IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Not so helpful hint: use lots of four letter words. It may not help, but it won't hurt either.
Buying 85 IDI ATS turbo motorhome!
- Thread starter Cubey
- Start date
Maybe I can reach the lines from the radiator side. I do have flare nut wrenches so there's no danger of rounding them off. I have long slim arms that can get into engine bay places that you might not expect.
I changed FWD minivan spark plugs on the firewall side without tilting the engine once, which is normal protocol for whatever it was. A Windstar, maybe. I was trying to get a lousy mechanic to get back to work on my vehicle at the time so I dug in and changed the plugs on his other customer's spark plugs so he wouldn't have that excuse for not working on mine.
He never finished mine though, even after several months. I printed the manuals, bought the differential tools and lent them to him. I also paid his electric bill early on as payment for his work (that he never finished!) because they were literally about to shut off his electric and I felt bad for his kids, plus how can he work if he has no power in his shop? The electric company worker was actually there to shut him off and he got them to stop. He had ripped the differential apart and had no idea how to put it back together, because he saw a rust ring on a full floating axle shaft, indicating a bad bearing he said.
It had to be towed away, paid another shop that also ripped me off and left me with dangerous brakes that damaged my new brake shoes and drum. I ended up fixing the botched brakes I had took it in for in the first place.
So it cost me is electric bill, a tow, a differential rebuild plus the brake shoe job (the original job I wanted!), a lost new drum the second shop stole, a rear brake adjustment I paid a trusted shop before I realized the problem, a $1 piece either fell off, or it was shoved together without it.
In the end, I redid the brake shoes myself on both sides after over $1500 in money paid to 2 shops, a tow, plus parts I bought. I didn't trust the second shop to touch it ever again. They were big fat liars when I complained to the BBB about them. I complained about the brakes before I left the lot and they claimed I was paying $20 tips to everyone and that I had no complaints. Riiiight.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I know that you can remove the injector pump in trucks with a turbo, but I really have no idea with a van. I've never even seen a van with a turbo.
It's cramped but I can probably blindly reach in from the grill side (barely). I might have to remove the fuel filter is all.
View from the top of the radiator:
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The fuel filter is new. It will just have to go back on again after. I did that on my truck for some reason and it wasn't a problem.
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I stuck my phone way in to get this shot. The air cleaner isn't in the way too much I don't think.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I hope it goes smoothly for you.
genscripter
Full Access Member
It's a PITA: http://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/fuel-system/6-9-or-7-3-idi-injector-pump-ip-replacement-in-a-van/
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genscripter
Full Access Member
A lot I wanted to comment on this thread, but didn't have time last night.
Very interesting setup. The down-pipe is wonky and huge. All the equipment is massive compared to the hypermax and the banks van kits. I'm surprised the doghouse fits around that monster. Also, what kind of insulation do you have? I have a turbo blanket on the turbo, and that felt-like insulation on the underside of my doghouse (that was typical with the IDI vans). I notice on your pics, you have that reflecting stuff, which I've only seen on the gasser vans. I'm 99% sure this was originally a gasser. I'd be worried about the turbo getting that doghouse really hot. See if you can find the diesel felt-style insulation instead.
Wow. No CDR too. This is odd. I'd argue this ATS kit is a bit simpler and nicer, but that air filter setup is horrendous. Unlike the Banks kit that has a few dozen feet of CDR breather hose robbing all the van engine bay real estate, this ATS his pretty simple, almost identical to the Hypermax layout. Just bigger. And no CDR. Also, the ATS kit has it's EGT probe at the pedestal, like the Banks, but unlike the Hypermax (which is on the driver's side up-pipe.
That down-pipe connector is exactly how I modified my hypermax down-pipe. I was sick of that hypermax connector, so I put in a squeeze-style exhaust clamp so I can easily pull it whenever I work on the exhaust system. I like my positioning better, because I let my down pipe go from the turbo all the way to the underside of hte van before I clamped it down. The clamp is down by the c6 crossmember, so that way the egt's a little less strong. I'd be worried about this ATS location, for corrosion and heat damage.
