Project Big Red

tjsea

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I looked for a key switch that I liked but I couldn’t find anything. The direction I’m leaning now is flip down license plate with plug behind it for the remote winch controller.
You could always use a key switch from an electric start walk behind lawn mower. They are a 2 position switch that is spring loaded to the off position. Only thing would be how to reverse polarity to run the winch the opposite direction. Unless of course you used 2 switches, one for up and one for down.

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laserjock

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I looked at keys but yes it needs to run both directions.

Little update. Made a couple tweaks. Need a couple more.

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The tire is just barely touching the finned diff cover. I’m going to slide the mount forward a touch then get the right size tire. This one is oversized.

Pulled it down to finish welding it.
 

catbird7

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Another possible upgrade might be swapping the standard cable for stainless? Might be a little pricey however considering it as a one time deal on a truck you have no intentions of selling it may be something to think about?
 

laserjock

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That was the original plan. I may in the future. My truck doesn’t see a lot of abuse so I think it will hold up pretty well. If I see it corroding, I can change it. Stainless cable isn’t that expensive for the 6’ you’d need.
 

laserjock

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Welded the bracket all up.

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Shot it in acid etch primer and then Raptor liner. Looks decent. I slotted the holes a bit to have some adjustment. I think it will work fine. I picked up a white-Rogers contactor and some wire. The plan being to re-wire everything and put the control box up on the frame rail.

I finally drove the truck with the fuel pressure gauge and at WOT it drops from 8.5 to 4 PSI roughly. I also think the fan is working better although the giddyness I had was squashed when I realized the roar I heard going up the road was the front end. Left the hubs locked in. Whoops.

Anyway, time will tell.
 

laserjock

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Alright time for an update. After several episodes of figuring it out. Here’s what I finally came up with.

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There’s the bracket with the which mounted. It’s mounted with grade 5 carriage bolts.

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And here it is bolted up. Then I finally filled that last spot with a 12v power switch.

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Cont.
 

laserjock

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So here is how I decided to power it all.

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So I used the box that had the winch remote control stuff in it. I bought a winch controller for an ATV I grounded it through the plate and used that spot to run the control cable through so it’s pretty much sealed up. I stuck the circuit breaker in the box where the remote control module was.

I took that and drilled the plate to fit the license plate holes.
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On the outside, I went with a flip down license plate holder and drilled a hole for the plug to go through.

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Cont.
 

laserjock

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Wires are all loomed up.
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The basic idea here is I used a heavy duty contactor because I didn’t want to leave power on it all the time. Eventually the plan is to put a heavy power port behind the plate too. I pulled 2AWG cable to power the contactor. It should easily run a 1000W inverter.

And it works!

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While I was at it I pulled an extra strand for the bumper lights.

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That about does that. Now I need to figure out why I have a wet spot on the back side of the rear passenger tire.

[emoji849]
 

laserjock

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So went to investigate the damp spot on the tire. What I found was surprising.

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Luckily I don’t throw things away so I had the spring and pin.

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Needed the spring too.

Turns out the dampness is a slight axle seal leak. It’s not enough to get on the shoes so I’m not tackling it this week. I used scot seals so I’m not sure what the deal is.

Anyway. It’s all back together. This tool is a life saver.

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Hopefully that does it to get through this first trip.
 

chillman88

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That's pretty odd...

Turns out the dampness is a slight axle seal leak. It’s not enough to get on the shoes so I’m not tackling it this week. I used scot seals so I’m not sure what the deal is.

I did too and had a leak. Not sure why either. I did it again with scot seals but put a coat of RTV on the parts that don't move. Haven't had a problem since. I know you shouldn't have to, but it fixed the problem for me and that's all that matters in my book.
 

catbird7

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[QUOTE=

Turns out the dampness is a slight axle seal leak. It’s not enough to get on the shoes so I’m not tackling it this week. I used scot seals so I’m not sure what the deal is.


Make certain you have good lock washers on the axle bolts and a little "blue" thread locker on them also a good idea. Numerous times I've had leaks start because those bolts work loose.
 

laserjock

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Turns out the dampness is a slight axle seal leak. It’s not enough to get on the shoes so I’m not tackling it this week. I used scot seals so I’m not sure what the deal is. Make certain you have good lock washers on the axle bolts and a little "blue" thread locker on them also a good idea. Numerous times I've had leaks start because those bolts work loose.[/QUOTE said:
Sorry. It’s not the axle it’s the hub seal. Misspoke at whatever ridiculous hour that was last night.
 

laserjock

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Well, what started out as a simple oil change and rear brake adjustment spiraled downward quickly.

Dropping the drain plug and I look up and see this.

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Huh. That’s not right. Last couple times I backed the trailer up I had a noise. Guess I found that. Got it back together with some loctite. I’m thinking I may have put 12mm bolts in before by mistake and they just rattled out. That’s all I can figure. Got it back together with grade 8 half inch bolts. Hopefully that will take care of all that.

Went to adjust the brakes up, drivers side behaves normal. Go to the passenger side. Crap. That’s a lot of wetness. Pull the wheel. Wheel cylinder is leaking (to super surprised but I hoped I’d get lucky) and the self adjuster clip is not anywhere near the star wheel. So now I get to disassemble it, change wheel cylinder and bleed the brakes tomorrow night. So much for driving it to work tomorrow. Guess I’ll shake it down with the camper attached. LOL

Did manage to get the oil changed though. [emoji849]
 

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