Massive! oil consumption

Chief

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It makes sense to me. Might try that tomorrow night and let it soak on through till the morning. Then change the oil.

On my agenda this weekend is rebuilding the turbo. Still pretty sure I have both a leaky turbo and stuck rings.

Ran her hard this morning. Didn’t have a load but drove her like I stole her for a good 60 miles. 5 quarts low after sitting a few hours after. I hate trying to rely on miracles in a bottle but aside from pulling the oil pan, not sure how to get rings unstuck.
 

nelstomlinson

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It makes sense to me. Might try that tomorrow night and let it soak on through till the morning. Then change the oil.

I've run a bottle of seafoam in my engine oil for thousands of miles before, with minimal improvement in this truck, so I won't even change the oil.
 

Clb

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Rings need TIME to soak to git the glazing soft, (think about how long it took to get this way) then the combination of heat and torque from a BIG load will help blow out the cobwebs.
I do not think hot rodding around empty does much, fill the bed up, tie on a trailer (as big as possible) and head for the hills with a gallon of oil or 2.
 

Chief

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Rings need TIME to soak to git the glazing soft, (think about how long it took to get this way) then the combination of heat and torque from a BIG load will help blow out the cobwebs.
I do not think hot rodding around empty does much, fill the bed up, tie on a trailer (as big as possible) and head for the hills with a gallon of oil or 2.
Gonna load her down and pull another work truck this Saturday. Still plan to soak the rings Friday night and change the oil and blow out the cylinders Saturday morning. Will keep y’all posted.
 

chris142

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Excuse my ignorance but m not very versed on the turbo engines. Is there a way to take the turbo out of the equasion.? Unbolt it from the intake,drive it and see if any oil is running out of it?
 

79jasper

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The easiest thing you could do is unbolt the downpipe and look inside. If burning the oil in the engine, you shouldn't have raw oil in the exhaust.
If leaking out the exhaust side of the turbo, expect to see pooling/running oil the tail pipe.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Chief

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Excuse my ignorance but m not very versed on the turbo engines. Is there a way to take the turbo out of the equasion.? Unbolt it from the intake,drive it and see if any oil is running out of it?
I’m not sure. If I remove it from the engine I have the exhaust inlet and outlet left open. I could cap the oil supply line if it were removed though. I wouldn’t disconnect the oil supply and leave the turbo in bc then the turbo would run without oil and it’d be toast.

I wonder if I disconnected the wastegate actuator if that would do it? I think that would prevent the turbine from spinning up since it runs off of exhaust gas.
 

Chief

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The easiest thing you could do is unbolt the downpipe and look inside. If burning the oil in the engine, you shouldn't have raw oil in the exhaust.
If leaking out the exhaust side of the turbo, expect to see pooling/running oil the tail pipe.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
I’ve taken it out and inspected the down pipe. I don’t have any fresh oil in the exhaust side. I did have fresh oil in the exhaust inlet though.
 

Chief

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I’m not sure. If I remove it from the engine I have the exhaust inlet and outlet left open. I could cap the oil supply line if it were removed though. I wouldn’t disconnect the oil supply and leave the turbo in bc then the turbo would run without oil and it’d be toast.

I wonder if I disconnected the wastegate actuator if that would do it? I think that would prevent the turbine from spinning up since it runs off of exhaust gas.
So after doing a bit of reading, disconnecting the waste gate actuator wouldn’t disable the turbo. It’d likely ruin the turbo since it regulates the amount of exhaust gases into the turbo and prevents the turbo from spinning too high.
 
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Macrobb

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It’d likely ruin the turbo since it regulates the amount of exhaust gases into the turbo and prevents the turbo from spinning too high.
Nah, it won't - it's more designed to limit boost pressure to 10-ish PSI of boost. I run mine disconnected, but at no time have I been able to get a factory turbo setup above about 16. This engine(with a sketchy valve somewhere) won't push more than 13, even with plenty of fuel(and making plenty of power - well over 200rwhp it feels like).

I'm not sure what the RPM would need to be to actually be too high, and what the air flow/boost pressures would be at that time, but so far I haven't been able to kill mine, nor heard of others actually pushing a factory turbo until it dies.

That being said, it won't affect you either way.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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So after doing a bit of reading, disconnecting the waste gate actuator wouldn’t disable the turbo. It’d likely ruin the turbo since it regulates the amount of exhaust gases into the turbo and prevents the turbo from spinning too high.
You're correct that it will not disable the turbo but rather keep all the exhaust going through the turbine. However the gate will blow open anyway around 13-14 psi. I do it all the time. :D
Also this is well within the turbo map still, and will not over-speed it.
 

Chief

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You're correct that it will not disable the turbo but rather keep all the exhaust going through the turbine. However the gate will blow open anyway around 13-14 psi. I do it all the time. :D
Also this is well within the turbo map still, and will not over-speed it.

Good to know
 

Chief

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Ok everyone. Update...Glow plugs pulled and cylinders soaking in diesel until tomorrow morning. Will blow them out and change the oil then heading for the hills with another 3/4 ton in tow!
 

Clb

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Keep it on the governor as much as possible.
Fingers crossed!
Also do not freak OUT when she wet stacks (blows unburnt fuel for several minutes) upon statrup, let her warm up good and raise rpms slowly to cook off the ring lands full of fuel.
 
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