DUDE! Too bad... I was hoping you found my old Skynyrd tape I lost in '87.
No clue. This is the first time I'm seeing an ATS van turbo kit. I've owned a banks and hypermax, but never the ATS.
Keep those gauges. The better guages I've had were the old ones I got off junkyard or parts vans. The new egt and boost gauges are complete garbage.
Well, except one. Last year I finally spurged and got a decent Autometer egt gauge and it's still going well. Just one bad thing, it got some moisture in the gauge and it annoys me. But for now, it works ok.
he hehe. reminds me of
Yeah. Passenger side fender, under the battery tray, very very very far down. If you live in rust country, that can is already rotted and the PO likely bypassed it.
hesutton is right, that IP is near its end, likely due it sitting for so long. You can check the action of your IP by fiddling with the metering valve in the reservoir. If it's at all sticky in anyway, you're going to have problems and it'll be a PITA if you run out of fuel. Here's a video of me showing how to manipulate the metering valve from my van:
http://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/fue...-metering-valve-on-6-9-7-3-idi-injector-pump/
more...
Very interesting setup. The down-pipe is wonky and huge. All the equipment is massive compared to the hypermax and the banks van kits. I'm surprised the doghouse fits around that monster. Also, what kind of insulation do you have? I have a turbo blanket on the turbo, and that felt-like insulation on the underside of my doghouse (that was typical with the IDI vans). I notice on your pics, you have that reflecting stuff, which I've only seen on the gasser vans. I'm 99% sure this was originally a gasser. I'd be worried about the turbo getting that doghouse really hot. See if you can find the diesel felt-style insulation instead.
Wow. No CDR too. This is odd. I'd argue this ATS kit is a bit simpler and nicer, but that air filter setup is horrendous. Unlike the Banks kit that has a few dozen feet of CDR breather hose robbing all the van engine bay real estate, this ATS his pretty simple, almost identical to the Hypermax layout. Just bigger. And no CDR. Also, the ATS kit has it's EGT probe at the pedestal, like the Banks, but unlike the Hypermax (which is on the driver's side up-pipe.
That down-pipe connector is exactly how I modified my hypermax down-pipe. I was sick of that hypermax connector, so I put in a squeeze-style exhaust clamp so I can easily pull it whenever I work on the exhaust system. I like my positioning better, because I let my down pipe go from the turbo all the way to the underside of hte van before I clamped it down. The clamp is down by the c6 crossmember, so that way the egt's a little less strong. I'd be worried about this ATS location, for corrosion and heat damage.
DUDE! Too bad... I was hoping you found my old Skynyrd tape I lost in '87.
No clue. This is the first time I'm seeing an ATS van turbo kit. I've owned a banks and hypermax, but never the ATS.
Keep those gauges. The better guages I've had were the old ones I got off junkyard or parts vans. The new egt and boost gauges are complete garbage.
Well, except one. Last year I finally spurged and got a decent Autometer egt gauge and it's still going well. Just one bad thing, it got some moisture in the gauge and it annoys me. But for now, it works ok.
Why not just sleep in the motorhome?
he hehe. reminds me of
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Yeah. Passenger side fender, under the battery tray, very very very far down. If you live in rust country, that can is already rotted and the PO likely bypassed it.
hesutton is right, that IP is near its end, likely due it sitting for so long. You can check the action of your IP by fiddling with the metering valve in the reservoir. If it's at all sticky in anyway, you're going to have problems and it'll be a PITA if you run out of fuel. Here's a video of me showing how to manipulate the metering valve from my van:
http://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/fue...-metering-valve-on-6-9-7-3-idi-injector-pump/
more...
genscripter
Full Access Member
This is just really odd. I know it would be a lot of work, but if I were you, I'd figure out an alternative setup. I really like the Hypermax cylinder, because it sits up high in the engine bay, and allows you to get access to all the injectors except 2 and 4 from the back, and you can get 1, 2, and 3 from the front. #4 is not reachable without pulling parts off. But the cylinder is still the best. The Banks air filter was awful. It blocks the entire engine bay from the front. Even just refilling the oil is a pita without a rube-goldbergy style funnel and extension.
