Edit
Only 2 kinds or rv ever built...
The ones that leak now, and the ones that will!
I can't even remember how many people I've talk to with brand new trailers and motorhomes that already leak.
so did ya ever diagnose this???
Diagnose what? Which trans and diff it has? C6 and Dana 70 4.10 open (not limited slip).
You still feel this way?
I read thru this, no where is it stated,
Are you living and traveling in this???
Yes I still feel it was an ok buy and that I should keep chipping away at repairs and yes I full time in it.
It's true, I could have gotten a newer gas motorhome for $5k-7k with way less rot, but it would have still been 25+ years old and probably and everything (tires, shocks, brakes, belts, hoses, etc) rotten and worn out on it too. Mileage would probably be worse too, even with an E4OD. This was $3200 before the immediate $1200 90% complete brake work, $532 for 6 el cheapo tires (plus mount/balance), and maybe another $1000 since on other parts I've done myself, including:
- All radiator & heater hoses ($30-40?)
- Coolant flush (about $100 I'd say including radiator flush solution and a cheap plastic flush kit)
- Radiator cap ($7)
- Thermostat (~$30)
- Fan clutch ($66, IDIBRONCO helped with installation when I was going through KS)
- Brake pads (Bendix Fleet Metlok MKD120FM, $23)
- Brake booster ($105)
- Vacuum pump ($67)
- Fuel hose ($?)
- Rear shocks ($71 for both, Monroe 555043 Gas-Mag RV)
- Front shocks ($190 for a pair of Bilstein, ordered and delivered to my mom's house, just not installed yet)
- Equus mechanical coolant temp gauge ($13; I had $10 gift credit on Amazon)
- LubeLocker reusable differential cover gasket (no RTV needed) ($25)
- Paper air filter (Mahle 91111018502ML - $13)
- NOS K&N filter ($39)
- Turbo blanket ($26)
- Power steering pressure hose ($8, the o-ring leaks on the old original, not installed yet)
- Power steering return hose ($5, uses clamps on hose barbs)
- All belts, plus spares (~$35, RockAuto closeouts mostly)
Some RV area related stuff:
- RV entry door window & frame ($61)
- Rear emergency exit window ($88)
- Dicor lap sealant (for sealing roof, $40)
- Electric fuel pump for the generator ($9)
- Replacement compartment hatch for the power cord ($14)
- Replacement 30A cord end ($9)
- Anode rod for water hater ($13)
- Roof hatch cover lid (~$30, paid retail)
- Gas line and fittings to hard plumb Buddy Heater I already had to the low pressure LP system (~$50)
All that comes out to about $1,200. Not too horrible, I suppose.
There's probably another $200 (or more) worh of misc for both the chassis and the RV area but that gives you a good idea.
I'm not counting oils like chassis & generator engines, differential, power steering (from the leak) since that's normal stuff you get on anything. Also not counting the solar panels and related parts, I'd buy them no matter the RV.
I had just bought new EverStart Maxx 65N batteries for the truck like 2 months prior and the RV needed batteries, so I just swapped them over, saving me $200 and not letting the new batteries sit there and rot in the truck.
I could drop it off at my mom's and switch back to the truck camper if I really wanted to, but I don't. I like the room, comfort and running water I have in here. The truck constantly needed stuff too, being only 2 years newer. It's driveshaft carrier bearing went out the same day the passenger side window mysteriously shattered while driving at 60mph, shattering it. Got shafted by a shop on the differential. I did the glow plugs, glow plug relay, alternator, starter (had a shop do it), vacuum pump, inner wheel seal on the rear, front brake work (calipers, hoses, pads), whole front end (tie rods, ball joints, shocks), tires, etc etc and on and on. Yeah I started all over with the motorome but I like the setup better than a slide in camper. And I HATED pulling a trailer, I tried that last year.