Engine prep for engine swap

cardana24

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hey guys I want to document the engine that I am attempting to swap into my truck. This is a na engine out of a 93 f250. I want to put it in my 94 factory turbo truck. I thought I was going to use another factory turbo engine but that engine is seized. My plan is to strip the 93 engine down and replace the headgaskets just for good measure. Then reassemble using the best parts I have laying around. I plan to swap in my fuel pump and injectors from my broken factory turbo engine because it has about 40k less miles, and the injectors only have a few thousand miles on them. I plan to post pictures while I am going. Please feel free to comment and point out any problems you see or advise you have. Thanks.
 

cardana24

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This engine is way dirtier than the engine I took out of my truck but I have seen this one run recently so it has that going for it.

What would cause the screen in the intake to be torn up like that?

I have remove the injection pump and lines. The intake manifold is remove and the valley pan has been removed. I removed the rockers and pushrods. I am currently taking the oil pan off to check things out down below, then I will remove the heads once I find the tightening/loosening sequence.

Is it common for these engines to be so dirty up top? This engine has 221k miles and has been driven very little in the last year.
 

cardana24

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Heads are off. Starting scraping. How do you check for cavitation damage?
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Oledirtypearl86

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I've herd with a ultrasonic thickness gauge but I've used them before and feel it might be a shot I .the dark because of the size of the cavitation wear
 

Thewespaul

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You can’t really do anything about cavitation without taking the engine down further. I would clean as much as the crud as you can out of the top end. Check the valve seals to see if that’s causing carbon buildup. I’d clean and lap the valves while you have it apart. Pull the oil pan and clean the crud out of there, it looks like that engine has skipped a few oil changes.
 

cardana24

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You can’t really do anything about cavitation without taking the engine down further. I would clean as much as the crud as you can out of the top end. Check the valve seals to see if that’s causing carbon buildup. I’d clean and lap the valves while you have it apart. Pull the oil pan and clean the crud out of there, it looks like that engine has skipped a few oil changes.
Yeah I plan on changing the valve seals. I’ll check the valves while I’m doing that. I have not dug into one of these engine before but this one just seems really dirty compared to the engine I took out of my truck. Who knows we will see. I finished today off by doing the coolant passage mod. That was a lot of in to retrieve plugs
That I knocked down further into the engine. I had to get creative with a vacuum since they are not magnetic.


If going that far , might it be wise to check the bearing and maybe rering?

I hear you but I am not trying to get into rebuilding this engine. I am fine with new gaskets and rolling with it. I already have way more time into this than I had hoped to, but I know that’s always the case.
 

cardana24

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Here is how it’s being left for the day. Coolant passages in plugged in the block and the heads. Also the engine does not look like such a monster with everything taken off of it.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Since you have the oil pan off, if you wanted to check the bearings, now would be the easiest time to do it. I can't blame you for not wanting to rebuild it. I'm just suggesting it. The first plug that I knocked out of my engine went all the way through into the coolant passages. I left it there. Since it wansn't magnetic and felt harder than standard freeze plugs, I assumed that it was stainless steel.
 

cardana24

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Since you have the oil pan off, if you wanted to check the bearings, now would be the easiest time to do it. I can't blame you for not wanting to rebuild it. I'm just suggesting it. The first plug that I knocked out of my engine went all the way through into the coolant passages. I left it there. Since it wansn't magnetic and felt harder than standard freeze plugs, I assumed that it was stainless steel.

For the coolant plugs ( I knocked all but one down in the engine) I used a 3/8” hose hooked to my shop vac with tape. My method was sucking the plug up to the opening then grabbing it with the needle nose pliers and pulling them through. It took multiple tries to get each one out.
 

IDIBRONCO

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For the coolant plugs ( I knocked all but one down in the engine) I used a 3/8” hose hooked to my shop vac with tape. My method was sucking the plug up to the opening then grabbing it with the needle nose pliers and pulling them through. It took multiple tries to get each one out.
Good idea. Since I've been driving mine for about 8 months, I think I'm just going to leave mine in there.;)
 
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