You can see pics of these differences here: http://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/turbo/differences-between-idi-van-turbo-kits/
Another info update:
It has a Dana 70 HD 4.10 rear end.... and a C4?! Code G! Whyyyy?? Why didn't they put a C6?
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The motorhome door jamb tag:
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Interesting-er. This makes me think even more that this was a gasser originally. The reflecting doghouse insulation was my first clue, but this might clinch it.
That turbo will be noticeable under any load. If you can, find a fellow IDI'er on this forum in your area who doesn't have a turbo. Drive that slow-ass beast up a nearby hill or mountain. Then go back to your turbo-ed RV. You'll notice the major difference.
If you are looking for boost numbers to impress the local hoochie-mamas, that's not going to be much. You are right, you will only see that sort of numberage under load, but you don't need an excessive amount of boost to wake up these engines. When I'm bumming around town, my boost usually never exceeds 4psi unless I really ham on it. But that 4psi lets me drive my IDI van with the rest of L.A. traffic, who like to get to point A and point B really quick.
Those look a lot like my dual tanks on my Clubwagon. If they are, then the rear is around 21 gallons and the middle is 15. At least, that's the max I've been able to fill mine up with at the pump.
ALWAYS keep a spare vac pump in your IDI van. They are pretty cheap if you buy one online, but if you need one on the road, they are harder and harder to find in the auto parts stores. They are small, and they easy to stow away for an emergency.
Another tip: Go find a pulley for it now. Lots of places will sell you a vac pump wihtout a pulley or with a serpentine belt pulley. Then you gotta find a way to pull the pulley on the side of the road somewhere. Tell me about it. I got stuck in Prudhoe Bay Alaska in 2013 and Prince Albert Saskatchewan in 2017 trying to pull off that darn pulley with awful Canadian Tire pullers. The only thing worse than Canadian Tire is Harbor Fright.
So, keep a spare vac pump and install the right pulley on it now. Then find a spot in the RV to keep it when it inevitably fails. It sucks to lose your brakes, tranny shifting, cruise, and climate control on a road trip.
I couldn't disagree more. Wrenching on my van is like meditation for me. I do computer programming and architectural design for a living, and I can't wait to get out of the office and work with my hands.
Plus, I can fine tune everything on my van to my liking. There are not a lot of good IDI (or diesel) mechanics on the west side of LA, so Im not entrusting my vehicle to someone with a cursory understanding of the intricacies of this beast. I get to modify my fuel system, electrical system, transmission system, exhaust, everything by working on it myself.
I'm so confident with my maintenance, that I'd be prepared to drive this van to Nova Scotia and back, with basically a day's notice. I'd check the fluids, do a few oil changes, and be good to go. If you want to do it right, do it yourself.
the engine code said 6.9.... Interesting. I've never seen that kind of insulation on a van for a diesel. maybe it came from a gasser donor van. Regardless, you might want to invest in a turbo blanket for extra peace of mind. Hate to have your RV go up in flames on a big incline.
I personally wouldn't like this setup, but everyone has their own tastes. Here's the hypermax cylinder style air filter:
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Lots of room to reach in and find stuff.
More....
genscripter
Full Access Member
That pic of the driver's side of the engine and doghouse is crazy. That VC breather is wild. No CDR.... just hose.
I already don't like the burn and exhaust marks on the inside of the doghouse there, man. You might have some exhaust leaks (you should get them sealed up as soon as possible, cuz it's easy for the gasses to migrate to the inside of the van cab around the poor seals of the doghouse. can't be breathing that stuff in), and start looking for a turbo blanket to help keep the heat away from the doghouse materials.
