return lines left me stranded

typ4 · Feb 1, 2019

The casting flash on the caps used to be a huge problem with all suppliers.
I know for one Dipaco solved that problem and in selling hundreds of their kits , no issues. They also come with vitons and have always had the good German hose.

Stu Bailey · Feb 4, 2019

I just installed the Delphi kit on my truck a few days ago. She never died on me but her cold starts were hell and even with the block heater it would start pretty rough after sitting too long. She runs great now, starts even better.

gfemling · Feb 4, 2019

The_Josh_Bear said:
(This hose was eliminated by a Ford TSB at some point because of all the air intrusion issues. Early 90's I think?)

Curious on thoughts about doing doing this? My understanding is this return line is to bleed off air/foamy fuel before it enters

gfemling · Feb 4, 2019

...the IP and wondering what would be adverse effects without this picking off the air before entering IP?

The_Josh_Bear · Feb 4, 2019

gfemling said:
Curious on thoughts about doing doing this? My understanding is this return line is to bleed off air/foamy fuel before it enters

I ran without it connected for a year or so. The difference to me was clear: air intrusion is not a problem with that hose plugged.

The byproduct of this is that if you suck up a bunch of air (like too late switching tanks) then ALL the air goes to the IP. It's high speed and downhill that allow you to keep coasting in gear long enough for the air to work out. Otherwise, no dice and you'll be cracking lines on the side of the road.

I've since deleted my stock fuel header and dont have that return line, now that I'm comfortable with it. The best thing is just to switch tanks a little early than a little late.

Also, I have an E pump which makes a big difference when purging air on the side of the road.

gfemling · Feb 4, 2019

Good point. Thanks.

chillman88 · Feb 4, 2019

I've had mine blocked off for a couple years now. I do occasionally have issues with air but that's primarily due to me neglecting other things.

Ideally I would like to hook it back up with a check valve inline but... I'd have to buy a check valve. It's working for me so I'll just leave it plugged.

Ryan Cowper · Feb 17, 2019

I got the Vitons in the mail and I've taken my return lines off of the truck to piece together my new kit from Napa. There are two noticable variances from the new Napa kit to what I removed. First thing, one of my caps is a single stub. No single stubs in the kit. The single was on the driver's front (closest to the radiator). I suppose I could reuse the old one here but I thought I'd ask if there is a different way of routing where I would include the elbow that came in the kit instead of the single that was on there before. The second thing is that my old cap's stubs are routed through the center of the cap while the new stubs are located on one side of the cap. I doubt there's an issue there, just figured I would mention it just in case it's a problem? What do y'all think?

chillman88 · Feb 17, 2019

Well I couldn't really tell you because I just reused my old caps and put new o-rings and rubber hose on.

Sounds like you got a different year kit. Check the size of the stubs that the hose mounts to and make sure they are the same size. As far as I know the center stub kits are for one size line and the offset stub kits are for a different size. I really don't remember which is which but double check them before it's too late.

Ryan Cowper · Feb 17, 2019

They're the same size.

Macrobb · Feb 17, 2019

None of the aftermarket kits I've seen come with single-stubs. So just make a block-off plug or JB weld it shut.

IDIBRONCO · Feb 17, 2019

chillman88 said:
As far as I know the center stub kits are for one size line and the offset stub kits are for a different size.

Usually, the centered stubs are 3/16" while the off set ones are 1/4". There's really no telling what may be on an aftermarket kit though.

hacked89 · Feb 17, 2019

Ryan Cowper said:
I got the Vitons in the mail and I've taken my return lines off of the truck to piece together my new kit from Napa. There are two noticable variances from the new Napa kit to what I removed. First thing, one of my caps is a single stub. No single stubs in the kit. The single was on the driver's front (closest to the radiator). I suppose I could reuse the old one here but I thought I'd ask if there is a different way of routing where I would include the elbow that came in the kit instead of the single that was on there before. The second thing is that my old cap's stubs are routed through the center of the cap while the new stubs are located on one side of the cap. I doubt there's an issue there, just figured I would mention it just in case it's a problem? What do y'all think?

Did your napa kit come with the green clamps or red clamps? In the system it says that both work, but one doesn't properly and I had to figure this out last year. I can go to napa to find you the part # if needed. You want the napa green clamp kit.

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Ryan Cowper · Feb 17, 2019

@hacked89 It was the red clamp kit. The person at Napa who sold it to me owns a 6.9 and a 7.3. Everything seemed to fit as it should. Do you know specifically what makes the red kit not the right one? I drained the batteries trying to purge the air out after the return lines were back on. I'll have to wait till tomorrow to make sure everything works as it should.

Macrobb · Feb 17, 2019

Ryan Cowper said:
@hacked89 It was the red clamp kit. The person at Napa who sold it to me owns a 6.9 and a 7.3. Everything seemed to fit as it should. Do you know specifically what makes the red kit not the right one? I drained the batteries trying to purge the air out after the return lines were back on. I'll have to wait till tomorrow to make sure everything works as it should.

You probably need to replace the lift pump. Bleeding should not take that long. Also, the lift pump should be blocking drainback, but doesn't when the check-valves inside are shot.

return lines left me stranded

typ4

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gfemling

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The_Josh_Bear

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