ARP stud install and engine tear down

When I bought the truck it was leaking coolant from both head gaskets. It was midwinter so I had a shop do them - while the heads were off it turns out they were both cracked so I bought a set of rebuilt heads. Didn't have plans to turbo it then, so stayed with bolts instead of even more $$ to buy a set of studs.

No idea if the shop cleaned out the bolt holes or not... could chase them with the proper undersized tap welded to the end of a rod, I suppose, then blow out with compressed air?

Now I have a turbo setup installed (stock pump and injectors) and don't plan to run over 10 psi. But you know how that goes

DrCharles said:

When I bought the truck it was leaking coolant from both head gaskets. It was midwinter so I had a shop do them - while the heads were off it turns out they were both cracked so I bought a set of rebuilt heads. Didn't have plans to turbo it then, so stayed with bolts instead of even more $$ to buy a set of studs.

No idea if the shop cleaned out the bolt holes or not... could chase them with the proper undersized tap welded to the end of a rod, I suppose, then blow out with compressed air?

Now I have a turbo setup installed (stock pump and injectors) and don't plan to run over 10 psi. But you know how that goes

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I’d say if they put bolts back in they probably didn’t clean them. With studs you have to chase thoroughly or you will have clearance issues with rocker arms.

You should be good up to 12-15 PSI with the bolts. Before you go that high, I'd recommend an intercooler.

Jimmy Stewart said:

With studs you have to chase thoroughly or you will have clearance issues with rocker arms.

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With the studs from Justin, I have to do a little bit of grinding on the rocker arm pedestals. I also had to do some grinding on the top of one of the studs in order for it to clear the rocker arm itself. I cleaned all of the holes the same, but this studs stuck up about 1/4" higher than the others did. They also stick about twice as far out of the nuts as the ARP studs that Thewespaul has on his shop truck. The next time the heads come off, I'll put a set of ARPs in there. I'll admit that there could be a really stubborn piece of crud in the bottom of this one hole, but I don't think so. You can feel the difference between bottoming out the cleaner in the hole and going through the crud if you're really careful.

So here is an update. All studs were torqued to 110 ft/lbs. I torqued to 40, then 60, then 80, then 100 and finally 110. I have cleaned and installed push rods as well and getting ready for heater box. Finally seeing a light at the end of the tunnel.

Also, this is the torque wrench I used.





It fit fine on everywhere on the studs using either a regular or deep well socket. I was actually shocked at how easy it was torquing them down.

Jimmy Stewart said:

Also, this is the torque wrench I used.

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It fit fine on everywhere on the studs using either a regular or deep well socket. I was actually shocked at how easy it was torquing them down.

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Yahoo! Cool torque wrench, I bet the adjustable head angle helped here and there. I re-torqued my head bolts a few months ago and it wasnt as bad as I thought, but I still had the A/C housing on. I wish I'd thought to try and take it off... but that's nothing compared to what you're up against. Glad to see it coming back together!

The_Josh_Bear said:

Yahoo! Cool torque wrench, I bet the adjustable head angle helped here and there. I re-torqued my head bolts a few months ago and it wasnt as bad as I thought, but I still had the A/C housing on. I wish I'd thought to try and take it off... but that's nothing compared to what you're up against. Glad to see it coming back together!

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Thanks @The_Josh_Bear. If I ever do this again it will be engine out of truck and every new part sitting in front of me.

Jimmy Stewart said:

Thanks @The_Josh_Bear. If I ever do this again it will be engine out of truck and every new part sitting in front of me.

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Live and learn. I'd finish up the engine first. That way it will be sealed and dirt won't accidentally get down inside it. I'd probably run it for a few minutes just to check for oil leaks first too. That way, if you do have to fix an oil leak, it will be a little bit easier to take back apart.

The_Josh_Bear said:

Cool torque wrench, I bet the adjustable head angle helped here and there.

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After owning a flex head torque wrench, I don't want to be without one again.