It's either use the cursewords liberally and let the frustration flow out your fingertips, or let it build up with SERENITY NOW!!!!
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I already posted my video about getting the IP out of the van. It's not too bad. Just 4 days of work.
.The stall issue it had at first went away after a tank or two of fuel. It had questionable old fuel in it when I got it, so it took a little bit to dilute it away with fresh fuel. The fuel system is acting better than my truck's, after I did the o-rings. (I did the truck's o-rings 2 years ago. The truck, if it sits for several days or more, it takes a bit more cranking to start it, despite an electric fuel pump. The motorhome started perfectly the other day, after sitting over a week, and it still has a mechanical fuel pump.
I have an NA F250 and it feels fast compared to this off the line, but it weights 1-1/2 to 2 tons less and it's half as tall. At first, I drove this back then switched back to the truck until I got new tires on the RV. So going from the RV to the truck was night and day. But, that's on relatively flat roads. Plus it just feels totally different driving the two. When I switched to driving my mom's car one day, I felt boxed in, in a 2003 Ford Taurus wagon, vs the van cab.
I had to get a vac pump for my F250 while out on the road a couple years ago. OReilly in that city got it no problem. I bought a pulley puller kit from Napa that fits the odd concave vac pump pulley and I keep that tool set with me. The free rentals at oreilly and autozone wouldn't fit the pulley. So yeah, I can change the pulley on the side of the road without much problem.
Huh, it could be, but it seems odd that it was replaced, unless the old one got damaged from turbo heat. I'll keep a turbo blanket in mind. I carry a fire extinguisher so, at least I wouldn't be totally SOL if something happened before I got one. I don't plan to go up any mountains anytime in at least the next 2 months. Maybe in June I can budget one in.
Hm, I'm usually very sensitive to exhaust fumes and such things, and I haven't noticed any at all. The passenger side of the cover doesn't seal at all for some reason, I can stick fingers between it. If it did come from a gasser, maybe the "burn exhaust marks" are from the gasser it was on before. My mom's car leaks oil and the oil odor comes in if the blower is set to vent/regular ac (not max ac).
Unrelated but on the subject of being sensitive to odors I'm usually gagging from people's BO when no one else seems to even notice. So it seems odd that there would be an exhaust leak I wouldn't notice, unless the diesel exhaust just doesn't have the odor that I pick up on.
Black dawg
Registered User
Looks like the perfect place for an 085 kit, every thing is right there with the doghouse off. They are a major pain in a pickup. Is there any sign of the cast downpipe (where it slips into the turbine housing) leaking? If so, figure out a way to make sure it cant come out. I have had them slide out with heat cycles (uphill, down hill, and back up hill again.
How would you fix a leak? I've never done anything exhaust wise.
genscripter
Full Access Member
Make sure you have a leak first. I just run the engine in my driveway with the doghouse off at night, then get a good quality bright flashlight and look for smoke. If you have an exhaust leak, mark it and reattach your exhaust connections in the morning. On the banks kit, there is a gasket between the down-pipe and turbo, but I don't know what the ATS has. The hypermax kit has a expansion ring that seals up once you get the exhaust warmed up.
For any place that doesn't completely seal up, I use some accoustical goop to patch up any connection. This isn't rated for really hot temps (like near the turbo), but it works well down the pipes. I have a coupler from the end of my down-pipe to my exhaust and I use that sealant to seal up any leaks. Also, I've used some of it on pin-hole leaks on the hypermax up-pipes, but not a lot of goop. It can start on fire so I try to avoid using any of that close to the turbo. Hypermax's design for the up-pipes is kind of idiotic, and if they are not perfectly lined up, there will be some exhaust leaks.
Black dawg
Registered User
the downpipe is just slip fit into the turbine housing, with a piston ring for a seal. Most of the downpipes are seized into the turbine housing and it takes a lot of work to get one out when you need to. Some must not fit real tight because you will notice soot marks around it.....those are the ones to watch for falling out.
