3.55 ls direct swap?

Diesel8873ne

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I have a 88 f250 hd with 355 open diff single wheel wondering what year 355 ls axles will fit or what one won't whatever is easier. And if the new axle is single wheel is it a direct swap or doea anything else have to be changed out aswell such as driveshaft ect...

Side not guy wants 200 for one near me not sure the year is that a fair price ?

Edit: it's out of a 95 7.3
 

franklin2

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They update those rearend in the 90's sometime, I can't remember the exact year. If you get the updated one you will need a little bit shorter driveshaft.
 

Diesel8873ne

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That's what I was worried about, I would assume that the brakes switch right over if it's not a hd. Still not sure if 200 is a fair price
 

u2slow

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Usually not enough difference in pinion length pre/post the 92ish changeover to worry about. Always test fit though. Not hard to relocate an axle a little bit if needed. Copy these in a 3" format: http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Axle Offset Plates.html More lift can fix a 'too-long' driveshaft also.

Most F250/350 diffs '77-97 will fit. More difference in pinion lengths with the '77-84ish Dana 60/70 diffs though.

$200 for any 1-ton diff is a good price IMHO.
 

franklin2

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That's what I was worried about, I would assume that the brakes switch right over if it's not a hd. Still not sure if 200 is a fair price

Make sure it is a full floating axle with the black piece sticking out of the center of the brake drum. All HD's were full float axles, but they did make one with 2 1/2" wide brakes and one with 3 inch wide brake shoes.
 

austin92

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3” brake shoes were for the duallies. Dually rear ends will bolt in a srw but they’re wider. Your 88 should have a 10.25 short spline and the 95 will be a long spline 10.25. Direct swap, just longer pinion splines. I believe they changed that and wheel bearing oil seals and slinger in April ‘94.

Factory limited slips wear quickly then act more like an open diff. It’s better than open but I’d hold off and get something better like a truetrac or auburn ls if money allows. If you do choose that route 10.5 diffs and gears fit older 10.25s


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franklin2

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When I punch in a f250 at the parts stores, both types of brakes come up. I don't know exactly the score on this, but the donor f250 pickup I bought for the zf 5speed had a single rear wheel axle but had the wider brakes and larger sized wheel studs. The u-joints were larger, I had to rob the yoke off that rearend so the driveshaft would fit up, the driveshaft from that truck weighed twice as much as the driveshaft from my truck with the c6.
 

u2slow

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I thought skinnier brake shoes were for the semi-float 10.25". Surprised to hear about studs smaller than 9/16" on a 10.25"

Recheck your yoke swap.... doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling. The 88 yoke has a shorter spline than the 95 pinion gear. Swapping yokes is generally not a good idea on crush-sleeve diffs. Its a fine line between not tight enough (and comes undone) and crushing the sleeve further (overloading broken-in/used pinion bearings).
 

franklin2

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I thought skinnier brake shoes were for the semi-float 10.25". Surprised to hear about studs smaller than 9/16" on a 10.25"

Recheck your yoke swap.... doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling. The 88 yoke has a shorter spline than the 95 pinion gear. Swapping yokes is generally not a good idea on crush-sleeve diffs. Its a fine line between not tight enough (and comes undone) and crushing the sleeve further (overloading broken-in/used pinion bearings).

I was yoke swapping 1989 to 1989. That is why I could not believe the zf truck I used as a donor was so different from my c6 truck as far as the driveshaft and rearend. My c6 shaft would have worked, it would have been a little tight but I think there was room, probably because I have a 4 inch lift. But I liked those heavier duty u-joints and heavier driveshaft on the zf truck so I swapped it in.
 

u2slow

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89 to 89... that's better. Same applies to the crush sleeve though.

Manual (and later OBS) trucks tended to get the beefier driveshafts. :cool
 

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