.